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91 With one intank fuel pump, Regina . I recently posted an issue with a hard start situation and I have come to the conclusion that it may very well be the inbuilt check valve in the fuel pump that is bad thus allowing for fuel drain back. Priming the fuel pump by switching the ignition switch on and off a few times results in a good start. However I am now experiencing another issue and this time it is engine stuttering upon acceleration while moving off. If I floor the accelerator pedal the engine stutters with an occasional back fire and if I back off the pedal a good bit the engine picks up and begins to run well. And while it is running well say at about 30 mph and I floor the pedal it stutters again until I let off then it runs smooth. Over the summer I installed an IPD VX camshaft with an adjustable camshaft sprocket as well. At that time I installed a new timing belt which I retorqued after driving about 600 miles. The car has been running quite well till this new issue. I have not looked into anything as yet so I am just posting to get an idea where to start. Thanks gents
Paul
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I'll run down a list of likely suspects that I see often on my own and friends Volvos when this occurs.
1. Dirty electrodes on the underside of the distributor cap. The carbon builds up as the electrodes wear down and the carbon absorbs moisture. This causes the impedance to go up and misfires occur. Very common after a rain storm or in conditions of high humidity, especially in the fall with lower dew points at night.
2. Spark Plugs have the removable ball nut on their attachment point. A very common issue that I see are that 90% of the spark plugs available for our Volovs have the stupid, removable ball that the boot connector clips onto. These are notorious for loosening up over time and cause sporadic misses and the occasional backfire if the path of least resistance is through another electrode in the distributor and to another spark plug. This issue is more of a problem than dirty spark plugs. Also, the official Volvo plugs are worth every penny, they are impedance matched for the ignition system and resist fouling better than any aftermarket plug I've found. Lots of research has been done by Volvo and IPD and this is not a wheel you need to re-invent. Spend a few extra dollars on the Volvo plugs and reap the benefits that rest of us enjoy.
3. Ignition wires. If they are touching each other or touching a metal object, expect that you will have misses. Spark plugs need to have 1/8" or greater spacing between them and that can be accomplished with split sheath tubing (GM does this on there cars) or plug wire holders and separators, or combinations of both. Also note that most aftermarket plugs wires are garbage and either come apart easily, have poor insulation, or both. The factory equipped sets of plug wires are Bougicourd Type F and they will outlast the car if you don't abuse them. My wife's 1993 240 Classic with +400,000 miles on it is still using the original plug wires, and so is my 780 coupe. (Type F is the heat rating, avoid the C ones, and D is acceptable if it's the only one you can get your hands on.)
4. Small chance but worth mentioning: Some of the ignition coils have the spade connectors really close to the boot. I have seen other faults elsewhere in the ignition system cause high impedance and the spark arcs from the boot at the coil to the ground connection at the coil.
5. Small chance but worth mentioning: I have seen damage to the tone ring on the flex plate that causes drop outs in the signal for the crank position sensor. Example, a tow truck driver puts a recovery hook through the window at the bottom of the bell housing and makes a dent in the tone ring. At idle, the ignition behaves fine. As RPMs increase, the dent goes by too fast for a proper signal to be generated and it looks like the double blank at 45 degrees BTDC that resets the ignition computer to begin a new rotation cycle. This is probably not your problem since your issue is when you accelerate, rather than dropping cylinders above certain RPMs.
6. Check your accordion tube for cracks that are caused by rubbing against the inner fender wall. This is a very common issue. You can replace the hose or tape the old one with electrical tape or PVC wrap tape (use 5 mil thickness).
God bless and let us know how it works out.
Fitz Fitzgerald
P.S. This is my first time back to post a reply since 2014. Sorry for being gone so long, it's good to be back.
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So I made the first investigative attempt by installing another FPR and that did not fix the issue. Next up in the coming days will be as Fitz suggested. I removed the TBelt cover and the belt is still taut and the cam sprocket still tight and in place. The symptom is predictable. When stationary and idling if I advance the throttle there is a hesitation ( stutter if you will , backfires occasionally also). Once pass this "point" the engine will rev smoothly and keeps the revs. It seems to me it occurs when there is a "demand" . I'll follow up for sure , thanks everyone and keep em coming!!!
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Hi,
No one has suggested this but I would clean the throttle body.
The FPR has it’s on port and is on the side so it’s not so influenced by the plate so much but senes the overall flow through the intake.
Check the two ports up on top to be clear of gunk all the way through and the surfaces below them are clean at the top of the throttle plate.
Make hoses are not leaking, especially all the way down to the vapor evaporation canister.
Sometimes that valve on it needs cleaning too in case it’s stuck open.
Make sure that the plate closes all the way shut at the bottom tightly.
Check the throttle plate to barely wiggle open and that the throttle switch click when the motion is seen but not to have it open hardly any at all.
The plate and switch creates a transition period and the computer needs a heads up that it’s about to change flow but really hasn’t started by much.
If this system gets out of adjustment the transition is not smooth.
It doesn’t get out of adjustment easily unless neglected fir a long time or someone tries to tweak the idle speed by playing with the stop screw on the left.
The IAC and the throttle switch have to do it all.
If the car was stalling, it is saying one thing and that’s too lean or too much air.
If it’s that the AMM doesn’t know about and so does the ECU!
The backfiring is the same thing.
This is when, I also get suspicious of a loose clamp or crack in the accordion tube behind the AMM.
Until you get all of these possibilities check off, as good, don’t go blaming a AMM.
You want that to be the last item to do a test replacement with! As there’s no testing it.
Only make sure all the pins are clean and engaging across the group inside the connector.
Good luck looking.
There are others that can help you sift through this stuff, as it’s a common thing, that many times does fall under some simple maintenance care.
Phil
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I bought one spark plug and did the exchange thing. Wasn't the plugs BUT when removing one of the wires it broke leaving the clip part with the crimp on the plug. I got a new set and it wasn't the plug wires coz the same stuttering occurred. So II decided to clean the throttle body and make sure the two vacuum hose inlet on top of the TBody were clean ( sprayed cleaner through both holes ) and they were, so was the throttle body as I had cleaned it a while back. Anyways , as machine man mentioned , I looked at the throttle plate and in the "'resting " position I can see a very slight space at the top and bottom. A heard the the TPS click when I rotated the plate just a tiny bit. I'll see if I can make an adjustment so the plate closes up totally. I take it that is the way it ought to be. The stuttering occurs between 1300 to 1500 rpms ( the transition?) . The car idles perfectly. Once pass the "transition" it will keep a steady rpm with no problem at all. An observation Is when the stuttering occurs and I hold the gas pedal steady it will after a couple seconds begin revving up. An occasional back fire occurs during the stutter. Regarding the two vacuum hoses I put my mouth ( Geez!!) to both and blow and inhale and they both appear not to " leak" . Also during a stutter event I pulled both hoses off the TBody and nothing changed. I'll adjust the TBody plate and report back. One other thing I'll probably do is return the cam timing back to TDC and see what happens.I had installed an IPD variable cam and advanced it to 2 degrees. Then again the car was driving perfectly but we will see. Cheers
Paul
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Hi Paul,
In reading over you information I’m not to sure that you have a transition problem at that high of an RPM.
This is not a stumble “at idle” or incorrect speed the engine is trying to recover from.
When an air balance is off, around the throttle, the ECU knows nothing but what the O2 sensor says has happened in the recent past. It only has that throttle switch.
It never hurts to do maintenance around in there even though it looks so simple.
We are bringing crankcase oils and oddly timed fuel vapors to an incinerating device!
We shouldn’t expect electric motor performances.
If a sticky IAC valve is loosing capability to respond this allows the engine to slip or succumb to say, a transmission loading into drive or reverse.
The transition term is related to the IAC’s own vane being positioned almost closed and the throttle plate making air to go around and through the IAC.
The IACs throat size is fully capable of racing the engine as does so each time the engine is started.
That’s how we know it working properly and is adjusted to its range to give the ECU time to get engaged for more power!
The crack you see at the bottom of the throttle is only one side, there is one top side too!
The top is controlling bleed vacuum to operate the fuel canister valve and/or air-vapors in from the fuel evaporation canister. All at idle.
You are right they don’t affect much, but it’s behind the AMM!
It can and does affect mixtures and we are not allowed to have any extras or we get more and more improper operations.
You are stumbling above idle speed because the breathing of the engine is starting to come up “ on the cam.” This is the beginning of the torque / horsepower band for pulling or doing real work!
IPD is not doing that much magic!
They are just moving the band up or down in the RPMS range. Shifting draw bar torque into brake horsepower and vice versa.
The stumble has little to do with the cam.
It’s a set thing and doesn’t cause stumble to come and go.
I could be wrong but if you can go back to stock Zero, it may not be so radical and might even change a to new RPM range but going away, doubtful.
But you can surprise me, as I’ll can still learn things all the time! (:-)
I would say you having some air volume disruption going on, in which, it goes too lean as it’s becoming a more uncontrollable vacuum leak!
It can start at the AMM hose and ends with the intake valves. Out flow from there is another story on power, but it’s not causing backfiring.
These engines have aged intake gaskets and I would be suspicious that there is a gain of air in order to get speeds up and be too lean.
It explains the backfires that is erratic mixtures of combustion, at speed, that varies consistent flow, causing Variable RPM speeds despite a held steady throttle plate.
You said you were accelerating the engine?
So is this when you hold it steady or are you driving and changing the loads a lot?
Please clarify.
A weak responding FPR can effect powering up, as it’s supposed to provide more enrichment during acceleration more exclusively and then other symptoms.
Keep us posted!
Phil
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Thanks for following up Phil. So today I swapped the relays ...again..still the same issue. I also adjusted the the TPS as per the faqs....still the same issue. Idle is normal. I somehow think you are on the right track as far as an air disruption issue and will probably look into this next. Remember, my 91 is a rex regina so there is no Mass airflow sensor but a temperature sensor and a manifold absolute pressure sensor. When parked , if I push on the gas pedal some ( not floored) but enough to get at least 3-4k rpms the engine would hesitate at the 1300-1500 rpm range...kinda producing a vroom...vroom ...vroom then would sometimes rev passed that like "normal" . Funny thing is a slow and gradual push on the pedal results in a very minor hiccup at those rpms and will keep revving to what the push on the gas pedal commands. As I type I decided to check the hard plastic like vacuum line to the MAP sensor which in my 91 is located just aft of the drivers side strut mount , screwed unto the strut brace. The line is not cracked and holds pressure when I blow into it. Disconnecting it from the manifold results in the engine shutting down. I wonder if the MAP sensor is bad?
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Hi Paul,
Yes you have me pegged right I am a 240 man so I don’t know a lot about those two sensors except that they are trying to achieve the same outcome.
I need to ask about the TPS. Is a clicking type or a potentiometer type used on some of the last 240s. This would be the LH 3.1 system.
Those potentiometers made it on to other car makers designs like Dodge/Chrysler. The potentiometers get worn spots happening!
Chrysler had a hand in the 240’s ignition systems with less than favorable outcomes.
MAP sensors were born with Chrysler being a mid-wife to all that! Ask Caravan owners!
It does sense that manifold!
I’m not familiar with Regina other than knowing the name. It comes up a lot about a coil box having connector problems inside on other European Volvo models.
Most of the times the result made them into a FORD. Found On Road Dead. Not starting!
Those two sensors are fairly static in their readings obtained and output signal since they don’t have moving parts inside to get dirty. In others words, not like a mechanical vane or sail mass meter used on a Honda.
When they don’t start, it kicks a code, but before they die, the running mixtures cause weird performances.
You are describing a certain band of RPM miss of which is more of an “ignition drop out,” especially if it were wet at the time.
A dead spot TPS would dig on an ECU program.
If you are DARN sure your ignition system is “tip top” and then, I will stick with excessive air over fuel or lean mixtures.
This is where the O2 sensor and the ECT are very decisive in making these decisions with the O2 being on the top of the list!
I use an Electronic LED type staging meter by Actron.
It reads out in tenths of a volt increments to check my O2 sensors for laziness or drop outs.
It’s very fast and visual from a distance.
Like an oscilloscope but it’s a dedicated $40 box and its not outdated, yet!
If you have a fast (rapid sampling) digital meter set in the low range it will work too!
This way you watch for the self tuning action or adjustments in real time.
This is what today’s scam, I mean scan tools, do from the software on the newest cars for mega $ in sticker prices.
This has “ham strung” some carmakers right now!
Enjoy your 700 for being simpler in the right places.
That about all the suggesting I can do, as I’m not a 700 fan but you got most of my engine! (:-)
Phil
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It is a click type TPS. Something obviously "broke" . The car was driving fine then the issue started all of a sudden. I'll keep investigating !
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SOLVED...hopefully.
So back in September I posted a non start issue on the first attempt. The discussion led to the fuel pressure regulator as a possible cause so I purchased an inexpensive one to see if indeed that was the problem. Well it was not and I did not bother at all to reinstall the 30 year old original that I took off and I stored it in the trunk since then.
I still need to purchase the one intank fuel pump ( regina ) with the built in check valve , another on the to do list as I am confident that the check valve is faulty. Anyhow I thought to myself , after exhausting all possible solutions , what if the new fpr is faulty? So I reinstalled the old one and surprise surprise !! no more stuttering occurred. Man do I feel good at this point BUT then after a few minutes the idle got rough so I disconnected the vacuum line to the fpr and there it was ...fuel coming out , the tell tale sign of a broken diaphragm. So I will order one and call it a day ...hopefully. The volvo one super expensive..like 150 bucks the delphi is just under 100 both at fcpeuro...any recommendations?
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Hi Paul,
I guess I’m back at you again without any more suggestions.
On Dec. 8th I ended my post with a last second thought about the FPR and my reason for dismissal as a candidate but I did add other symptoms can occur.
They are not so pronounced as an acceleration issue but the FPR does affect cone patterns out of the injectors. With the breathing of the cam “coming on line” this may be more crucial than I give it credit for!
Definitely something to archive in the ole’ memory banks!
In the carburetor days these symptoms were called a flat spot with the jetting or an accelerator pump diaphragm or leverage adjustment.
I believe you were also chasing the idea of fuel pump check valves or the in tank pump being weak.
With all that going on I assumed the FPR or fuel pressure was already looked into.
Guess it was but disregarded by you as well by being reminded by looking at your backup in the trunk. It probably dry out back there in the heat. Not the place to store one, I’d say?
It must getting fairly regular in faltering, that the momentary install, took it away! That is a good to have things work bad consistently, because with intermittent troubles, they are really frustrating!
I sure hope it works out.
Phil
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Phil, I scratched my head on this one for sure . The plugs , wire, rotor and distributor all have about 13k miles on them. Most if not all vacuum hoses were checked a couple months ago and prior to that the coil and ignition assembly. as well . I had a new spare relay and its installation did not help. The throttle body did not need much cleaning at all as I had done so previously. However I accomplished the proper way of adjusting the throttle position so that was a good thing.
The weak components at present are the Crank position sensor ( wrapped up with aluminum foil ) and fuel pump for the failing check valve.I l stared into the engine and asked what the heck went bad so suddenly and then it occurred to me that the only component that i changed was the fuel press regulator and since I had the old one I decided to swap it out. Good thing I did. So I just ordered a fuel pump, CPS and a Fuel pressure regulator. They should arrive next week but I will be away for a few days before I can install them. I'll report back for sure and thanks again for the follow up.
paul
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Good to know that the end of this ordeal is in sight.
I would suggest you replace one part at a time and give it a thorough test before moving on to the next part.
I would start with the FPR as it seems to be most likely causing the problems laid down in this topic.
If the CPS needs aluminium foil, then that seems to be the next logical part to replace.
On your FPR questions regarding original or aftermarket, if I look at my go-to parts webshop (Skandix.de), then only an aftermarket part is still available. Both Bosch and Volvo genuine are listed as "discontinued". I have been using the aftermarket part for about five years now, and it's OK.
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Thank you. I will be out of town for and resume working on the issue then. And yes the FPR is what I plan on installing first. Pump and cps to follow.
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SOLVED , fingers crossed!!
So I installed the new Fuel Pressure regulator ( Delphi model FP10302) sourced from FCPEro ( $96) , yikes!! and I am pleased to say that, so far, the stuttering / hesitation issue appears to be solved. After the install of the FPR , the car started promptly after the usual several primes ( installing the fuel pump is next to resolve the fuel flow back due to a bad built in check valve in the only intank fuel pump ( regina ). After the car warmed up I did several hard acceleration events while in park and engine rev up was normal. Thanks everyone who chimed in to possible causes.Much appreciated.
Fuel pump is next and will report back in the thread I created about the no start on the first attempt.
Cheers
Paul
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UPDATE: here I go again. I am not totally out of the woods yet. I went for a drive and acceleration is sluggish with an occasional stutter BUT the issue is much better than before. Next step...fuel pump...and I will update when the time comes ...cheers
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UPDATE: SOLVED? FINALLY??? Happy New Year fellow participants. Well I had a break from my 740 over the holidays and the last few days I picked up where I left off. I renewed the Bosch fuel filter and same issues but as mentioned before. The stuttering had subsided but the pickup on acceleration was not as before when all was ok. The following day I replaced the only in tank fuel pump on this regina system. Acceleration was now smooth as it was before all the problems that occurred. However the car still would not crank and start on the first attempt. So I installed a brand new Bougicord cps sensor that I acquired over the holidays and I am pleased to say that it appears that I am back to " normal" operations again. Fingers tightly crossed this time fellas. Have a great day and thanks for all your responses.
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I swear I am jinxed. Here I go again...not resolved. Will update
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UPDATE:
I installed four remanufactured fuel injectors and now the ol gal is purring again...BUT...here I go again..I know ..I know...She is still not starting on first attempt. I did install a new fuel pump and filter and one thing I noticed when I installed the injectors is that one of them seem to be leaking , not at the seals but between the upper yellow plastic connector body and the metal body of the injector. I am watching it a for a while and if I have to return it ( lifetime warranty FCPeuro) then I will.
Thanks....again ...for your all your input fellow members.
Paul
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Your call, but if it was my injector I’d return it. Do you have a spare?
Disclaimer: I did not read all of the previous posts. Regarding the failure to start on the first crank, have you checked the condition of your battery cables, (red?) alternator wire and all your engine grounds? Clean the grounds and replace wiring/cables as needed. I did own a car with a similar problem. Or maybe idiosyncrasy…:) My 90 240 never had the hard starting issue but my 95 850 did that sometimes for years with no repercussions. On that car I finally determined it was a tired positive battery cable that was the problem.
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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Weird. Today I started the car and checked for the leak and did not see any. I will continue to monitor.
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Do you have an ignition amplifier on your car..?
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Old problems are back, not starting first attempt like before and stuttering.
Lots of new parts installed . There have been false positive fixes and a recurrence of the issues.
New fuel pump, filter , plug wires dist. cap and rotor, fuel pressure regulator , tps switch coil , ign control module. Some parts I had already and Yes ! I know i have thrown a lot of parts , some , maybe unnecessarily and no fixes so far.
I have not given up though and admittedly other "to do" things around the house have been occupying my time . Will get to it though
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Finally fixed. So, it has been almost a year and just recently I had some time to look at the car again. I am fortunate enough to have another vehicle which I have been using. I went as far as turning in my tag and took insurance off knowing that I would not be able to address the issues for a while. Just to recap it's a 91 740 with rex regina fuel system. This system uses one in tank fuel pump and there isn't a check valve. I searched the internet and found a few hits regarding the situation, and it turned out to be the little device that is connected to the output of the single in tank pump. Some folks refer to this device as an accumulator/ pulsation dampener/ pillow/ mini vintage ford brake master cylinder cover. It is no more than 2 inches by 1 inch and the metallic top has a detent hence looking like a pillow. I removed it, essentially bypassing it with a length of submersible fuel hose that I purchased. (28 bucks for 12 inches) The inner diameter was 5/16 inch. Owners who did this fix reported driving thousands of miles without any issues. No more hesitation, backfiring, and the car starts almost immediately like it did before. It will be my beater car. Prior to problem I installed four new shocks, a new radiator, center bearing, cone bushings and a new cam and cam sprocket from IPD. New crank position sensor too. Time for insurance and getting a new tag now.
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Hi Chuffsy,
Nice post!
A refreshing change from some authors that leave a trail of questions, and no answers on internet threads.
I was surprised that the submersible FI hose was so expensive and wonder why
you ruled out NBR FI hose.
A quick search found this at Amazon:
EVIL ENERGY 5/16 Fuel Hose Line NBR Rubber 30R7 5FT 300PSI @ $14.99
Would you elaborate on the selection of high priced FI hose?
Cheers, Bill
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Hi Bill,
The hose has to be a submersible type. I essentially ruled out any hose that did not say submersible and I did get it from Amazon,
Dayco brand. I wish it were 14 bucks.
Regards Paul
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Hi Paul,
That was fast!
Look here:
https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=870/mode=prod/prd870.htm?msclkid=845d24f9b73f148f16dc479f494d96ea&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP%20Shop%20-%20Catch%20All&utm_term=4588399462064297&utm_content=Catch%20All
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Darn it!! Thats a great site Bill. Next time though. I console myself that my labor is free and hopefully other members will see the Tanks inc site for their needs.
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Hi Paul,
From what I see on-line, this FI hose needs special clamps too.
See here for short lengths, not a foot long. It's HIGH priced stuff.
Maybe you could have used a hunk of steel line in the center with two extra clamps?
What if that hose curls? Is the end weighted to keep it in the bottom of the
tank?
(Ebay search for:)
SUBMERSIBLE SAE J30R10 Fuel Line Hose 5/16" ID x 6" w INJECTION RATED CLAMPS KIT
The magic spec for the submersible FI hose seems to be J30R10.
Bill
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I reused the original clamps that were on the short piece of hose on the sending unit assembly that I removed. They looked the same!!!
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Yes. I have a spare and installed it. I will swap again.
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Hi chuffsy,
Right off the bat I would suspect any of the ignition parts - plugs, wires, rotor and dizzy cap. Look for any wear and check continuity with multimeter. But I wouldn't suspect the coil, its quite robustly built in order to supply 4 plugs, unlike nowadays coil over plug arrangement.
Secondly congrats in installing the VX camshaft. I have one from IPD too. Better than the previous M type. No issues after installing mine, only that I don't have adjustable cam sprocket. I think it may be well to set advance back to zero (default) while you settle the current issue.
Mine 1994 940 NA Bosch.
Amarin.
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I'd second a bad spark plug.
Greg
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Just had this problem. It was the main fuel pump relay. 10 years or older usually needs replacing. I already had two new spare replacement (Sweden brand). They both failed due to both being a 9 volt switch circuit. Overheated. Found this out by opening the relay housing. Don't purchase any cheap brands. 👍
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I you still have the original Volvo relay, don't replace it, just resolder it.
9 out of 10 times a malfunction is caused by cracked solder joints.
Here's what I found on mine:
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That is a good suggestion , i will look into that as well
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Just found out that my #1 fuse socket was all burnt and the 25/amp fuse was melted but, not completely blown. Must be why my fuel pump relay was getting hot and browning at the spade prong. I'm cleaning up the fuse plug and changing the fuse to 30 amp. The wiring to the fuse is heavy gauge and shouldn't be a problem increasing from 25amp to 30amp. Feed back tomorrow after I receive a new fuel relay. Check your fuse.and plug for overheating.
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Just fixed my problem. Replaced my AMM . Symptoms were that it ran fine and then the engine would go into... "limp home mode"...
Your 740 sound like the same problem.
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mmm, don't think there is an AMM. I think there is a Mass Air Flow sensor in my Regina. I'll clean that for sure and check the wiring also..tks
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So I just did a preliminary look at the distributor cap , wires , ignition coil and igniter assembly. I did not see anything out of the ordinary with the cap and electrode areas , maybe a slight pitting of the rotor brush which I cleaned up. The plug wires are bougicords silicone E type and are fairly new. I had a spare ign assembly that I installed just because but that did not change anything at all. One thing I noticed with the stuttering and hesitation is that it occurs at approximately 1500 rpms and once past this the vehicle will accelerate smoothly to a point but then seems to bog down a bit at the higher rpms , say about 4000 or so. If in drive at 1500 rpms and i select a lower gear which makes the rpms higher the stuttering/hesitation goes away.
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Thanks for the suggestions gents. Keep em coming. I will have to deal with this in a few. Luckily I have another daily driver and at the moment a bathroom reno is taking all my time
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