I was unable to tweak any of the components and get the window to go up as it should.

It appeared that it was a bit crooked in it's travel. Almost like the two tracks were too far apart. I tried placing some material between the window frame and the track piece without success. I had done that on the driver's front window in the past to solve the common problem of the glass not closing the gap at the top.

I did have a mechanism from a door I had removed from a low mileage parts car years ago. I put it in and it works fine now.

I wish I could figure out why the old mechanism failed to raise the window. The only thing that I can find different between the two mechanisms is the the moveable arm on the old mechanism was sloppier.

I don't know how that piece that connects the two arms is made or installed. If I could have tightened those up it might have been the fix.

Randy


--
Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal

Those symptoms sound familiar. My drivers window made some ominous sounds
when reaching the bottom. I heard a loud snap as I I tried to close the
window. After that it wouldn't raise, and only went down. The metal bracket
in the regulator (Volvo 3528565) snapped off.

I just pulled the old motor apart and it appears that the brushes are OK,
and I understand that the limit switch function is done with a thermal cutout
That's in series with the motor winding- draw too much current it opens, then resets.
Maybe someone knows about the cutout device?
You can see it on the brush assembly.



The three T-30 screws holding the bracket to the motor were not tight as expected,
and the roller in the short regulator track was binding some.
Maybe the window regulators need some pro-active lube every 20 years or so
as part of the service schedule? Any binds in the motor or works are a problem.

Dunno if you can find a motor- that's my pick for whats wrong.



The options for regulators are slim, many places on back order.
I used the universal regulator from Partsgeek. It has a husky metal bracket
with integral studs so you just drill out the old rivets with a 19/64" drill
and it bolts in nicely with nuts supplied.
You have to wire in a different connector. (with pigtail supplied)
I wired the old connector into the harness just so it doesn't get lost.
It works fine now.

Good Luck, Bill

Maybe the ground wire is loose? sometimes it makes contact & other times no?
Or the rubber seals are worn & so it gets stuck at an angle??