Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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New wheels and tire size?? 120-130

Ok,,

this is my experience with Amazon wheels/tires. Right now I own a '65 with original 15x4" steel wheels with new Thunderer Mach1 165/80 15 tires and the steering is a breeze.

I recently bought a '64 with 15x6" steel Mopar wheels with Falken 195/65 15 tires and the steering is extremely heavy when driving slow into a parking lot and also parallel parking is a chore. I even put 32/34 lbs into tires and no improvement.

I'm about to buy some 15x5.5" Minilights design and put 185/65 15 tires (thinking Pirelli P4). Does anybody have any experience with this set up (185/65)? I hope that with the thinner 5.5" plus 185 the steering will be lighter.

Any input will help me sort out this dilemma.








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    New wheels and tire size?? 120-130

    Check to see that the adjuster on the steering gearbox isn't screwed down too tight. My '67 was an absolute beast to steer and wouldn't come back to center. taking a turn or two off the adjuster made a world of difference.
    Greg








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      New wheels and tire size?? 120-130

      Yes, the steering box adjustment shouldn't add any stiffness to the steering. Check with front wheels off the ground. Once you get down to just about walking speed the steering will always be heavy. The big original steering wheel does help. You'll regret it if you fit a smaller wheel. Once on the move the steering should be nice and light. Can feel a little too light once you get over about 70mph.








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        New wheels and tire size?? 120-130

        I dont see any need for wider tires or mods myself, i like how it works originally. the 560/15 tires are the same size as used on a early style Volkswagon beetle.

        I had one of those VW's once, a 1974 with a sloppy steering box,, It ws basically thrashed on a farm and should have stayed there..

        the car had issues where I went over about 30 miles an hour the steering would shimmy out of control to the point it was hard to hold the steering wheel. I replaced everything related (it had mcphereson struts) but it wasn't until I changed the steering dampener ( a shock absorber connected to the tie rods) then it stopped the shaking.

        I tried tightening that adjustment up . It didn't bind but I found that when I went over a bridge which happened to have a curve.. When all the bearings fell out I had no steering. I had to intentionally veer towards oncoming traffic to unlock the steering wheel ...since it wasn't turning right, I tried going left..
        and I guess a bearing fell the right way and I was able to avoid a head on. I went very carefully until I got on a sidestreet at which point I could spin the steering wheel with absolutely no effect on steering..

        they are pretty reliable but if you find you have a sloppy steering box I'd check it out a bit more closely.

        a chap near me did a demo and showed us how he had modified his nice p1800 with an electric steering system from a newer car. instead of a power steering pump and hydraulics it uses an electric motor. he said it "transformed the car" . i thought it was interesting, At least that didn't add a bunch of non original looking parts under the hood. I'll keep mine as is, I like the old armstrong system.











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    New wheels and tire size?? 120-130

    Without a doubt the one size smaller tire on a rim 1/2 inch narrower will result in lighter steering---but by how much, is the question. It certainly will not be as light as the 4" rims w/165 tires. You can lighten it up by dialing in as little caster as possible but that will sacrifice straight ahead stability. I ran 185/70/14 Michelins on mid 1960's Mustang GT (14x6) rims on my 1964 122 wagon for years. I never felt that was too heavy - but now, 40 years later, my arms might disagree. I have seriously thought about adding p/s to my 144S which, relatively, has a bit of caster and some negative camber for track use - but that makes it very heavy on the street. A friend has offered the parts for conversion. - Dave







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