The drivers window made an evil loud bang when going down to the bottom.
It sounded like something snapped.
It cycled to the top OK then went down and quit going up.
I can hear some gear slipping when attempting to raise.

Does this sound like a broken regulator? gear tooth snapped off maybe?
The window is open, fully down and to conform with Murphy's Law, whats left of Hurricane Ida is scheduled to dump 3-5 inches of rain on us overnight. I've got the door sealed with a poly tarp for now.

Bill

Most probably the motor's gear teeth has worn. Its slipping on the regulator's teeth. Or BOTH has worn. Open the door card and manually push up the window while pressing the UP button on the window's switch.

I've replaced driver side window regulator before. The rivets you see is factory's original installation. Drill these out and replace with 8mm bolts/nuts leftover bits from waterpump replacement set. Install a used regulator set from eBay.

No worries there. Its either worn gear teeth OR tired window motor.

Amarin.

Hi Amarin,

I found that the metal bracket for the motor snapped just above the motor on the bracket that supports the gear arm. There's a separate little piece at the end of the 2" break that was bent and looks like it interfered with the gear at the low position. The motor and pinion are OK, and the gear looks OK, except the last tooth is badly worn. I thought about welding the bracket, but it looks like a waste of time since the metal is so thin. I ordered a new regulator.
When you install with 8MM bolts do you use locking nuts? It might be easier to reinstall with the right pop rivets? FCP sells them for 29c each.
----
Also I just completed the installation of Euro headlights and want to know the adjustment procedure. I fiddled with the 3 adjusters but don't see anything
changing.
What color bulbs do you use for park & turns signals?

The Vendor sent me the wrong bulb holders for the corner/turns lights, He sent sockets for dual filament bulbs, and I want single filament sockets. The vendor is slow to reply to mail, maybe he's in the hospital with Covid?

Of two sets of H4 lamps ordered here one was completely mis-wired and the other works fine. The one that works fine is a NovSight.

I installed a high beam bypass relay so I don't blow up the turns signal stalk switch. That's standard in your car and in Canada. The USA got the short end in the 940 lighting dept.

Cheers, Bill

With respect to the headlights: I would suggest that you try to adjust the beam pattern with the correct incandescent bulbs installed.
The units were designed around that tiny but very bright filament, and its position inside the unit is critical for achieving the correct pattern.
You're probably not going to be able to achieve that with retrofit LED bulbs. And I probably mentioned this before: it is why to this day ONLY incandescent (halogen) bulbs are street legal in these units over here.

With those halogens, you will be looking at adjusting to this pattern in LHD countries:

I used blue threadlocker for the bolts. What I meant by 8mm bolt is that bolt has 8mm hex head with 6mm shank width. I have lots of these leftover from waterpump hardware. I don't have the hand tool for rivets so I didn't use rivets.

For headlamp adjustment:


You have to turn the adjusting knobs many times (maybe up to 10x) in one direction while watching the pattern on the wall. Then you'll know which turns (clockwise/anticlockwise) produce the up or down aim.

I also compare the height of my headlamp aim with adjacent cars during traffic stop at red light (night time). Then re-adjust accordingly back at home.


Amarin

Hi Amarin,

I'll use your plan, and use bolts for the regulator, maybe use keeper nuts.
Did you find any issues with clearances to the regulator arms in the back side?

Today I found that the locking spring for the H3 fog light in the drivers side
was interfering with the main reflector when trying to adjust UP
It's a bad design and I formed the end of the locking spring to get clearance.
The other side didn't have that problem.

I e-mailed TYC tech support (Taiwan) for directions to adjust the lights
(which adjuster does what) and asked if they also provide OEM quality
main connectors and corner bulb holders etc.. They haven't responded yet.
They have a catalog of headlight and other parts at:
http://www.tyc.com.tw/index.php/ecatalog
Do you know anything about them?

There's also a removable ball socket for the main UP/DOWN reflector that seems to limit the ability to raise the main reflector. What's with that?
The headlights are aimed too low and I'll see in a few hours if they are any better.

I removed the headlight baffles in the 850 headlights and it improved the headlight pattern and am still thinking of trying that , but not before making sure these headlight assemblies aren't bad from the ebay dealer. The dealer is not replying to emails.

Bill

"Do you know anything about them? "
-> There are two main Taiwanese manufacturer in the headlamp business, namely TYC and DJ Auto. I bought DJ Auto headlamps. I got these from brick and mortar Volvo parts store in my town. So they must have checked for quality beforehand. Beside its having different cover style for the main H4 bulb (compared to OE) the headlamp doesn't have any other issue. Sorry can't comment about TYC.


"There's also a removable ball socket for the main UP/DOWN reflector that seems to limit the ability to raise the main reflector. What's with that?"
--> Some 940 models have headlamp aim switch at dashboard. The socket is for attachment of small motor for headlamp aiming. When the car is fully loaded at the back, the driver could aim the headlamp slightly low to compensate for slight tilting up at car's front. If your 940 doesn't have headlamp aiming device you shouldn't be meddling with this. My guess is that you had unscrewed the "ball" thing out its "socket" and now you couldn't adjust the aim using the knob.

I have meddled with this too! Ha!

All you have to do is to put the "ball" back into its "socket". Extend (make it longer) the "ball" thing while its out of headlamp. Then try to install it (push it) into its "socket" while holding the main reflector steady (hold steady via the main bulb opening). Until you feel a click or feel that the "ball" has gone into the "socket". (Try this a few times, some lubrication might be helpful on the "ball" ie. grease)

Then screw/secure the whole thing back onto the headlamp enclosure. Now your main reflector should be tilted down (headlamp aims down, you could see this thru headlamp's main glass). This due to the "ball" thing is installed "longer". Use the knob to correct the aim back to UP.

Amarin.

Sounds like the glass separated from the regulator. Take off the door panel, it's all there! Probably easier repair than it looks.

Thanks for the swift reply.
I took the door panel off and the glass seems attached OK and won't budge.

I can't do more work now since the driveway workshop is getting soaked.
Tomorrow afternoon after the heavy rain, I can try removing the regulator and see what happened.
I see that there's some common regulator repair using large pop rivets and wonder if that's what I heard snap?

Bill