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1971 142E she will not run for the life of me. 140-160

I've got a 1971 142e She turns over and even makes a little pop and bang from the exhaust. I've replaced battery,spark plugs, plug cables, injectors, fuel pump, dizzy rotor, dizzy condenser, and dizzy contacts. I'm getting spark and fuel pressure I assume fuel as the injectors are freshly rebuilt and tested as well as they are receiving voltage. Also compression is good as well. I got her to start once with starting fluid through the intake manifold but that's it. I suspect timing but have gone through it twice now. Any ideas I'm open to anything even if I've already checked it.








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    Mike;

    "pop and bang from the exhaust" suggests Timing is way off (maybe Distributor is 180 Deg misinstalled), but then "got her to start once with starting fluid through the intake manifold" suggests it is capable of running, but has a fuel feed issue...if Injectors are "receiving voltage" that's OK, but they also need the Fuel Rail to be charged (to 30PSI)...its impossible to say much more without more info from you...

    Good Hunting



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      We use cheap LED's purchased from a local electronics supply store to check for pulses for the injectors.
      --
      Eric
      Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
      Torrance, CA 90502
      hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com



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        How about pulling the injectors from the head to check for adequate (and equal) fuel flow?



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          Chris;

          I very much like your visible but completely enclosed, Injector check tubes. They allow a safe, fuel delivery AND spray pattern check...I had never seen that before, but think its absolutely brilliant in its simplicity, effectiveness, and ignition risk mitigation!

          Of course, the first thing I would suggest Mike check for is to listen for Fuel Pump charging the Fuel Rail when turning ON the Ign Key...his no-start could be as simple as FuPu Fuse being open from a poor contact at the Fuseholder (a known common issue for owners which haven't treated all of their fuseends with ACZP)...I like to start by checking the simple things first...

          Cheers



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            I mainly used clear tubing so that I could easily compare the volume of fuel flowing through each injector. This was after running them through a DYI back flush process. Whether the flow rate was to spec or not I had no idea, but I figured if all four were equal, or "close" to equal, then there was a good chance the flow rates were close to spec. Being able to witness the spray patterns turned out to be a bonus I hadn't thought about.

            Setting up for the test, I pulled the distributor out of the engine, removed the cap, and re-connected the trigger points connector. Turning the ignition on activated the fuel pump and D-jet system. Then I spun the distributor rotor as fast as I could with my finger - spin, spin, spin, - and watched the injectors spray into the clear tubes. With no vacuum being applied to the MAP sensor the system calls for a high fuel flow rate through the injectors. I sucked on the MAP hose to simulate different engine loads along with propping the throttle plate open or closed while spinning the distro resulted in varying amounts of injector flow. As I recall, quickly opening the throttle alone resulted in an "acceleration shot" of fuel from the injectors. It was somewhat interesting. So now I was, in effect, performing a poor man's test of the entire D-jet system.

            A more crafty person would probably arrange a way to spin the bistro with a drill motor and use a vacuum pump to drive the MAP through varying vacuum levels so they don't have to suck on the hose.



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              "As I recall, quickly opening the throttle alone resulted in an "acceleration shot" of fuel from the injectors. It was somewhat interesting. So now I was, in effect, performing a poor man's test of the entire D-jet system"

              This is an easy check to see if the injectors are working. 1) Turn ignition on 2) Open throttle 3) You will hear the 20 clicks generated by the TPS 4) Test one injector at the time to see if you can feel the injectors opening and closing.

              When the fuel pump is working for 2 seconds after turning ignition on you can almost ensure that the fuel system is working.



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    Walk yourself through this. The go to manual.

    https://volvo1800pictures.com/document/fuel_injection_fault_tracer/fuel_injection_fault_tracing.pdf



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