Well, now that I have my window regulator working I can now turn to the door lock mechanism.

First, I never lock my car. I would rather have stuff stolen from it than to have to go through a smashed window episode. When I drove it to Puerto Vallarta five years ago I would leave a bribe in the centre console so that thieves would not get angry and trash the interior. Nobody ever broke in as it turned out.

But my door lock mechanism locks itself and I continually have to open the driver's side door using the key. It is an intermittent snag and might have something to do with temperature. It seems to do more locking on the colder days than the warmer ones.

Regardless, I suspect an adjustment might be in order and it is to this possibility I address my remarks.

I will take the driver's side door panel off today or tomorrow and then I will be able to adjust the mechanism. What will I behold? And is there a standard way of setting up the door lock arrangement?

In general the system works fine. It locks all of the doors when asked, etc. I would just rather it not decide by itself whether the doors should be locked or unlocked.

Dear muskox37,

Hope you're well and stay so. When a door lock self-locks, that means a spring in the door lock mechanism - which spring is not replaceable - has broken. The spring is not available as a separate item: it is staked to the mechanism such that it would be very hard to remove a broken spring and then replace it.

The lock mechanism is Volvo #9127546. It has been "no longer available" for several years. If memory serves, when the part was available, it cost about US$120.

This part was used in a number of models, so You should be able to find one at a salvage yard.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

JUST REPLACE THE WHIOLE DOOR..

Dear Blindboy,

Hope you're well and stay so. Finding a door color-matched to the car won't be easy.

Aligning a door is not easy: it is a three-dimensional task. The door has to be centered in the opening. Then, angle of the door has to be adjusted, so that the top rail (above the window) and the bottom edge (which presses against the gasket) are oriented such that the door seals correctly.

It is far easier to swap-out the lock mechanism. While the lock mechanism is not easy of access, once the interior door panel has been removed, someone with "small" hands can do the job in no more than 30 minutes.

If memory serves, two easily-accessible screws secure the lock mechanism to the door's shell. There is one electrical connector. And there are a couple of steel rods, that need to be disconnected.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Good morning Spook,

I didn't take blindboy's advice seriously and doubt whether he meant it that way. I think he was just getting at all of the snags I am dealing with on that door and that maybe I should think of getting a completely new door. At least that is the way I take the comment.

Today when I took off the lock knob, preparatory to removing the door panel, the door was unlocked. But when I shut the door, the shaft dropped about a quarter of an inch and at that point the door locked itself.

It seems to be loose and that is what I will be trying to change when I have the inside panel off the door. Maybe an o ring could do the job.

muskox37

Dear muskox37,

Hope you're well. The "O"-ring will need to be re-set each time the mechanism locks, as the "O" ring will be raised on each locking action. Once raised, it will not be able to stop the button from "dropping" into the "locked" position.

A better solution might be a light-weight coil spring, through the center of which goes the color-matched plastic lock button. The spring's interior diameter should be about 7mm. The button's top will keep the spring in place. The spring will keep tension on the button, and keep the button from descending on its own.

If the spring can be compressed by the lock motor, when the lock motor "locks" the door, then the spring can store enough energy to keep the button from dropping, when the button is in the "raised" (unlocked) position.

This will be a permanent solution, at least until you can find a replacement lock mechanism.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Good morning Spook,

Okay, let me know if I have this right. The spring would be visible and would coil around the plastic lock button. The top of the spring would be held in place by the button and the bottom would rest on the door upholstery.

So I would need a spring with a big enough centre to allow the lock button to enter it but not so big that it would allow the top of the lock button to pass through. The top of the lock button would compress the spring when locking the door.

Is that it or do I have it wrong?

I rather like Spook’s novel idea of a spring on the button. I see your local Cdn Tire has a small selection, including a 5/16x1-5/8 compression spring in stock that may be of suitable diameter. It’s likely too long and too stiff for the job, but you could try adjusting its properties by cutting out a number of coils to reduce tension and stretching it for length. HDepot also has a few in their fastener carousels, including a 9/32x2 that looks finer wire. If it’s a bit too narrow you can also try carefully unwinding the spring a bit to increase diameter. Never underestimate what you can find for cheap at a thrift store or dollar store like a toy water pistol that may have a suitable spring inside. Although pulling the lock mechanism is a bit of a pain, I'm wondering if you got good enough playing with a selection of springs if you could repair it.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

This is right off topic. I have found a couple of springs that might work so I am holding off on that topic until I get my door pocket covered in leather. I fixed the crack with the plastic staples but there was a small hole and and the crack was very visible and I had a bit of leather around so I thought I would turn imitation plastic leather into the real thing! Once I am done that I will get back to re-installing the door interior and seeing if the springs will sit properly.

But. The black peg that holds the red courtesy light lens is now broken completely. I tried to pry it out of its hole and it broke in two. The holding part of the peg was already broken off around the edges but I probably could have used it at least one more time. Is there any kind of supplier for these various plastic pegs that are throughout this door that you know of? I will search around, ipd, etc. but thought I would throw out a query.

Or I will have to fashion something out of wood or plastic.

3D printing
Give a Shout out to --- that 87 wagon owner who moved to Florida...
He 3D printed hood vent leaf guards.

SwedishBaclava or close to it was his Handle on BB---

sense of humor----the flaky crusty buttery treat with you morn coffee.... yum.
Flaking Rust on your Volvo---not so much joy.

Door Button LOL
Relativity Space's massive 3D printers are reinventing rockets, and manufacturing

https://www.cnbc.com/2021/05/27/relativity-space-3d-printers-are-reinventing-more-than-rockets.html

PS
I can go to my local county library and they will 3D print in plastic ---But I need to give them the specs. They will help me thru that process---the specs part.

I don't recall ever seeing aftermarket plastic studs like the one you broke at the door marker light lens and can't think of a good substitue. BTW, I'm not sure why you were trying to remove it. The stud stays in the door frame and the lens holds the door panel. Be warned on re-assembly, make sure the stud is properly protruding before pushing the lens back in or you risk breaking the finger tabs on the lens.

In the schematics, it's front door panel "clip" #6 p/n 6847074, common to all the 700s and 900s from 1988-on, and still available from Volvo for a couple of dollars. You never know if something like that is in local stock as body and glass shops are forever breaking that kind of thing not always knowing how the door panels are fastened. eEuroparts and other on-line suppliers of Genuine Volvo parts also carry them, but the cross border shipping will kill you.

Failing that, have a chat with our friends at Chapman.

While I'm thinking of door panel clips, the speaker grills grab similar studs (for anyone reading this who hasn't figured it out, while pushing in on the grill you slide the grill forward off the pins). As you will see, the slotted tabs on the back of the speaker grills aren't overly thick, so do be careful to push in the door panel firmly when slipping the grills back on so that the studs are fully protruding and make sure the tabs aren't sitting on top of the pins when you push in as they start to get brittle with age and are easily broken if you're not a bit careful. Also be warned of the clips along the bottom of the door panel. Use a hook to pull them straight down, not a screwdriver to try prying them off at an angle. (As you can guess, I've broken such things before).
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Morning Dave,

I will try to get a picture of what remains of the peg to show you why I tried to replace it. It looks like it is not supposed to be removed and is probably considered a disposable part by Volvo. I will try to get one from Volvo Cars Victoria using your part number.

My speaker grille shows signs of previous door work. One of the slotted tabs has been replaced by one of my sheet metal specials and the other one is broken off. They are quite flimsy.

I was able to get some of the bottom pegs at one point in the history of this car. I have two yellow ones and an orange one. The corresponding door panel clips have all survived and I do use a screwdriver to take them off. But I will take your advice to use a hook tool in future.

Once again, thanks for your input

Bob

Hi Dave,

In my case the plastic peg had lost more than half of the rim that encircles the peg and that the red lens slides under to affix the lens to the door proper. I thought I might be able to pry it out ended up breaking it in the attempt.

It is black and similar to the speaker ones but it is not as long. I have not seen a whole one because I could not find the part that broke off and probably now lies along the inside bottom of the door.

I will try Volvo Cars Victoria. I have a good contact there and with the part number you provided I will see if he can find one for me. Chapmans is next. I was trying to figure out if I could manufacture a wooden version that would do the trick.

Bob

Hi Dave!

You are the man of my own heart!
Find what you can that is standard.
I value lots of things as I know how hard it can be to make some things that seem so simple. Then there’s the favorite idea, it’s cheaper, due to mass production.
Yes I too, have taken springs out of things being thrown away.
A favorite place are spray bottles heads and ball point pens for light strength applications.
Getting heavier and longer ones are ALL around for the very mindful and watchful.
Someone else’s trash can be a treasure, when in need! Otherwise, you turn into a pack rat!
Every time I pull an item at a PNP I save the fasteners. Especially those special ones, but I limit my self to one box or drawer! Hmm, or both? ):-)


Yes I’m out sliding around on the Brickboard, again, looking for entertaining reading and spotted this interesting thread and your name.
I’m a fan of yours and several others as it turns out!
You are very detailed and get your point across easier than I do!

As a machinist I have made my own springs, occasionally “when desperate,” from other springs or from music wire for guitars or pianos.
I use my lathe and wind them around a turned down diameter and the threading half nut lead screw.
A Crude method with lots of experimenting to get the Internal Diameter just right, as it is tempered and drawn material. It’s something I learned in high school!

Here is a site finding available springs
https://www.leespring.com/catalog
It’s more of a supply vendor, so it depends on how many thousands you want! I have never purchased directly from them, that’s another department.
They tout 25,000 types or they will make them!
I have used their catalogs in the past, for R &D work arounds, when they were just getting started in business.
Good for reference to help follow standards or what actually turned into some standard springs designs.
Contacting them today may lead to similar sources like McMaster Carr.
I’m sure they have vendor lists that make supply assortments kits in a range that will work elsewhere on many cars.
Just a thought, but unfortunately in lots of cases, for you can end up with those you never use too.

Oh well, it looks like the “up force” on the lock rods weight is missing!
Maybe a drag device can be incorporated?
A long piece of foam rubber hose might be too simple, but it’s springy?
(:-)

I just remembered more about the company I referenced above.
It was just a fun joke, in my time, in our machining and engineering departments about the Lee Springs solutions. It’s worth a look to see where they are now!
This was back in the days of Jim Nabors and his “Gomer Pyle” character.
It would get mumbled or mused about from time to time that during our revelations.
“Gol-L- Lee, I didn’t know that!”
(:-)
Today, that might not be taken so funny to someone?
(:/


Phil

Hello Phil,

Hope you are having a good morning. I would like to ask you what I might be able to do with this broken peg. It inserts into the door and when you put the door panel upholstery back on the car the red courtesy light lens slides under it and helps to hold the door panel in place. The pegs that hold the speaker grille on the other side of the door are very similar to it.

I tried to pry it out because it is damaged around much of its circumference and I wanted to take a look at it. Not such a good idea because it broke off and now I have a useless bit of plastic.

I have been looking at buying a used wood lathe so that I could recreate it in wood. I expect there will be other things like this that are becoming hard to get from Volvo. My contact in Victoria was telling me that the company is wrapping up its support for older model cars and that parts are becoming increasingly difficult to find. I do have the part number from Dave so I will ask my Victoria contact if he can get one for me but I would like to have alternatives available.

Thanks for your input on the spring. I have found a couple of shorter ones around the house and they fit but if they don't work out I will use your lead to source a replacement.

Bob aka muskox37

Hi there,

I’m sorry I cannot help you much here as I have no experience with the 900 series and can only imagine what you are talking about.

Repairing plastic items is a real “bear” to contend with.
The polymers are very much a closed chain molecule type animal without much of a “tail” to latch things onto. Things mainly work because of a “ratio” of reactions.
Lots of plastic recipes are accidentally created!

Using an Encapsulation form of adhesives have moderate successes.
Excess or uncontrolled Heating to make or mend them disrupts and degrades the molecules so it’s usually a weak mend but that’s not to say it will not ever work.

I have had better success with the encapsulating process or using a mechanical means to strengthen the break.
In your case a very fine wire or fiber through the center and then have an adhesive attach itself to that substrate.

One has to remember, when it comes manufacturing, they’re not looking for repairability. Fast assembly and move it! The term “slap it together” is just that!

I recently had a start switch fail on my washing machine motor. Looked it up and they wanted $48 to $70 for a new one or the whole motor complete for $126 to $152.

I took the switch apart and found a fulcrum pivot point holding a lever in place had snap off clean.
It was a molded in place “spike” sticking up from one side of the case and it snapped flush internally.

I decided to replace the pivot spike with a 8/32 diameter nylon screw. I made a hole where the pin was and tapped the side of the case. Probably only engaged two threads but it tightened on the cases side.
The screw was almost the exact diameter for the lever arm. So I shaved the threads slightly with a file and sandpaper for a slip fit and Screwed it in!
The total repair was 49 cents with tax at the hardware store!

The switch price was ridiculous and in this way, I didn’t “fuel the fires” of insane markups!

Having repairable things can sure make for some great days for grinning!
(:-)

Phil

Good morning Phil,

I could not agree more. My washing machine began to fail to drain itself. After much expense I finally found that the lid was not causing the on/off switch mounted on it to activate. I shaved about an eighth of an inch off its washer and everything worked. If I had only known I could have fixed it for nothing. But I do have a lot of refurbished parts and expect the washer to now outlast me.

I have had some success repairing the belly pan on my 240 with a plastic stapler I bought from Walmart. It embeds the staple in the plastic using heat and then the ends can be clipped off and the plastic smoothed over. I had a number of cracks and breaks around the bolt holes and the stapler did a good job of repairing them. Less success with the broken plastic door pocket. The plastic is quite thin and I went through and created damage a couple of times with bulges and holes on the visible side. The long crack was stapled together however and does show signs that it will hold over the long term.

It probably wouldn't work with a switch because of space limitations but I thought I would mention my experience with it.

Bob aka muskox37

Hi Bob,

This particular washing machine five or six years ago used of course!
I looked for another Maytag for my second house then.
My other house has a Maytag A606 that was also purchased used in 1974!
It still original with only two belt changes and one tub seal! Still swishing two people clothes!
That one has been a lifetime!
Just shows what happens when you mess with success!

I never heard of a plastic stapler so I looked it up!
Very interesting technique!
Now that’s definitely a mechanical way of tackling plastic! Or should I say tacking?

Thanks for the show and tell!

Phil

Dear muskox37,

Hope you're well. You're spot on!

The hard part will be to find a spring, that meets the dimensional requirements, but is not so "stiff" that it resists the down-ward "tug" of the lock motor, yet still stores enough energy to keep the button "up", so that the button does not descend on its own.

Some hardware stores have a section with trays of fasteners, washers, bolts, nuts, etc., and also "generic" springs. In such a place, you might find a suitable spring.

The only way to know if a spring is adequate is to try it. So, you might want to drive the car to such a hardware store, hand them $10, and explain you want to try various springs, to see if there's one that will meet the need.

If you find one, post with any indentifier on the tray section.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Thank you for your reply, Spook, much appreciated.

I will have a look around the garage and if nothing turns up I will take Dave's advice and give Canadian Tire a try. I will probably take the locking knob with me and try it right there.

Thank you once again. I will try Dave's suggestion first and see if I can keep the door lock from dropping down with an o ring but after that it will be off to the wrecking yard once again to try and find a replacement.

I was going to respond to the original poster with the information that, at least with the 240 series I have more experience with, a broken "hair spring" located in the latch mechanism was the cause. A used replacement solved the issue. Spook beat me to it. Something "gummy" or a rubber O-ring around the door lock button (to keep it up) will accomplish the same thing till a replacement latch is found. - Dave