Yes,
You can jumper the compressors magnetic clutch coil straight from the positive post of the battery.
This will test that coil as it will pull the clutch plate back tight against the pulley.
If no click use a screwdriver placed in front of the clutch to see if it sucks against the clutch plate.
There is a bullet nose or a spade connector, on a single wire a few inches from the compressor clutch to give you access to the coil.
If nothing, check for a grounding wire on the compressor mounting bolts.

If it doesn’t then you have a power supply problem from the fuse panel on inward from either the snow switch or the delay relay.
You can then jumper out the delay relays “output terminals” with the relay removed and that circumvents the snow flake switch. The SF switch just energizes the relay on.

To by pass the low pressure switch, located on the aluminum can suction side you have to pull open the connector and jumper the two wires in there.
This will make the compressor clutch click in, after a short time delay, when you engage the snow flake switch on the console. Of course, the ignition switch has to be in the run II position to make this happen.

The cycling of the compressor is done by the low pressure switch that was mentioned earlier.
If you are out of refrigerant you do not want to let the compressor run and pump very long as you can pull a vacuum on the low side very quickly.
If you have a leak on the low side this will suck in air of which is full of moisture. You don’t want any moisture in the system.

It’s best to always use a jumper on the low side pressure switch in a momentary fashion!
When you are “out there”(:) with that, you can listen and observe the systems operation.

Phil