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Hey y'all,
Happy weekend....yet again I come on here as a subscriber and I swear, this time I will report back with the results of the actions taken. Can't remember the last thing I was asking for help with, think it was a battery alternator issue that seemed to work itself out with the warm weather...starts fine and battery not draining any longer...go figure
NOW for the next thing....recently did the timing belt which was a lot of fun...new seals, new tensioning bar and spring...new OE Volvo water pump installed jointly, etc..
HOWEVER>>>very recently, yesterday to be exact, I was driving her in some bad slow traffic and I've been noticing the stickshift getting kind of warm and the housing underneath it...but yesterday after driving for about an hour, the shifter became EXTREMELY tough to shift in and out of 1st to 2nd and almost impossible to get into reverse...it was also shaking unless I held firm to the frontmost drivers' side corner. Felt like it was pretty close to seizing in one of the gears....
this has never happened before so I was alarmed and scared the thing was going to melt and leave the car immobile.
ALSO...smelled something burning, def smelled like it was the result of what was going on in the transmission or clutch....like a oil burning smell.
WEIRD PART: upon getting somewhere safe and leaving for about a half hour, I started her up again and the stick was much easier to shift...got it in reverse even. And about another 2-3 hours later just started it up and drove back and forth like 10 feet and the shifter felt pretty good again....WIERD!!! I did not drive it home, left it in my work shop to be evaluated further. Did not want to risk it seizing on the drive home (30-45min).
BACKGROUND: Had the car over 10 years, she use to grind quite a bit in 1st and reverse til I had the flywheel and plate and cable replaced with a sachs kit. It has been slipping out of gear every now and then, only when first being engaged into a gear and then theres some grinding that results. Not sure if the M47 has ever been replaced or serviced....dont think so. At one point I tried to check its fluid levels but the fill bolt was so chewed up from previous owner or something, I could not even get a socket on it...heard they might have been threadlocked into the trannie and no way to get them out....not sure.
Will report back later today after getting under her and assessing the situation from underneath. Probably take it for a short drive around the block to to see how it drives....
Thank you for your time
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You may be missing my point about clutch free play - clutch free play has nothing to do with the grip point and cannot be checked with your foot.
To check free play you gently push on the clutch pedal with a finger - there should be 1/2 inch of movement with almost NO resistance.
The only resistance should come from the small spring that keeps the pedal up during driving, similar to the spring that holds the brake pedal up.
If you feel clutch spring pressure, you may have a slipping clutch
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Well Ladies and Gents, I think I have finally figured it out...or at least identified what the heck is going on. Took the shift boot off, put the car up on ramps and with the aid of a friend examined from below and above and moved the shiffter all around.
The ball of the shift lever's base is literally not locked into the socket of the transmission bracket member that extends back to hold it thru the circular hole at the end....the lever can be moved up and down very easily. Either the rubber socket is failing or the snap ring that is suppose to hold the ball tight in the socket is failing or its a combination of both....the snap ring looks like it is pretty wide with its opening or 'mouth' being, if it was a clock, from noon to 3-4pm...which seems too wide to me. Either way, the ball is not staying tight in the socket and has ability to go down pretty easily....which leads to the burning smell...
Burning smell: the shifter now having the aability to go too far down was allowing the selector rod to go down and subsequently touch/rub on the spinning rubber donut thing that is part of the connection between the trans and the beginning of the driveshaft. NOt sure what the technical name of this donut is..BUT I can see scuff/groove marks on the selector rod right above the donut indicating it was touching the spinning donut when car was on causing these scuffs/grooves and burning the rubber on the donut...
Also, my entire shifter connection point to the trans bracket member and the selector rod is rusted pretty heavily and needs some serious PB blaster and wire brushing.
In addition the rear seal of the transmission is sweating a fair amount.
SO...its time to disassemble the entire shifter rod from the socket and selector rod, clean it all up, put in new bushings and hardware....think I saw on IPD that they have brass connectors and bushings? WHile I'm at it I think its time to tackle the rear seal which means I have to also get that fill bolt out big-time (time to weld on a larger bolt and crank it out!)...and possibly replace the trans mount...since I'm definitely going to be lowering it at least if not removing it from the engine.....that's something I am a bit worried about. Seems to get at the two upper bell housing bolts is a real pain....perhaps I don't to remove the entire trans to do the rear seal....let me know what you think about that nutshell..
THanks again to the community for all the help and guidance...I'm always learning something new.
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Upon just reading Rene's comment about the shifter bracket member rusting out/breaking...I may have to examine further...hope the hole in the bracket member that makes up the socket hasn't rusted out so bad that it no longer has structural integrity to hold the shifter ball securely....that would be bad news.
When I take it apart carefully I'll be able to tell. I won't be taking it apart for a few days. The car is at my work in a bit of a warehouse space where I can work on it within reason...will have to ferry it between inside this warehouse space and the street during the day when we're working and at night when I can work on it. Taking today off for mental health! Plus I live a good 45-60 minutes from my work so its a commitment when I'm going to work on it since I can't drive it home or there...but its much better there than on the street where I live.
Report back later this week. Thanks fellow BRICKERS!!!
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OK,
sorry for the discombobulation with this post, but here is another very important piece of the puzzle that I think will help with the prognosis...
Got the car back today and was driving it around a bit....the entire stick of the stick shift drops down beyond any normal level at times and almost gets stuck....this happens in neutral when moving the stick around in free play and I was able to do it by pressing it down.....it remains in neutral and doesn't go into any gears until I pull it back up and shift into a proper gear.....
So there's that.....think I need to jack it up and get under it and have a friend move the stick around while I view from below....glass bottom boat if you will...
Please inform/educate me, but this seems more and more like a transmission problem ....I don't know...the clutch goes in and out normally and seems decent....
Anyways, signing off for now....back at her tomorrow
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Thanks Grey245,
Yes, its really weird, never been able to push the shifter literally down...I am going to examine further today, removing the shifter boot as you said to look from above and get underneath it.
Sighhhhh....yes, I am expecting more than one issue at this point.....but she's lasted pretty well and hasn't cost anywhere near as much as new cars for parts and service for over 10 years so can I complain?
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Hi there,
I agree that the shifter lever should not move up or down because there is a internal snap ring holding down the split spherical halves into the bracket. The bracket is a solidly welded up fixture to hold the shifter unit right onto the transmission.
If you can move the shifter up and down, then the adjustable “reverse guiding plate” would not restrain the shifter lever from going way too far over get reverse and miss first gear and second gear location line. Remember you need to pull up on the ring under the shift knob to do this!
The third to fourth alignment lines are limited within the gates in the top on the transmission that guide the actual shifting rod.
Fifth gear is a pause out to flip right in midstream.
Something has got to be amiss here!
The graphic illustration in the other post defines this!
Are you are pulling up and down the tail of the transmission too!
What shape in the rubber mount under the transmission going to the cross member?
Things would have to really soft or missing someplace?
I’m still trying to think out the smell issue and the heat to cause all of this.
I sure hope you have not gotten the transmission so hot that it has overheated the casted urethane foam rubber up in the top of the tunnel over the transmission. It can fall down onto the shift fixture.
It’s there to, supposedly, keep sounds, air drafts and any fumes from coming up from under the shifter boot!
You are definitely keeping us mystified with each new revelation!
Phil
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I was thinking along the same lines, like a failed crossmeber. But then thought "nah, a half decent mechanic - which he took it to - would have found that".
Maybe this version of M47 still hass the more rust prone tubular tripod instead of the welded bracket, as Rene suggested. Perhaps that would also explain why it needs to be in neutral for the gear lever to be able to be pushed down.
Patiently awaiting the results of the inspection...
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That sounds like a shift linkage issue. When underneath follow and examine the condition of the linkage arms. Not sure what Volvo used but look at the bolts/rivets/circlips that connect the linkage arms. Also check where the linkage connects to the shifter rod. Something may be bent, damaged or missing.
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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THanks J,
Definitely going to give the undercarriage a full examination and remove the shifter boot and look from above also....
More fun in the sun as I put on my shadetree mechanic hat once again....
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You really need to Download the M47 Greenbooks---2 of them, that I linked for you in my earlier post.
These are the VOLVO Technical Manuals for the M47.
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Copy that CeeBee1,
I've always used the Bentley bible and followed posts on here or other sites pertaining to what I was fixing, but you are totally right....for the clutch and trans its time to use the official manual and do it right.
Downloading today
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Could the linkage condition described in this piece from the 700/900 FAQ be part of your shifting problem?
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionManual.htm#M47ShiftLinkageCausesHardShift
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First,
I am going to be taking it slow and not jumping to any conclusions as everyone on here has raised the issues of clutch problems, rear seals, low fluid, etc....
Just took the car to my usual mechanic and he can't tell what the issue is. It was fine for him. He literally said it drove great and that there were not problems with the transmission...but based on what I described to him he thought transmission.
So, from what people have advised here: Grey245 and Kittysgrey:
Pretty certain the smell was the hot brake/circuit board variety..That's why I described it as weird as I know a burning electrical motor smell but not in my car so it was unusual.
James recommendation on the clutch: a good friend of mine who used to be on here and is the guy who talked me into buying my brick beast in the first place over 10 years ago...he in the last few years got a suped up mid 2000s Subaru Legacy GT and doesn't frequent the brickboard...(traitor)....BUT he drove my brick a few weeks ago and said he didn't think the clutch felt very good and that it was in bad shape....so there's that
And Kittysgreyvolvo, thankfully there is no whining in 5th gear and in none of the gears for now so that could be a good sign about fluid levels, perhaps...
GOALS:
-jack her up and prod around some more
-driving it for 1/2 at most and not far and seeing what happens
-welding something (possibly a larger nut) onto the fill bolt on the M47 and seeing if I can get that sucker out!
-checking clutch adjustment
-researching this pilot bearing mentioned by last poster and also researching rear seal as I'm pretty sure the rear seal is leaking very very slowly..and more transmission related research with the M47>>>.
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Hi,
Before you go jacking up the car do what the Click & Clack brothers use to advise!
Find a tree and put the front bumper up against it. Put the transmission in second or even third and see if the clutch will stall the engine before it slips.
If the engine revs up and doesn’t stall it’s slipping.
If you are driving down the road and you shower down on the accelerator and have a tachometer it should not jump up but pull the car.
Does it mean ... “if you shower down” does it mean you’re barefooted and a set of gnarled toes grab the top of the pedal? (:-). Like a Big Daddy Roth illustration! (:-)
I personally have not done this to a tree but I think I could find a solid brick block wall and use a piece of thick plywood against so I wouldn’t damage my rubber covered bumper!
I’m sure Ray and Tom have done this to some older cars or tractors and not any of the styrofoam bumpers of to day!
Tom passed away but Ray may still have a hand in the garage.
You probably wouldn’t want to see their shop walls or the even the trees in and around the shop area in Massachusetts! (:-)
Phil
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Fun fact.....:
Something you might have not been aware of is that Tom Magliozzi was also a college professor. In fact, he was my Marketing professor! Great guy! Smart but very funny too - RIP Tom.
The Good News Garage in Cambridge is still open and managed by Ray. “Click and Clack the Tappet Brothers” was one of my favorite radio shows!
JW
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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Well, from your descriptions on smell and your friend's comment on the clutch not feeling as it should, I would be inclined to start looking for the problem there. Not assuming the rest is fine - the gearbox oil is something that needs to be looked in too anyway - but you need to start somewhere.
This passage from the FAQ that Chris Mullet linked to is interesting (to me too, as I have a hard time shifting into first from neutral when idling) as it distinguishes between possible causes depending on the symptoms:
The key indicator would be that worn synchros allow the gears to clash (crunch)as their job is to cause two shaft to match speeds. Silent gear changes that take a lot of effort are usually a clutch which does not fully disengage or as you found out, the shifter itself.
A burning clutch smell while driving would have me think that it is not engaging fully anymore leading to a slipping clutch. Have you tried pulling away with the handbrake firmly engaged?
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Hi,
Been reading over the posts and my first conclusion is a bad pilot bearing on the input shaft!
It’s buried in the back end of the crankshaft under the flywheel that the clutch attaches too!
The input shaft has to remain stationary when the clutch is disengaged or otherwise the gears will receive constant torque from the input shaft. They will cause trouble with shifting and definitely slipping into reverse, unless you turn the engine off!
You can jack up the rear end or the drive wheel to see if the clutch is totally disengaging while running the engine in gear and the clutch in!
What is concerning is the heat being generated, say from a slipping clutch, since the turning over of gears alone not generate lots of heat at low traffic speeds, but the clutch can!
Bottom line is, Excessive Heat will damage any bearings lubricants.
When at higher speeds, this it is a slightly different scenario, especially, if the oil is low or has been compromised and lost its shear resistance!
This is where the seals lose control!
Oil is the life blood in this particular transmission and a warm stick shifter on a long trip.
Definitely not something you want on cool days, at this time of the year!
Hot summer roads radiation will reduce the heat losses from transmissions but transmissions do run a couple hundred degrees fairly easily under normal conditions.
The oil vapors some, but if reaching like 300 degrees, it’s going to smell more due to the extra quantity reaching the nostrils.
Seals in this design are not vapor containers, like they are in refrigeration compressors!
Yes the two smells you are getting are ”yelling out” heat related!
Good news is the transmission has to come out and all needs an inspection and evaluation of the flywheel and replacement of the pilot bearing. It has only one shot of grease and I Suspect it’s SHOT!
Change the rear main seal and make sure it’s a 92 mm inside diameter one. Elrings have not been so!
I have used this with success.
Crankshaft Seal
Timken/National
355660H
The front bearing and the seals of the transmission are probably needed too but I have not torn into my two project M47s.
I need to learn the whole story involved with them.
Especially the input shafts two bearings along its length. The very front one has issues over time as it spins the most, engine speed and subjected to the clutches spline heat and radiating heat!
You gotta get your foot off the pedal as soon as possible to minimize the scuffing, as with any clutch!
Very slow town traffic is the worst case scenario for clutches!
It’s best to keep in engaged, in Neutral, so the flywheel, pressure plate and pilot bearing to spin as one.
This will help equalize and cool in all the parts involved. Not much air gets transferred within the bell housings due to the fear of debris.
The flywheel gets hot spots too, but mostly on the very outermost surface and can be machined again.
The pressure plate “assembly” can probably be recut with a special fixture system but since heat and use affects the diaphragm flex springs it’s not worth the effort and consequently isn’t done, that I know of!
The SOP, Shop Operating Procedures is R &R as a complete Kit and rear main seal!
If you have none of the above, of which, is unlikely because something wasn’t right to even go in there!
You can get by with just a new disc, but “always” a new or lubricated pilot bearing!
Again, a $6.00 bearing isn’t worth that to chance, unless you like pulling transmissions!
Looking to know what you find out!
Phil
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You do not mention checking or adjusting the free play in your clutch.
Normal clutches need about one half inch of free play.
That is, you should be able to gently move the clutch pedal about one half inch with no resistance from the clutch springs.
This assures that the clutch is fully engaged.
Having no free play is almost like keeping your foot on the clutch pedal, causing the clutch to slip - burning and heating up!
I cannot understand that many mechanics do not understand free play - many adjust their clutches by finding a grip point that they think is correct.
If your free play is correct and you do not like how the clutch works, you need to repair something in the clutch mechanism.
NOTICE - some 240 clutches require a special procedure to set free play.
Make sure your mechanic knows how to set the free play on your car.
If not, see a mechanic who does!
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I actually feel that my clutch has too much play. It requires you to push it in pretty far...over a 1/2" for sure before it starts to disengage....def better than grinding, but still my clutch isn't that great to begin with. It grinds every now and then and upon first being started and cold it can be difficult to get into 1st gear, especially...
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You may be missing my point about clutch free play - clutch free play has nothing to do with the grip point and cannot be checked with your foot.
To check free play you gently push on the clutch pedal with a finger - there should be 1/2 inch of movement with almost NO resistance.
The only resistance should come from the small spring that keeps the pedal up during driving, similar to the spring that holds the brake pedal up.
If you feel clutch spring pressure, you may have a slipping clutch
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Hey James,
I will check that out. Haven't driven her in a minute, waiting for the shift lever parts to come in. I will examine using your finger pushing method. Seems pretty fail safe and easy, which I like A LOT!!!
Currently, the problem with it I found was that the ball of the shifter lever was not staying in the socket of the transmission member that is suppose to hold it securely and allow it to rotate and move. Once the car warmed up the shifter lever was popping up and down and all around! That's why I thought it was the transmission or clutch but its not. This crazy movement was allowing the selector rod to go all the way down and rub on the rubber donut thing that attaches the trannie shaft to the start of the drivetrain....hence, the chemically burning smell....bad news
Hopefully this shifter socket makeover will do the trick. But I will definitely check out the clutch based on your advice.
Thanks
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went back, and this caught my eye.
"BACKGROUND: Had the car over 10 years, ...I had the flywheel and plate and cable replaced with a sachs kit. ....... Not sure if the M47 has ever been replaced or serviced....dont think so."
fyi + ques.
To replace the Flywheel... requires the TRANS to be pulled. The trans would be Drained. When the job was done, the trans would be Refilled with (????)
Have any of the Rubber parts been replaced in those 10 Years. Engine Mts-2, Trans Mt, That rubber 'Guibo that attaches the Trans to the Drive Shaft????
Cheers
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THanks again for the advice, resources and questions to help me figure this out....
I always had a weird feeling about the clutch replacment years ago. I wasn't that capable with cars back then...come a long way since then, but I remember driving it right after and thinking....it doesn't feel that different.
Can't prove it, but I have a suspicious feeling my mechanic at the time, changed out the clutch cable and maybe kept the new pressure plate and flywheel....I was expecting the clutch to be tighter and not have to be pressed in so far to get it to disengage, but it felt only slightly better and the shifting was a little better, but not phenomenally better.....
And after that I stopped going to that mechanic....
AND unless he stripped out that trans fill bolt, it has never come out of the trans....it was gnarled up really bad years ago when I was trying to get it out and now with this problem, I pretty much made it cylindrical with a vise grips and torch trying to but it loose....Its time to weld on a larger bolt and pray that works
Thanks
Marc
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I can understand your suspicions towards that mechanic as I have been in a similar situation too.
But having said that, a long time ago I replaced the clutch on my 1970 Amazon/M40 myself. To be honest...I didn't really notice any difference.
He may have rounded off the fill bolt, but again, so did I myself on my M47, probably meaning that at 235.715 km (146.467 mi) I was the first to change the oil. It had a very high pitched whine (much higher than the usual gear whine) at highway speeds that disappeared after the oil change.
The manual called for ATF Type G (or F) or Volvo 1161324 (a 75W GL-4) but I had 80W90 GL-4 left from my Amazon days and because the rear seal was sweating oil, decided to put that in instead. Now, after roughly 45,000 km (27,962 mi), it's still doing fine. The thicker oil only made it marginally tougher to shift gears in the winter and only noticeable on first and second.
BTW, the M47 achilles heel is the fifth gear. It has the reputation of being less than adequately lubricated. The common solution (search this forum for "overfill M47") is to jack up the left of the car as high as it will go, support it on stands, and then fill the gearbox to the brim of filler hole. The slant means you can get in a lot more than the usual amount of oil. The normal capacity is 1.3 l (1.37 qt), but that way you can get in 2 l (2.11 qt). There's enough air left in the gearbox to not cause seal leaks .
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The biggest difference you will feel with a new clutch is that the pressure needed to step down is less when new. Point of engagement is a function of the adjustment of free play. As a clutch plate wears the "fingers" move outward (thus lessening the distance between them and the release bearing) so the action to release the clutch plate requires more movement of the fingers-- requiring more and more pressure at the pedal as the wear continues. That's why an almost worn out clutch disc becomes so heavy to your foot. - Dave
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Stallison,
An oil burning smell? Like engine oil dripped on a hot exhaust manifold?
Or a hot brake smell that is also smells of phenolic like hot circuit board?
Yes,as james_a_sousa indicates, check clutch cable adjust. However factory free play at where the cable secures to the throw out arm is maybe 2-5mm or 1/8" free play.
I employ more free play and also secure the the rubber block tso it does not wobble in the under-Volvo turbulence.
As the clutch material wears, cable slack is used up. It can get to the point where there is enough tension to prevent full clamping force of the clutch. Slippage starts small and readily increases to a full slip while engaged and will cause a hot burning smell.
Yet worrisome heat that travels up to the clutch up to the shift lever suggest a hot gear box.
If M47 oil level is low, and the oil is old of wrong fluid, you'll get a whine in 5th first and then in all gears except fourth.
You may also have exhaust that lost a heat shield.
Use quality Volvo lubricant. Several recent threads detail different gear box lube brand like Redline, Amsoil, and the Volvo fluid.
Hope it is nothing serious.
The 700/900 FAQ has articles on M46 / M47.
Hope that helps.
--
Beh.
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on an 89 w/ M47----the clutch play is checked by Pulling UP on the clutch pedal.
There should be 'free play' between where the pedal sits at rest and the Upper limit when doing this test.
In older Volvos---the M series trans, 4spds(+OD) the test is to push Down on the pedal to judge the free play.
To Adjust:
From Under-- at the Tranny---push/pull on the Fork---you should be able to move it by hand, I think the specs are 8 to 10 MM----though you can look that up.
If there is NO Play, then the clutch is not fully DIS-engaged when your foot is OFF the pedal. aka- 'you are riding the clutch'
Adjusting is really simple---using that threaded mounting that holds the clutch cable.
For The GreenBooks
Go to this website. OZ Volvo
https://ozvolvo.org/archive/
in the search bar type in -- M47. Download those GreenBooks
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and no way to get them out....
You can remove the mangled plugs with a sharp chisel and medium sized hammer.
With a corner of the chisel, make a notch near the edge of the plug and then give it a couple of good whacks in the CCW direction. It will loosen and start to back out.
This can be difficult with the transmission still in the car. With the car on jackstands there just isn't enough clearance to take a good swing at it so if you don't have access to a lift you will probably first want to remove the transmission.
It sounds like you really need to remove the gearbox anyway to renew seals/gaskets and inspect for internal problems.
Replacement plugs are available that have a large hex head. Between that and the use of anti-sieze compound, future removal should not be a problem.
Beware that the plugs from earlier gearboxes use pipe thread. If the gearbox in your '89 is original to the car, the plug you need is, I believe, UNF. Just compare old thread to new.
--
'79 242, '84 DL 2 door, '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon, '15 XC70 T6 AWD
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I would try the chisel method, but like you said, without a lift, I don't think that would be possible. I will try the welding a larger nut method onto it, though.
Looks like the very rear seal on the transmission is leaking....slowly as the back was only wet and no measurable drip or stains being left on the pavement...
Going to conitnue to research while also gettin it assessed by my mechanic to see what he thinks
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My M47 (1992) isn't particularly willing to engage first gear from idling in neutral, and I think it's quite common for the M47s to develop this over time. But in your case the problem arose suddenly and only for a short period of time, and that I find a little strange, perhaps the heat has something to do with that.
A burning clutch smells like burning brakes, which is not like burning oil, as you described it. Could your M47 be running very low on oil by now? The seals on either end of the gearbox don't last forever.
I too had a challenge getting the filler plug out of the current M47. I found this strange as on my previous (identical) 245, it came out easily.
I resorted to welding a nut on the remains of the plug head which enabled me to remove it. At the local carparts store I found a suitable off the shelf replacement that is now in its place, but is actually for a BMW.
Believe it or not, at the time Volvo deemed replacing the transmission oil unnecessary. It really says "no oil change required" in this service manual (1991-1995), unless the cars were in use as taxis or frequently used for towing trailers, in those cases the automatic transmissions would have a 75,000 km oil change interval (46,603 mi).
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Thanks for the advice. Thinking the welding of a larger nut onto the existing stripped one may be the way to go.
Drove the car around the neighborhood this afternoon and it was fine. However 5-10 minutes I did notice a burning smell again. Faint and light, not really sure if its a brake smell or an oil smell. SLighlty weird, like no other engine or brake smell I've smelled that's why I'm pretty sure its from the trans or the clutch.
I'm taking her to a mechanic soon to be assessed. Continuing research...OHHHHH I did notice the very back end of the transmission or gear box...the plate that terminates the trannie before it starts to connect to the first u-joint of the drivetrain, was wet. Not leaking very bad or anything, but def moist...
Very weird that it drove alright but still gave off a light burning smell...
The mystery continues....
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I did try to take out the fill plug with a special socket and it was not working at all...its rounder than a merry-go-round! That's why I'll employ the welding technique
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Hi, you definitely need to figure out how to get that fill plug out and change the trans fluid. Lack of lubrication could be contributing to the overheating. I’d suggest you don’t want to drive it anymore until you’ve changed the fluid.
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Drove it around the neighborhood this afternoon...drove alright, but after 5-10 minutes I could smell a weird slightly burnt smell...similar to the one Saturday.
Definitel not driving her far....prob to the mechanic to get it assessed. Continuing research til then.
Thank you
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Your transmition is probably low on oil or out,you are going to need a new one.
STOP DRIVING it just in case it isnt trashed!
Also sounds like the shifter assemly support may be rusted,weak or broke. I
did bhave one rust out, but it was a tubular tripod,not the square one
pictured,either would fit but the tubular one does rust out easier.
Unfortunatly i live far north otherwise i could sell you one
for an exorbitant price as i have about 5 M47 and 10 or so m46 and a few autos
René🤷♂️😢
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Rene
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