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ENGINE FLUSH - KLEEN FLO 5-Min 200

Have 2 240s - B230 Engines - one has 625K (Carb 1980) and the other 225K (Injected 1993) (Canada) - run great.

Do you recommend a product like Kleen Flo 5-min flush - or just stay away - if will cause more issues, and likely not do anything to these bulletproof engines? Thanks.

If it works don't' fix' it?








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    ENGINE FLUSH - KLEEN FLO 5-Min 200

    Hi, lots of opinions on the subject of engine flushing and oils. There is a risk by using a flush either a branded product, or something like kerosene will dislodge pieces of sludge and block oil passages.

    The safer way to clean up the engine is to use a Full Synthetic , at least for a couple oil changes. You’ll find that the oil gets dirty real fast because it’s cleaning up. Lots of stories about synthetic causing leaks, bit of an historical perspective from the early days of synthetic. Not really a problem today. You might see some seeping, but stick it out for a couple 3000 mile oil changes and you’ll see the difference. You can switch back to conventional oil after that, don’t worry about changing back and forth between Dino oil and synthetic, that’s another old mechanics tale.








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    ENGINE FLUSH - KLEEN FLO 5-Min 200

    From a GM service bulletin to dealers a few years ago.....

    "General Motors is aware that some companies are marketing tools and equipment
    to support engine crankcase flush procedures. GM does NOT endorse or
    recommend crankcase flushing for any of its gasoline engines. Analysis of
    some of the materials used for crankcase flushing procedures indicates
    incompatibility with GM engine components and the potential for damage to some
    engine seals and bearings. Damage to engine components resulting from
    crankcase flushing procedures is not covered under the terms of the New
    Vehicle Warranty."

    So...oil and filter changes as per the owner's manual are all you need.

    --
    Son's XC70, daughter's XC60, my 83 244DL, 89 745 (Chev LT-1 V8), and XC60. Also '77 MGB with Chev V6, and four old motorcycles. Long gone: 1981 244, 1994 940 and 1998 S90.








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      ENGINE FLUSH - KLEEN FLO 5-Min 200

      Thanks to all for your input. When you think of it - the instructions say to add to crankcase before oil change.

      They do NOT consider:

      1 - if the oil capacity is 3.8L. or 6 or 7 litres - I see a problem with 'dilution' or 'concentration'

      2 - drain oil and add new oil - without a doubt there is some 'residual' left in the pan as well

      3 - todays oils have 'detergents' designed to keep parts free of build up

      Another 'quack' product for stupid poeple trying to 'fix' their engines that were neglected. IMO

      I trust the chemists (likely PhDs) at companies like Castrol and Mobil more !!








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        ENGINE FLUSH - KLEEN FLO 5-Min 200

        The 1980 with Carburettor at 625K would have the B21 A or B in the Canada market. If issues related to excess carbon in the sump and elsewhere may be:

        1. Worn rings causing combustion blow at 600+k (miles or kms?) by soiling the oil with combustion products as the oil turns black quickly.

        What appears as sludge is actually the combustion condensate the oil collects. One symptom is the PCV flame trap at the intake side front of the valve cover. That can clog rather quickly and build oil sump chamber pressure + the pressure added to it through compression blow by. Perform a compression test (full battery, spark plugs out, engine control or ignition by removing the fuse).

        You mention the engine is a 1980 240 you have is a B230 w/ carb? The PCV on B230 is a stacked assembly that emerges between the third and fourth intake runner whether carb or injected.

        If the B21 engine in the 1980 with carb, you very likely have the K-cam.

        It also helps to get the exhaust analyzed upstream of the (if fitted) catalytic converter. Measuring for carbon monoxide the results should be around 1% yet you can also measure for HC and NoX for an indicator of engine combustion. You are probably running rich in the 1980 with carb.

        2. The 1993 Canada 240 uses the same engine control as do the same year US market 240s Comes equipped with OBD-1. You can check for diagnostic trouble code using this procedure (copy and paste URL into new browser window) or click FAQ at the top of each brickboard page. The URL to run DTC tests with your engine control.

        https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm
        --
        Beh.








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          ENGINE FLUSH - KLEEN FLO 5-Min 200

          THANKS - YES I HAD A B230 PUT IN TO REPLACE THE B21 WHICH HAD SEVERE PISTON SLAP AND WRIST PIN ISSUES - MY MECHANIC GAVE ME THE ENGINE N/C - JUST $900 TO INSTALL - 10 yrs ago no regrets - more power and no oil consumption.

          Could not pass on a deal like that








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            B230 where a B21 was .... 200

            Hi Mike,

            Exactly what I want to do. The 242 and 164 are my fave Volvo models ever!

            I now have a rotting and rusting 1990 (made in 1989) 240 Wagon with M47 II.

            My hope is to find up to a 1981 (or 1984 - final 242 year) as a roller shell, and stuff the 1990 240 drive line in. yet I'd like to build the engine and service the M47 II gearbox, transfer the 1990 struts to the 242 body (bigger diameter front stub hub axles), and some how improve the suspension (urethane bushes, repack rear wheel hubs [many neglect the 240 rear wheel hub bearing grease pack until it is too late], some manner of HD spring at normal ride height, and some manner of mild replacement stabilizer bars. For the engine, an A or K cam. Like to get around 150 HP & gt-lbs torque. A touring configuration with improved engine efficacy for fuel economy, cleaner exhaust output, with raise performance. No need to floor it from a green light. Yet nice to climb steep mountainous grades without fading.

            Reticent to ever bolt on a Turbo. A low pressure belt-driven Supercharger was a fancy until you see these used for $1000s. Hard to fit anyhoo.

            Moonroof optional as a moonroof raises floorpan and other unibody corrosion risks.

            So far as I know all the embedded fasteners are in the unibody in 1975-1984 242 for a 1990 driveline swap in, with improvements. Oh, yeah, working A/C.

            Never will happen. No 164 for me either.

            Happy Sundae.
            --
            Beh.








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              B230 where a B21 was .... 200

              I DID THE URETHANE BUSHINGS AND THEY ARE GREAT - also have 15" Volvo 740 alloy rims Draco - tons of tire types available - the 14" have limited choices. Also got the improved heater valve from Charlie Risen - much better heat control instead of hot or cold - but its not 100% (perhaps 90% - still have to play with it but very, very minor) - also put a stainless heater tube from water pump to heater core

              When I had the B230 put in it had fuel injection - and the mechanic put the single carb from the B21 back on - said more reliable - however I did have an issue after 10yrs (the carb at that time was from 1980 - the ethanol from the fuel - I used 94 Octane - put a pinhole in the float - called the fuel supplier and they said they use extra ethanol to boost octane from 91 to 94 - so I now stick to 91 grade - after a new float no issues. Also put an electric fuel pump on

              I love the 93 240 - but A/C broken - and Volvo in its 'wisdom' did not provide air vents - only windows - so the old 1980 is better on hot days








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    Preventive maintenance ... 200

    Proper preventive maintenance prevents any need for engine flush.

    What symptoms do you encounter now that make you believe you need use of a Kleen Flo 5?

    You mean this product:

    https://www.kleenflo.com/products/637.html

    Are you required to test emissions regular on one of both of your 240s in your province? If yes, do they pass provincial emissions requirements?

    Are one are both of the engines basted in engine oil and grime? If yes, probably a clogged PCV system or leaking engine oil seals.

    Practice regular oil changes.

    Else, I'm unsure how to help you.
    --
    Beh.








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    ENGINE FLUSH - KLEEN FLO 5-Min 200

    This is one of those subjects with a lot of opinions that very wildly, and this is mine: don't use that stuff.

    For some reason the 3,000 mi oil change interval remained popular in the USA, perhaps the whole of North America. If you too adhere to that, you're changing the oil 3x more frequently than necessary and IMHO you're basically already flushing the engine on a continual basis.

    The official engine oil change interval for the 1992 model year is once a year or every 15,000 km (9,321 mi) whichever comes first. It's half that if the car is run under difficult conditions for long periods of time.

    I adhere to the normal 15,000 km interval and I have not yet seen any kind of sludge build-up.









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      ENGINE FLUSH - KLEEN FLO 5-Min 200

      Agreed, don’t use the stuff.

      Personally, I would never go 15,000km or 9321 miles between oil changes on a 240. My concern would be the filter failing not the oil (particularly synthetic). Filters do fail occasionally. Oil is cheap. So is the filter...:)

      --
      Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....








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        ENGINE FLUSH - KLEEN FLO 5-Min 200

        If you use the OEM filter, I have no doubt that it is well up to that mileage and by a very large margin too.

        This OEM filter can be branded as one of these:
        Bosch PH 3219 (0 451 103 219)
        Mann Filter W 917
        Volvo 3517857

        I tore several of those down after use. Not for inspecting the filter's state but for the amount of dirt caught by it.
        Not once did I see anything pointing towards any kind of failure.

        I tried a Mahle OC 204 filter instead once, as Mahle/Knecht is Volvo's OEM of choice nowadays. They don't manage to fit nearly the amount of filter medium in the same outer dimensions as Mann does, but otherwise it has a similar solid construction. It too held up to the 15,000 km interval just fine.








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          ENGINE FLUSH - KLEEN FLO 5-Min 200

          During the 11 years I owned my 240 I used Mann oil filters exclusively. Like you, I’m sold on their quality. It’s some of the other filters on the market I don’t trust.

          Still wouldn’t go 9000+ miles between oil changes on a 240. Of course, then I was using conventional oil! I don’t trust conventional oil to last that long. I’ve seen too many studies citing conventional oil breaking down after 6-7000 miles or so. Synthetic is a different story.
          --
          Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....








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            ENGINE FLUSH - KLEEN FLO 5-Min 200

            Well, if you look at the construction of a heavy haul truck oil filter, it is the same, just bigger. But they are expected to do 60,000 mi or so between intervals.
            No, with a good quality oil filter, it's not that which you need to be worried about, IMHO.

            Oh, and more than 80,000 mi without an oil change is possible, just expect to find something like this:



            This is what it looked like under the valve cover of an Audi TT after 135,000 km without oil change. I doubt that kleen flo would help here, though...








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    ENGINE FLUSH - KLEEN FLO 5-Min 200

    Its likely not doing anything good or bad at same time. Thats why there are lots of these on the market. Its a way to make easy money. Some of these "oil flush" are more expansive than a bottle of 4 litre oil. Go figure.

    Doing flushing is good but do it the "proper" way. Use a cheap 4 litre engine oil to replace the current oil in your engine. Continue using the old filter. Drive a short trip to town and back. Then drain the cheap oil. If its still looks "dirty" consider to do second flushing with a fresh cheap oil. Finally use your favourite oil (with filter change) when the drained oil looks "clean"

    Do these once every few years if you're really into flushing.


    Amarin.







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