Replaced the in-tank pump on my 93 940 with Regina ignition. This is a non-turbo car. After reconnecting everything, I have no fuel supply at the fuel pressure regulator.

Verified that the pump is running when the key is turned on, albeit for barely a second. Swapped fuel pump relays and swapped #11 fuse, no difference.

What might I have done wrong?

A little more background. I ordered from Rock Auto and got a Delphi FE0069. This is a tad shorter than the original pump. I'm not sure what it is, but I did not re-install the gizmo on top of the pump and just ran fuel hose directly to the pump outlet.

If that makes a difference, then I'll have to order a different pump. This is what Rock Auto showed as the replacement for the Regina. FE0069 matches up to Volvo 3507436 on other sites, but I did not know that until after the pump arrived, and I had everything disassembled.

Apparently, Volvo 3507736 is the correct length pump, but Rock Auto cross references this to the Delphi FE0069. Specs are very similar to 3507736.

I haven't forgotten about the post. I'm an accountant and am very swamped this week. Plus, I don't have a garage, and in the past few days we've gone from 20 degrees with blowing snow to 50 degrees and rain. I very much need the car on the road, but time is scarce. I'll post back just as soon as I can.

Tonight I was able to confirm the pump is putting out fuel at the tank. Disconnected the outlet line and fitted on a long hose to stretch out to the bumper and into a can. I also confirmed the pump is putting out fuel constantly while cranking. It's a strong, steady flow.

Tomorrow, if it doesn't rain, I will replace the fuel filter and go from there.

I'm thinking the system may need a check valve to keep fuel in the line. That may be part of the problem. In the alternative, a fuel pump override switch on the dash to run the pump longer before trying to crank the engine.

So, for now, no need to go back into the tank.

Posting to mark this problem resolved. I had two problems, one of which turned out to be very elusive. The first and main problem was the fuel pump Rock Auto cross referenced is incorrect. When I type in the correct fuel pump part number, Rock Auto only leads to the one I ordered.

I ordered the correct fuel pump from FCP Euro, and the biggest problem was resolved.

However, a problem persisted with rough idle on cold start, high idle and random stalling, especially when put into gear.

I had installed an after market oil pressure gauge and ran wiring through the firewall near the driver's front quarter panel. Turns out, I bumped the MAP sensor vacuum hose off. For all the searching and troubleshooting I did, somehow I never noticed the hose until today.

At least now I have some good spare parts. Car runs great again!

To carry on from Art's reply below and as Bill noted, jumpering power into fuse 11 will run the fuel pumps in 700s and 900s, whether Regina, LH2.2 or LH2.4.

Fuse 11 is where you can also use a voltmeter to see if the fuel pump relay is properly energizing the circuit. If there's no volts there on either side of the fuse during cranking then it's most likely the FP relay or the CPS (presuming of course the ECU is okay), but in your case here it would most likely be the CPS as the pump is heard running when the ignition is switched on.

As Bill also mentioned, the lighter socket is a good 12 volt source for testing. For 12 volts I more often use a jumper wire with a smaller spade connector on it into the hot side of an unimportant fuse. To run the pump you of course have to figure out which side of the fuse to use, but a good rule of thumb for 700s/900s is to make a bridge and jumper to both sides of the fuse. That way you're sure to catch both the main pump and as well any pre-pump (which you don't have) connected to the opposite side of the fuse. Regina and later (94-95) LH 2.4 only had an in-tank main pump, while earlier LH2.4 had an under-carriage main-pump and an in-tank pre-pump, similar to the earlier LH2.2 and K-Jet systems. If you can hear the pump running while it's jumpered, you can of course try starting the engine.

I haven't had time to think too hard about your problem here, just a few random thoughts once you get past the above testing at fuse 11:
o Guaranteed the fuel tank isn't empty?
o Be aware of a few basic diffences in 900s. Regina and LH2.4 in-tank main pumps (only used in the later models) are different, designed for different pressures. Also that early and later sending units are different, a longer barrel used with the larger tank in the later models.
o As always, the polarity of pump wiring is important, especially if the replacement pump doesn't have a plug and play connector. Unlike some 240 in-tank pre-pumps, in 700s and 900s black is indeed ground as usual. I'd be highly tempted to open a line at the fuel rail and see if there's any flow during the initial second or two of priming when the ignition is switched on. Turning the ignition on and off a few times should almost certainly get fuel up there even if there's somehow no integral check valve in the pump. That would at least verify the pump is running in the right direction and fuel is capable of flowing.
o If the pump is heard running when jumpered and there's either no fuel at the rail or just a trickle then I'd ask if there's any chance a fuel line got kinked or pinched, or the fuel filter is totally plugged, although I find that hard to imagine. More important, I'd wonder if a hose possibly got kocked off the pump during installation. Any chance a hose connection was accidentally opened up while wrestling the fuel sender back into position? Those tanks are a real pain to get senders in and out with the big anti-slosh bucket in the bottom of the tank getting in the way, especially for the longer barrel used with the larger tank, plus access in sedans is much more awkward than wagons.
o After that I'd start diagnosis back at the tank where you've been working. On the later models the fuel lines on the top of the sending unit are quick disconnect which can be useful for a quick final test before having to pull the sending unit -just be absolutely careful of any electrical sparks back there or underneath where fuel and vapours collect.

I'm hoping to see an easy resolution here. How many are betting on a failed CPS and the pump will run fine when jumpered with power? Be a bit of a shame if the original pump was in fact good given all the work to install a new pump in the tank. Failing that, I'm leaning heavily to my accidentally disconnected fuel hose thought as that's where you've been working and I presume the engine was previously running okay not that long ago.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

If you're sure pump buzzes for that initial second, your fuel relay is doing its job. This makes me question what evidence you had leading you to replace the pump. What were the symptoms and your diagnosis steps?

All fuel injection systems depend on knowing the engine is turning to allow sustained fuel pump operation. For safety. If you have no spark, the ECU will not keep the fuel relay energized.

That gizmo? If it is the one I'm thinking of, it smooths out the pulsing of the pump pressure. It doesn't allow or stop the flow. But if you can't hear or feel the pump running when you bypass the fuel relay, sending power directly to the pump, you'll likely be back in the tank.

Maybe the 7/9 FAQs have another suggestion for bypassing the fuel relay in a 940, but this is how I had to do it, using an old relay to get access in that ashtray panel.



Notes on replacing a Regina fuel pump

--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

“Dance like no one is watching; email like it may one day be read aloud in a deposition.”

mine has mostly the same symptoms..although right after the pump replacement I did have no start w old relay.I replaced w a new 1 from IPD,& it started up drove 50 miles w it & let set overnight,,,&then next morning it started right up for 5 mins,,I shut it down& left for 3 hrs & went to start it& nothing,,I put a new harness on from Dave Barton for the relay,,

By the way, Art, I read through your replacement post in the FAQ before tackling the pump job. Very good write up! It was definitely helpful.

Question: Should the pump be energized while the engine is cranking?

pull fuse f-11 and apply +12v to the f-11 socket to run the fuel pump
you can make a jumper from the +12v at the cigar lighter and jump to f-11
have the ignition key in run position.




















=

Just my opinion but I think your biggest suspect right now is the pump. If you have a long jumper you can jump from the battery directly to the pink pump power wire disconnect in the trunk and let the pump run continuous. If the pump is working properly there will be return fuel flowing back into the tank. If it turns out that the pump looks good then that pink wire disconnect is a handy place to connect a volt meter to start diagnosing the electrical side.

Yes, the pump will be energized during cranking IF the computer sees impulses from the crank position sensor. Otherwise you’ll only get the momentary pump priming when you turn on the ignition.

Art, the engine would just about stall rounding sharp corners when the tank was low on gas. Per the FAQ, this is a symptom of a failing fuel pump. To be sure, the old pump has some melted plastic at the outlet and near the wire terminals. No doubt, the pump was overheating.

What prompted me to replace the pump, however, was one day the car ran fine and the next day it ran awful, had a significant amount of hesitation and stalled several times just trying to move it on my property.

My first repair was the pump since I believed based on the above notes it was a problem anyway.

At the moment, the fuel line is disconnected at the FPR, and no fuel comes out. I have not jumpered anything, but that is my next move. As it sits, the pump definitely runs for a second when the key is turned on. I realize that's not likely not enough to get fuel to the FPR on one try.

I did not realize until last night that there is no check valve except in the pump, so I have a hunch that since Rock Auto sent me a slightly different pump it may not have a check valve and fuel could be running back into the tank every time I turn the key off.

But I will try the jumper setup and see if I can at least get fuel to the FPR.

The symptoms do sound like pump failure symptoms.

I know it isn't easy in a 940 to confirm electricity is making it to the pump, but that's what you need to do. The relay's job is to switch that battery voltage to the pump. It won't do that, after that first second, unless the ECU detects ignition pulses, which reveal the engine is turning. Yes, this must happen during cranking, and continue once the motor is started.

I haven't seen a 940 up close for more than a decade. Someone, perhaps Dave who still owns one, can say more about how to verify power or jumper around the fuel relay. As you can see from my posted image, it wasn't nearly as easy for me as it is with a 240.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

“The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing.” -Socrates

Now I got the same problem!/I replaced the pump & screen. It started right up& drove smoothly for ab out 50 miles, drove home & next morning it started right up! I shut it off & 3 hrs later it refused to start!I cant hear the pump run,,

As Bill noted above, jumpering power into fuse 11 will run the fuel pumps in 700s and 900s, whether Regina, LH2.2 or LH2.4. Fuse 11 is where you can also use a voltmeter to see if the fuel pump relay is properly energizing the circuit. As Bill also mentioned, the lighter socket is a good 12 volt source for testing. For 12 volts I more often use a jumper wire with a smaller spade connector on it into the hot side of an unswitched fuse. That way I don't have to worry about having the key in and listening to the damn door chime or always having to lean back out to turn the door switch off. To run the pump you of course have to try both sides of the fuse, but a good rule of thumb for 700s/900s is to make a bridge and jumper to both sides of the fuse. That way you're sure to catch both the main pump and as well any pre-pump (which is on the opposite side of the fuse). Regina and later (94-95) LH 2.4 only had an in-tank main pump, while earlier LH2.4 had an under-carriage main-pump and an in-tank pre-pump, similar to the earlier LH 2.2 and K-Jet. I'm going to re-post this and some additional thoughts as a reply further up in the thread so the OP is sure to see it.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Make sure you didn’t accidentally get a low pressure pump that was intended for a dual pump system. Mistakes by the parts houses or their cataloguing have led to that mistake more than once.

Delphi website says max 58 psi, and original pump is 45 or so.

Is the polarity correct on the wire connections?

Interesting suggestion, Chris. The pump has no markings, so I connected the wires in the same way as the original pump. It did not come with instructions.

whats the fuel poressure?I bet the relay above the battery is bad,,that controls the injectors opening

I have the fuel line disconnected at the fuel pressure regulator. Nothing comes out, so this is pre-injectors.

Did you swap out the RSR?
The RSR supplies +12V to the injectors and the coil of the fuel relay.
If the RSR points open you lose +12V at the fuel pump.

Bill