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Hi,
“ Whadda 'ya say ??”.
You asked, Hmmm 🤔 probably too much already! (:-)
I don’t have a lot of experience in working on differentials so I don’t quite get your meaning of rotating the driveshaft “ up and back”?
I would say a rotational turn in a clockwise motion and then in counterclockwise motion to find backlash between the pinion and ring gears.
If you have roaring then the ring and spider gear shimming might need to be reset to a new wear pattern. You are not talking this stuff!
If a backlash specification is excessive, the clunk you are getting will also be accompanied with a metallic clank sound! A sharp metal against metal clang and tinny ringing of something hollow!
The hollow sound is similar to a snare ring of a tambourine? Just trying to equate, sorry!
The pinion gear is held in place by a crush sleeve on that input shaft.
If a seal has been replaced sometimes a crush sleeve may gotten done too. In that case it may have not been torqued down properly and can be one cause of a clunk.
It takes a very large (300 foot lbs.) torque wrench to wind that puppy down to a specification on some light truck rear ends. A passenger car might be a little less, but just as important!
Another clunk can be of the whole axle, or movement there of, is more likely to be what you are hearing or feeling in the seat of your pants! (:-) Starting with two radial support anti-torque rods, going forward and aft, will have four rubber bushings!
Be super suspicious of them if you can twist the rods on their bushings a lot by your bare hands. They need to be a very firm and achieving a solid mounting.
In bad cases, a clunk can come from them but then, no clang!
The trailing arms under the rear axle also use rubber and are known to go bad.
If you drive through a driveway approach at an angle and twist the rear axle higher and lower from different directions clunk or pop you have bad bushings someplace.
There are six so far and eight all together.
I have never heard of issues with the Panhard tracking rod for making clunks or for them going bad for that matter?
But I’m sure there can be cases, of it, as their rubbers wouldn’t be offered for replacements.
As far as the oil NOT getting replaced that is NOT as a big of a deal as one would think!
In the old days, on domestic vehicles, it was normal to never change the oil but only add some!
Nothing or a few ounces or less! Then charge the customer for a half to one full pint.
They don’t know squat!
It too was done for extra profit back then! Shysters started life with everyone else!
One would do a replacement if the rear end ever became submerged above the top air vent cap or the axles ends while launching a boat!
The oil never wears out but if changing is desirable due to condensation worries it can cause seals to leak, so consequently in those days of having a cars only going around 120,000 in its life time and after an engine rebuild!
Rear ends didn’t get changed but only serviced, but remember cars got their oil changed in 3,000 mile intervals too!
Today that’s sinful!
It’s interesting that you have changed the oil twice!
That must mean that your rear end is now as clean inside, as if you had used Charmin tissue!
(:-). Differential oil sure does have a bear of a stink!
Phil
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