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fixing door pockets 120-130 1967

Has anyone successfully remade the vinyl door pockets ? One of mine was just cut out. On the other one, the stitching around the elastic band has unraveled.

Questions:
What is the backing material ? The cards are very hard now and the stitching is pretty fine I think the backing must have been relatively soft when it was new.

What is a good substitute for the elastic band ?

Other than round head paper fastening brads what did you use to attach the pocket panel to the main door card ?

Thanks
Greg








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    fixing door pockets 120-130 1967

    Elastic ribbon in assorted widths is commonly available in better sewing and craft stores. The wider it is, probably the better in a door pocket application, but the hem width will limit what can be accommodated. Consider a fold or double thickness if you think that will work. There's a medium long flat needle with a heart shaped hole in one end that seamstresses use to shuffle it along in the hem. When fastening the ends, make it reasonably taught as they do stretch over time. I've got horridly stretched elastic on the backs of my 940 front seats that have long been in need of such a repair. Advice from others to keep large items from being routinely stored in the pockets is well taken.

    Door card backing is generally hard fibreboard, like peg board without the holes, also used on the backs of furniture like bookcases and dressers, typically painted black one or both sides which offers more moisture protection. Thin plywood would also work. These should be available in better building supply stores, although often thicker than the original. With effort, fibreboard can be slightly molded with steam if needed. Stealing a piece off the back of a free or cheap old bookcase is another source and often thinner than building supply type. In a damp auto environment, having the hard shiny side out would seem best to repel water, but the rough side may not hold glue as well. Using acoustic sealer, I'd want to apply construction grade plastic vapour barrier to the entire surface of the metal door frame, covering all the openings, to act as water protection from what might get in through the window slot, adding flaps on the inside as needed to cover things like speakers. Waterproof paper barriers used to be used for this.
    --
    Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now








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    fixing door pockets 120-130 1967

    You can often just stretch and restitch the rubber bands. Use a good carpet thread. I made some new straps from some lengths of rubber cut from a tyre inner tube. 2 strips per pocket. The attachment rivets can usually be reused. When the elastic gives way, the stitching weakens the rubber, fix them ASAP before the vinyl starts to split and crack. Old damaged cards will often have decent pockets for re use as long as you have the right colour. Don't use the pockets for bottles or similar. Small items and cloths only.








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      fixing door pockets 120-130 1967

      I just used wood paneling and replaced the vinyl glued it on , reused the clips. I put speakers in the doors and eliminated the pockets. made screens with black cloth overtop to match the panels. later I removed the speakers because they are non original, but I left the cloth covered grills.


      I'd rather do something more original looking. for the rubber you might use the strap from a pair of ( new) underwear.. Sounds funny, Yes it does ;-) but it's about the right width and cloth , and stretchy. in the factory they must have used a hot die to imprint the stitching pattern into the vinyl and that would be hard but maybe not impossible to replicate. maybe you could do some sewing machine stitching to the vinyl, maybe sew it to a backer, and then apply it.

      the panels are a sorto fcardboard material , an upholsterer might have a source, I just used wood paneling and that worked fine. contact cemented on the vinyl.

      I covered my dash with leather, made a seam down the middle and sewed two pieces from a long ladies coat, got it wet and stretched it over, when dry I contact cemented it to the original dash. I then dyed it black. I bought an repro dashboard cover thing but it looked too cheap. I still have it put away. I like the leather more. maybe real leather would be ok on the door panels too. If they make repro ones I suspect they are going to be spendy. I could not justify a thousand or so for repro rubber mats either. I used carpet and then threw in volvo mats from a 140.








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    fixing door pockets 120-130 1967

    I made new pockets for my 122 a few years back. If I remember correctly the back panel is the same as the door card material, wrapped with vinyl (& glued on), then I attached it with the flat-head paper thing-a-ma- bobs you mentioned. I used some plain ol' elastic strips from Walmart. I was pretty pleased with the results. I'll be making some for my 1800 in the future.







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