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I bought a 2006 xc70 about a month ago so that I could give the 940 a break from winter duties and because it only cost me a thousand dollars--Canadian! About three hundred U.S. I understand.
Regardless, it has an 'error message' screen that sometimes yells at me that the oil pressure is low and that I should stop the engine. This only happens when stopped at an intersection and the revs intermittently drop below a thousand rpm. I get rid of the message by slightly raising the rpm.
I have been researching the issue on the xc70 site and oil sludge has emerged as a possible culprit and that moving from regular oil to synthetic will gradually remove the sludge and perhaps get rid of the error message.
What are your thoughts on using synthetic oil? And if it is a good idea, what would be a good replacement oil for an xc70---or a 940 for that matter?
p.s. 940 is running well. I hope to be back in her in the spring.
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You've gotten a lot of good suggestions regarding the oil pressure light coming on. Let me add an economical one.
One of my 2 850's had an oil pressure light coming on intermittently. It was a 93 and was a little banged up but I too got it at a good price. No maintenance records... First, it developed ticking lifters. Researched that and discovered that it could be just a sludge problem. It was a grandma's car so I knew it probably needed a long highway trip and an Italian tune-up. Then the oil pressure light started coming on intermittently. Not wanting to invest a fortune into that car, I rolled the dice and added a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to cheap, fresh engine oil and ran it for 500 miles. Then changed the oil and filter. Voila! The ticking gradually disappeared and the light stayed off. Boy, did I feel lucky that day....:)
BTW - The 2006 and 2007's are the best years for the XC70. You might have yourself a really nice car for cheap if you resolve what is probably a sludge problem.
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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Did you have to remove the skid plate to change the oil? This little maneuvre by the local cheap oil change boys is going to cost me I am sorry to say.
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I'm with the Jaywalker on this one. You could easily just ditch the underbody cover. I bought my V70, a P2 car like yours, without one. Neither the car or I suffered for it.
-Will
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XC60 / Odyssey
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Is the skid plate (engine protector) essential for your car? IMHO, if it were my car, based on what you paid for it I wouldn't replace it unless it is essential for the car. My high mileage 2002 VW Passat's plate kept on getting dinged up and also needed to be removed to access the drain plug. Finally, I got fed up and tossed it as it was hanging on by a thread. Car was no worse for wear. Still running well at 242,000 miles when I sold it.
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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The "under the motor" panel can hardly be called a "skid plate". It's actually a splash guard -- keeping water off the drive belts and out of the alternator.-Dave
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I agree that splash guard is a better term for the part. I am having the underside looked at tomorrow and will make a decision based on what it would cost me to have the various bolts excised and replaced. I am getting the oil filter changed also in the search to find what will stop the 'low oil pressure' comment from appearing in what I call the error message screen.
The car generally runs well with the occasional hiccup when it seems to miss steadily for a period of time. Lovely heater on it I have to say! I find it a little large but otherwise a pretty nice vehicle to drive.
Bob
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Dear muskox37,
Hope you're well. The splash shield may also help to direct airflow under the engine, i.e., towards the oil/pan and/or transmission pan.
If the splash shield were truly not needed, it would not be there. Car-makers grudge every penny or fraction thereof.
Thus, I'd have the splash guard replaced and ask the "quick oil change" place to cover the cost. Their technicians should know that if they can't access an oil drain plug - without doing damage - they should use an oil extractor, which uses vacuum to remove the old oil, via the dipstick's tube.
If the engine misses, the first thing to do is to replace the spark plugs. If that doesn't improve matters, then inspect the wiring to the ignition coils. I believe that the XC70 - like the 960 models - has a separate coil for each cylinder.
Use an aerosol corrosion-remover (e.g., Deoxit, or similar) on the coil contacts with each spark plug and on the wiring harness connectors for each coil. If that doesn't end the "misses", the haven the coils tested. One or more may be "on the way out".
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Hello again Spook,
My local mechanic put the car on the hoist today and we had a look at the damage. I was being a little unfair to the folks who removed the splash guard. Turns out there was only one bolt broken. The others were all removed except for two of them and one of them was still there because the panel had been torn away from it. The mechanic managed to get that bolt loose and he gave me the broken plastic plug. I am going to clean the panel and repair it with plastic rivets and get it back into place.
Mechanic suggested I use a plastic tie to connect the panel to the broken stud hole instead of going to the trouble of removing the stud. He also supplied me with a set of bolts for when I return to get the oil filter installed. I plan to run for a month with the current oil and then I will get the filter installed and new oil put in and the panel put back in place.
The missing comes and goes as do the error messages about low oil pressure and low coolant level. I have put in coolant about three times now and there is nothing showing on the driveway so I assume it is being absorbed into the system. The message comes and goes but the temperature gauge stays steady in the middle of its dial and I rely on that to determine that the engine is not overheating. No steaming up either.
This car has probably been off the road for about five years now from whats I can determine from the previous owner and its general condition.
Thanks again for your valuable input. Much appreciated.
muskox37
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Dear muskox37,
Hope you're well and stay so. " I have put in coolant about three times now and there is nothing showing on the driveway so I assume it is being absorbed into the system."
Coolant does not get "absorbed into the system". If there's a pin-hole leak in a hose, the coolant will spray or dribble-out under pressure. It may evaporate promptly. So, coolant disappears, but does not land on the drive-way.
Inspect all coolant hoses carefully. As the car has been little used for several years, it might be a good idea to replace all hoses (radiator and heater core). If the leakage stops, then that problem is solved. Hoses usually fail from the inside, first. Rubber deteriorates with time and heat. So, a brand new hose - that is 10 years old - is at or past the end of its service life.
Does the oil look "milky", i.e., a medium-to-dark brown rather than black? If the oil is other than clear or black, that's usually a sign of oil and coolant mixing, which - in turn - is a sign of head-gasket failure.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Hello Spook,
I would describe the oil colour on the dipstick now as a tan brown and this after only a few days and miles driven and no change of filter. Prior to the change I remember it as being well used but not black.
Yesterday there was coolant at an appropriate level but I am still getting the low coolant warning.
I have ordered a scanner and am considering doing the spark plug change you recommended as a first step towards solving the engine miss. Quite a job on these cars! I have been looking over the various videos on offer.
I will keep in mind your warnings about hose leaks, etc., but am going after the spark plugs first. I will also be able to get a look at the coils while I am in there.
muskox37
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So we're clear, we're talking milky tan brown oil, not nice honey brown tan oil, right?
If so then yes, a head gasket is in order. It sounds like yours could be a good car worth the expense of a head gasket job. If you have doubts, I'll share my experience with a quick fix. Had an '01 V70 2.4T, a similar light-pressure turbo arrangement to yours, started pushing combustion gasses into the coolant at 267K miles while on a road trip. A bottle of Blue Devil head gasket sealer got me, white knuckled, the 370 miles home. A few hundred miles later the water pump started leaking. I needed a "reliable car" so I sold it.
If no, please be aware that these cars are prone to leak coolant at the o-ring connections of the heater hoses, between the heater core and the firewall penetration. Only a matter of time. Not always apparent as the thickly padded carpet and floormats hide it well.
PS: The spark plugs are a pretty easy job, just takes a bit of time to remove all the stuff to get to them. A good torx driver set helps and I suggest a little anti-seize on the top cover screws during reassembly.
Best of luck,
Will
--
XC60 / Odyssey
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I would describe the colour more as 'honey brown tan' than as 'milky brown tan'. The car has resumed its earlier posture and now runs well and with good power and with little or no evident exhaust plume. And there is good level of the coolant when I check it. It is a conundrum.
BUT I have not driven it for more than a few kilometres in the last few days. I will give it a good run today to see if the oil pressure warning and/or the low coolant warnings appear and to see if the persistent miss reappears.
Despite Dave's commentary I am not inclined to think I have a leaking head gasket--not yet at least. I intend to get the oil changed and to have an oil filter installed within the span of a couple of weeks.
I suspect the colour of the oil is relative to the continuing existence of some of the previous oil. I intend to put synthetic oil in when I get the job done.
If the miss reappears big time I will follow Spook's directions and start by changing the plugs. Followed by the coils, etc. whatever is required.
Thanks for your input. Much appreciated.
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Ahh, good news that.
The coolant level sensor is a truly wonderful feature. All cars should be equipped. Better to learn about a leak via low level rather than an overheating engine.
For the coolant loss, please do check the carpets for wetness. Also, while they're under there for the oil change, have the tech peek about the front (passenger side) of the engine for drips of coolant (worn water pump). Another potential leak point is the expansion tank itself if the plastic has gotten brittle cracks can form.
Another thing, while a filter cartridge does add cost to the oil change, they are quite easy to swap and changing it will eliminate any possibility that it might be contributing to the low oil pressure issues.
--
XC60 / Odyssey
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Tan brown oil, as in a hint of milky colour, is not good news. Needing a new head gasket is not at all the end of the world for an otherwise good car. You got such a good deal on it that a few extra dollars to put it right is likely justifed. For a minor leak, mystery missing coolant such as you describe can easily be going out the tailpipe without steam as evidence.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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Hi Dave,
It does blow out a considerable white exhaust stream when cold. Could well be that I have a head gasket issue.
A few days ago I could not drive it into town [Nanaimo] because it was missing so bad. I had to take the 940! Today I drove it and it ran perfectly with full power. But it was just a short run to the supermarket. I will give it a longer run later today to see if the miss returns.
Wondering if there is a connection between the miss and the tan coloured oil and the apparent coolant loss.
Bob
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Hi,
Yep!
The worst cylinder affected will have the cleanest spark plug!
No deposits, as in, it will be Steam cleaned and so will be the piston top!
Phil
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Phil, I thought it interesting that you brought up the "clean piston and spark plug" being related to a coolant loss issue because there is a current thread on the Board where the poster claims that not to be true. Personally, I've seen such evidence many times. - Dave
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Yes, it was I who wrote in this very thread that my experience was the opposite of what is usually claimed.
I get the steam cleaning idea, and perhaps there were specific circumstances in my case that I'm not aware of that may have contributed to my experience.
I'll share the whole story, for those who are interested:
In April 2018 I traded in my first 245 that I drove for almost 12 years and roughly 100,000 km. 245 #2 was the exact same car, right down to the colour, interior, trim level, engine etc. etc. and only some 800 or so further up in the VIN serial no part.
Despite being exactly the same, it drove like it was a very different vehicle. Probably mostly due to mods to the suspension.
One niggling problem was a slight loss of coolant that I already drescribed, inculding the steam cleaning idea. But contrary to what I expected to find, #1, #3 and #4 cylinder looked remarkably clean for an engine with about 250,000 km on the odometer. But #2 cylinder had some carbon deposits on top if the piston.
Near the same cylinder, there was a small oil leak from the head gasket of the oil gallery to the outside of the engine. I was told this was not actually that uncommon on these engines as the gasket is rather narrow in that spot.
About a year after purchase, an oil film started to appear on the coolant and only then did I take it into a shop for repair.
I was shown the discarded cylinder head by the shop that repaired the engine, and from the differences in discolouration of the combustian chambers could I see that it was mine and not some other head they had lying around.
It was #2 cylinder that leaked coolant into the cylinder, and of all cyilinders, this was the dirtiest, hence my reservations towards the steam cleaning idea.
My theory is that the small coolant ingress did something to the combustion process on that cylinder, perhaps lower the combustion temperature a little leading to more deposits.
Why the other three cylinders looked so clean is beyond me. I had already noticed before I was aware of head gasket problems that the spark plug from #1 cylinder looked relatively normal at the change interval (of 20,000 km). #2's looked darker but #3 and #4 spark plugs looked too light, the isolator noses didn't seem to tan but appeared to show slightly hot or lean running.
After the head and head gasket were replaced, I got about 1 km per litre of fuel better mileage (~2.3 mpg better). Spark plugs now all show a normal and uniform discolouration.
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I had one engine where this happened, I can’t remember which one, possibly my old 144GL or 122S. I vividly remember one cylinder was totally spotless right to the depths of the spark plug, almost made you wish it had happened to all cylinders. It was a very small leak and happened over a period of time with the engine running only a bit rough. I remember the prime evidence was the exhaust vapour at cold startup taking longer and longer to go away, as well as a mystery slow coolant loss, just enough to make you not worry, like it was a bad rad cap, which is probably what I replaced first and explains why I had an old spare rad cap in a junk box until not that many years ago.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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Hi Dave,
Yes I thought I would throw that little tidbit into the conversation as it’s a fact I learned a long time ago on my first new four wheeled vehicle I bought together with my new wife.
It was a Ford Truck with loose heads from the factory! I blame it on a shift change or a late employee back from a break and the line moved on!
12,000 mile warranty and a tear down at 19,000.
Never a Ford again!
I still have the truck, up on jacks for the last 15 years inside, with a thrown timing chain @180,000 and a weak cylinder the whole time from that steam cleaning!
I don’t like that truck as much now!
My marriage certificate was better than their warranty at 47 years!
We both keep each other jacked up! (:-)
Phil
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There's little doubt your head gasket is gone, and yes it's likely all related, possibly even the excessive sludge likely causing oil pressure problems. I wouldn't chance taking it the 50km to Nanaimo even if it wasn't missing as it could blow out further at highway speed which you will soon know when you see a mushroom cloud out the exhaust. I can't remember if you've got a good indie where you are with enough Volvo experience to do the job properly and efficiently. Maybe call Chapman down in Nanaimo and see who they know up in your area who orders parts through them that they would trust. At the same time, you should talk to your mechanic about checking the oil pan drain plug for sludge on the end and dropping the pan for a proper cleaning if needed.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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I agree with Dave. A new head gasket, if not out of your budget, might be a worthwhile investment if the rest of the car is solid.
The good news is that since the 5 cylinder engine in your car has an aluminum head and block there is minimal chance that the head is warped.
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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There's also the possibility of a failing head gasket (or worse) that leaks coolant into a cylinder as I found out first hand on my 245.
Coolant would disappear slowly without a trace. I could not find any leak, so I started to suspect the head gasket. At one point in time I inserted an endoscope type camera through the plug holes to have a look at the pistons. I had read that coolant leaking into a cylinder would "steam clean" the piston.
Well, I found three remarkably clean pistons and one with the carbon deposits you would expect for a high mileage engine.
It wasn't the head gasket, though, it was worse. A PO had neglected the engine in such a way that the coolant channels had corroded and "eaten away" at the surface of the cylinder head under the gasket. Finally this "ate" its way into a cylinder. The head needed to be replaced.
Turned out that the "dirty" cylinder was actually the one in which the coolant had leaked. In hindsight I should have seen this coming as the spark plug from the affected cylinder always looked darker than the others at the maintenance interval.
"Steam cleaning" by a leaky head gasket? IMHO that's an urban myth that my experience debunked.
The engine ran fine right until the day I was going to take it to the shop for repair. Then it would not start as the starter motor could only manage a part turn before it bogged down.
'Water in a cylinder' was my first thought as it does not compress like air.
I took out the plug of the affected cylinder, which at that time I had already guessed, and ran the starter motor for a few seconds (with fuel pump fuse pulled). Sure enough, it spewed out a few clouds of coolant through the hole. I then put the spark plug back and drove to the shop without problems.
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May the Volvo gods keep me from your experience! I note the coolant is now showing when I check it in the morning. I thought that maybe the heater had not filled the first time around, etc. butI will check it again today.
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It's nice to be able to read an innocent ethnic remark and not alot of hand ringing after. This is such a safe space!
--
89 240 wagon, 94 940, 300K, 94 940, 141K
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Agreed about being a relatively safe place here. Although some might take offense with the context as it is often used, people would perhaps not be so sensitive if they bothered to look up the original meaning. The term Italian tuneup originates from Ferrari mechanics who would drive cars around a race track several times after a tune up to get the engine hot enough and subsequently burn off the carbon. That's a perfectly intelligent and legitimate way to deal with such issues.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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Whether or not anyone gets offended by the the expression, it is certainly a "thing". I worked for a time as a mechanics helper at a MB dealership in 1968. I was tutored by 2 German born master technicians. They taught me road test procedure after a tune-up which included a full throttle run for 1.5 miles (closest road with no cross streets or traffic lights--sadly not true these days). My good friend Gert, a Dane and Volvo trained tech, relates their road test - an 8 mile run on a highway, foot to the floor in 3rd gear (544,122 early 140 era). By the end of the return leg the car would typically run 8 mph faster. - Dave
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Thanks! Guess I'm showing my age. It is an expression I grew up with. Probably lots of other BBers did as well. Certainly no offense is intended. As a community we seem free to express ourselves. We must feel safe here...:)
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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Don't ignore the possibility of a badly clogged oil filter with a now stuck bypass valve causing the low pressure warning. Oil maintenance by the PO has likely been badly neglected. Using dyno rather than synthetic oil compounds the problem. Do as others like Spook suggest, one or two oil changes. If that doesn't rectify the problem then you'll have to consider having the oil pan dropped to inspect for sludge and clean the pickup tube.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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Good morning, Dave
The local garage reports that my head gasket is blown for sure. They performed a coolant leak or consumption-performed CO2 test to arrive at this conclusion.
They also found a leak at the oil pressure sensor itself and they recommend replacement. I will have to find it first!
And I watched a video by Robert DIY about separating the cam cover from the head and he used a special cylinder head plier tool to accomplish this. I had read that it was possible to knock the cover off using a soft nosed hammer but I think this tool would be a better option. But it is damnably expensive and I will probably only use it once unless I go into the business of repairing these xc70s.
Before I order it do you have any options?
Bob
p.s. hate coming to you on xc70s on the 900 site. It is running like a clock.
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Dear muskox37,
Hope you're well. I recall reading posts as to the camshaft covers on the six-cylinder engines used in 960s, wherein it was stated that the mutli-section heads had camshaft covers that were mated to the head. So, if a camshaft cover were ruined (or lost), it meant real problems finding a replacement. These covers had "gaskets" made of a liquid, that solidified into gasket.
I do not know if the XC70 head is of the same design. If so, then I'd get the special tool, to avoid risk of ruining the cover.
Hope this helps.
Happy Holidays!!!
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Morning Dave,
I priced a gasket set for the xc70 at Chapman's and was quoted a price over five hundred dollars. That combined with the need for new head bolts and a timing belt brings the total to over eleve hundred dollars to replace a head gasket. Is this kosher?
I was anticipating somewhere around five hundred for the various gaskets, etc., needed to replace a head gasket but this figure has forced me to consider scrapping the car instead. It is into me for two thousand right now, given the new windshield [$700] and front right suspension coil [$320]. Not to mention the LH tail light [$100]. It's not a lot but I do wonder if I am throwing good money after bad at this point. It still needs major brake work even if I do get the engine running properly.
What do you think of Chapman's estimate? Is there a good alternative?
Bob
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That’s about what I’d expect to pay both at Chapman and my other indie. Their shop rate is less than dealer and they've done the job many times before so know exactly what's involved to give you both a good estimate and do a proper job. Whether it’s worth investing more money in is a question I can’t answer. Brakes are a wear item, including calipers, so should be budgeted as regular maintenance. When you buy a used car there is often catch up maintenance needed.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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Hello Dave,
Will do. I didn't know this car has a skid plate beneath the engine and that it has to be removed to access the oil drain plug. I took it to a local Great Canadian Oil Change outfit, thinking I could get a cheap change [no filter, etc.] that would be a predecessor to a real change at my local mechanic's place a month from now. I also plan to run Sea Foam cleaner through the engine in an effort to clean it up.
So guess what. They broke and otherwise damaged most of the bolts holding the skid plate onto the bottom of the car because they were rusted in place. They also rounded off the drain plug and suggested I use Lordco to get a replacement. . . and they charged me a hundred for the work. The skid plate now rests in the cargo compartment of the car.
Now I face a charge to have it restored to its proper place by the mechanic who replaced the broken suspension coil last week.
Not to mention some concern that the bolts were so rusted in place. When was an oil change last performed on the car I am forced to consider.
Don't cheap out. When will I ever learn.
Bob
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At $1000CDN purchase price I suspect your new XC70 hasn't led the most serene and coddled life and probably hasn't had all of the prescribed synthetic oil changes.
The red block in your 940 can tolerate deferred maintenance much better than a turbocharged white block of an XC70. In white blocks the PCV system suffers, oil is burned and the level goes low.
Don't despair, but please do some maintenance to keep all the seals in their places and the bearings and turbo supplied with oil.
- Do a glove test on the oil filer to test the state of the PCV system, replace as necessary.
- Use synthetic oil in anything with a turbo. They're all good these days, pick your favorite flavor. I'm cheap so would buy whatever's cheap (currently I stock up on Mobil 1 when it goes on sale at Costco - the life partner's XC60 burns it like it's going out of style) Also be prepared to check the level often and top up as there's a good chance it's burning oil.
And enjoy the XC70! They're great, safe, and super comfortable cars!
-Will
--
XC60 / Odyssey
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Dear muskox37,
Hope you're well and stay so. C$1,000 = US$791.00. If the oil pressure sensor signal "low pressure" at idle, the first thing to do is to check the oil level, if there's a dipstick. The 2005 XC70 had a dipstick. My version of Volvo VADIS - a superseded dealer parts/service database - does not cover the 2006 models.
If the dipstick shows "low oil", top-up to the mark on the dipstick. If the "low oil pressure" warning light does not come on, you've found and solved the problem.
If the "low oil pressure" warning light continues to come on, when the car idles, that a sign of: (a) a weak/failing oil pump (very unusual) or (b) bearing damage (also unusual, unless basic maintenance - timely oil changes - was not done; or (c) as you noted, oil system sludge that might result from the car being used for short trips, and then allowed to sit, or from the engine being turned-off too quickly, without allowing the turbo to "spool down".
If the car seems to have been well-cared-for, then one can probably exclude neglected maintenance, e.g., running for long periods with dirty oil, which can damage bearings.
Thus, I'd change the oil using a full-synthetic oil, and drive for 1,500 Km. If the oil is a deep, dense black. I'd change the oil right then, and drive another 1,500 Km. If the oil then looks only slightly "dirty", you've flushed-out most of the crud.
If, after these oil "flushes", the "low oil pressure" warning light comes on, there's likely been some bearing damage.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully
Spook
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i HAD A #4 CYL W CLOGGED RINGS..FOLLOWED MY MECHANICS ADVICE USEDA PINT OF KEROSENE,,DROVE SLOW FOR 30 MINUTES , DID A FULL DRAIN OVERNIGHT NEW FILTER & QTS OF NAPA SYN & IT FREED UP THOSE RINGS!!WAY SMOOTHER &WENT 6 MOS BEFORE IT NEEDED ANYMORE,,
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Add a bottle/can of "Seafoam" to your engine oil around 100 miles before thenext oil change. How regularly did the previous owner change the oil filter ?
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The mechanic's advice is true. You need something lighter to clean/dissolve away the sludge NOT synthetic oil. Marvel Mystery Oil, kerosene, ATF, straight 20 weight oil have been used for this purpose. Synthetic oil is supposed to prevent sludge but look inside those German engines with extended oil change interval, most have sludge from synthetic oil.
How is this so? This is because of marketing gimmick. Group III hydrocracked oil (ie refined mineral oil) is considered as synthetic oil nowdays. Remember the infamous lawsuit Castrol vs Mobil IIRC long time ago? Many owners are not familiar with true synthetics like oils from Group IV (eg Amsoil) and Group V (eg Motul). And these oils are hard to get by unless you know the dealers.
To OP:
Intermittent check oil light warrants through engine check. I'd stop using the car and let the mechanic pull down the pan to check for sludge then clean it afterwards. The oil pickup tube must be checked at the inlet strainer. Rarely oil starvation is caused by bad oil filter as most cases due to some blockage at oil pickup tube. Continue to use the car at own risk. Nowdays modern Volvos have so much noise absorption pads and anti-vibration device that you may think the engine runs smooth, actually its eating its parts inside.
Amarin.
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Could you please elaborate on some of your comments?
E.g. what actually is the difference between synthetic oil and "true" synthetic oils?
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An engine oil is made from base oil plus additives eg anti-foam, anti-wear (zinc, calcium), VI improver, etc.
A true synthetic oil is 100% made in the laboratory ie. not from any crude oil. The base oil molecules are uniform thus enhances heat transfer and oil flow.
Any mineral oil (firstly made from crude oil) that underwent more refinement process so that in the end most of its base oil molecules are uniform could also be considered having synthetic properties. Nowadays this could be legally labelled and sold as synthetic, because now both "true" and "refined mineral" base oils almost have the same properties.
Its just a way to make more money for the oil companies. IIRC Castrol is the one that wanted to "push" this agenda of selling refined mineral oil as synthetic. Mobil had lost in that court battle. Even Mobil nowadays won't admit if they had started to follow suit Castrol's practice ie. using "refined minerals" in their synthetic products. But so far Mobil users have no complaints.
Anyway you could have a better read on the internet.
Amarin
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“ A true synthetic oil is 100% made in the laboratory ie. not from any crude oil.”
Please explain what it made from, if not from crude oil.
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The link below should be helpful:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil
Amarin.
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Ok thanks for the link.
If I understand things correctly, Castrol won the case based on the fact that the group III base oil was changed so much that it specified as synthetic.
Even the respected API went along and removed the term "synthetic" from the documentation. Basically admitting that "full synthetic" is indeed a marketing tactic that doesn't reflect actual quality.
Personally, for me that would mean that I would be comfortable using any oil that performs to API standards. In fact, I've used the cheapest oil in my redblock that lots of people tell me to steer clear from for years and years and years, and it is still running fine with good compression and no sludge build up. I just adhere to Volvo's 15,000 km (9,322 mi) interval as I think THAT is the most important factor here (not marketing).
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Synthetic oil is recommended for the Volvo 5 and 6 cylinder engines. Helps prevent sludge build up in the PCV system. Can't say for sure, but Volvo probably recommends its use in the 2006 engines. That is certainly the case with their newer engines.
Check with Volvo to see which oil they recommend. Bet Klaus C knows!
With your 940, not as critical but worth considering for the same reason. Synthetic is more expensive but the trade-off is that the oil change intervals are longer with synthetic.
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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Its recommended for All engines. As long as you want that engine to last!! My 940 engine is over 300,000 Is runs nice & smooth!
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