There's write-ups about 240 e-code conversions, people love the improvement over
the retarded DOT lighting in the USA. There's lots of warnings about various knock off conversion kits and hints to use Volvo components. Now, maybe I'm
wrong, but there's an indication that Volvo may restrict sales of some parts to different regions likely including e-code headlight parts.
Astral makes a "complete" conversion kit available at Ebay.





Does anyone have info about this conversion?

Some people say to stick with Volvo... here's some items from Skandix who probably sells Volvo and knockoff items, and Scandcar who both have a big catalog of
Volvo parts.

Headlight units. (are these really Volvo numbers?)





Here's corner light options and a corner light socket kit





Assembling a kit requires checking to see if the lenses are for right or left hand drive. Then you have to add relays and adapters from once socket to another. Amarin can tell us what works best in the fast evolving LED department.

I'd like to setup the Canadian style running lights that are on when the engine is running. The Canadians also drive the Hi beam flashers with a relay which is a good idea not employed in the USA wiring.

Who knows what the shipping would be for Volvo components from Europe, there's
likely a huge shipping expense. Maybe there's Volvo dealers somewhere that sell e-code parts, and can ship cheaper? Some countries in Asia enjoy cheap, almost free outgoing shipping certainly subsidized by their governments.

Bill

Hi BB,

No additional wiring or relay needed for LED conversion.

Regarding your wish to do Canadian style DRL, please refer to diagrams below.

In the USA style, the power from battery --> headlight relay --> steering stalk --> bulb failure relay --> headlamps. Another parallel connection from battery to power the headlight switch to turn on the headlight relay.

In the Canadian style, the power from battery --> ignition switch --> (bypass headlight relay, stalk, headlight switch) --> bulb failure relay --> headlamps. Basically its from ignition straight to headlamps. Ignition ON means headlamps ON.


USA headlamp wiring below




Canada headlamp wiring below





Amarin.

Hi Amarin,

I installed relay 2/50 The High Beam bypass relay intending to find high power
LEDs. The USA and Canadian don't have this relay that protects the stalk switch.

Can you get any support for TYC headlights? I need a parts drawing for the headlight assembly and any set-up instructions. the main reflector adjustment for up/down can easily snap out of engagement when pulling back. It looks like a spring or springs are needed to hold the top of the main reflector into engagement with the adjuster ball, since it easily pops out when trying to raise. My supplier is uncooperative and so is TYC to an email to their tech support.

Many Ebay suppliers of LEDs are providing fantasy specifications for their products. I'm returning a set of H4 today that are rated at 120 watts a set
and they are 13.6 watts drawing only 1.0A for High and Low beam.

One enthusiastic ad for an 4-sided H4 LED claims 5000 Watts 675,000 lumens!
and it's on sale 50% off, $10.99 The photo doesn't seem right since you would expect to see 400 amp wire (battery cable) to the lamp. Can you fit a 400 amp fuse in the 940 fuseblock? :-)

The just installed 4-sided H4's are very interesting. They have two sections light for low beam and all four sections light for high beam. The low beam has no dead spots and both the high and low beams have good pattern. But the light output is poor. The low beam tests at 27.3 watts and the high beam 22.4 watts. The current drops as the lamp heats. You can reverse polarity and it still lights.

You get more light without the baffles, and with the TYC its easy to remove and
replace. It doesn't destroy the nice headlight pattern.

Happy motoring, Bill

I don't have parts diagram from TYC. But I do have from Volvo.

I think they should be similar, if not the same.

Only front view is available. Part #18 is the "ball" thingy.



Regards,
Amarin.

I bought a set of e-codes from a junk yard in Germany on Ebay. I had to buy a grill and some plastic air deflector parts from a 940 with fog lights from a local junk yard. I also had to order some european corner lights from Ebay. Once I had all of the parts it was fairly easy to install. I didn't need any relays. If you get some from England, they will fit, but your left light will point too high.

Thanks for the response.
Did you also get the headlight and corner light connectors?
I need a source for OEM headlight connectors and corner light bulb holders.

Are you in the states and using halogen lamps? For euro lights Volvo adds a relay to take the extra current load off the stalk switch. I added the relay here.

Bill

Skandix lists their shipping rates here. For some reason, shipping to the USA (up to 31 kg) is € 125 while Canadians pay € 55. Scandcar, you will have to give a call or send an email, but I guess rates will be similar.

Skandix sells reproduction (knockoff sounds a bit harsh) and genuine Volvo items. The Volvo items are almost € 500 per single unit! € 75 for the reproduction.
Beware of Skandix interpretation of LHD and RHD, instead they use "right hand traffic" and "left hand traffic", which may lead to confusion. Check the Volvo part.nos!

Skandix and Scandcar would not do business, protecting their USA distributors I suppose. Some years ago Skandix was very cooperative with Brickie Ryan Ridgely
with 240 e-code conversion, but no more.

So I ordered the AstralAutoHersteller kit at Ebay and today received a TYC kit (Made in Taiwan) kit which may have plastic lenses. How to confirm that?
TYC H-4 # 20-5404 (Left) and TYC H-4 # 30-5403 (right)
All of the TYC cartons have Swedish Car Parts stickers with part numbers.
The two corner lights are included- Missing are the bulb holders, bulbs and
harness components promised in the ad.

I need info about the 2nd high beam/spot and fog lights
They are both H-3 halogens... which is which? There's an upper and lower.
I ordered some compact H3- LED's which might help keep the heat from destroying the headlight plastic components. What is it that wrecks the adjusters?
Is it the heat from the halogen lamps? Do they need some Never-Seez or other
attention.

I'm not sure about the wiring changes needed for the corner lights.
I'm waiting to hear from the vendor.
Also I see that the Canadians have DRL with the engine running, and they employ a relay to flash the high beams, vs the USA using only the stalk switch. I like the Canadian scheme better. Relays are dirt cheap, and not so much for stalk switches. I wonder if that wiring is missing in the USA cars?

I can't find any info about removing the corner lights and headlight assemblies.

Bill