Hello folks, anyone have advise on engine installation with transmission mounted to cross member/ suspension and installing from bottom up as I would assume factory did. I am fortunate to have a two post lift as well as a heavy duty rolling table to use. Wondering if this makes sense to go this way or more conventional from top down to mate to installed cross frame. I was successful in removing engine and transmission in one piece from top several years back when I started this restoration so can repeat that process just thinking it might be safer from bottom up.

Thank you for any advise/recommendations you have,
Peter

👍

Well certainly has been a lot longer than a month to get tranny back from rebuild shop (8 weeks) but finally got to mount to engine/cross member assembly to install to car. It was one of the most satisfying experiences I have had, the install by lowering car on lift to meet up with assembly was perfect and a real piece of cake which took no time. I was able to do it with the air filters installed just had to jockey my table lateraly a bit to clear body frame for filters. Cross member lined up perfectly and bolts went right in. I did get the correct shims in place up front under cross member. I would love to include a couple of photos for those that would like to see but can never seem to figure out how to do so on this website correctly as I have failed before.

Thanks again for all the help,
Peter Leoni

Your pictures at https://groups.io/g/1800list/topics show that you have done a beautiful job on the restoration. Congratulations.

Thank you Derek, I look forward to more of your help as I'm having difficulties getting the ignition fired up and believe it's my white/black wire coming from key switch to distributor so will by pass to see if I can get a spark later today and also have to look into the rpm sender sealed box up front in the cowl to understand that wiring better.

“... and also have to look into the rpm sender sealed box up front in the cowl to understand that wiring better...”

??????

Do you have some sort of aftermarket ignition system?

No everything is OEM for a '63 including coil

This is the early tach sender box. They don't have a very good reputation after all this time due to being in the worse place for the weather etc. I don't think new or alternates are available but Ron may have something to say about that on his SWEM pages. I guess you mean Ron not Ken?

yes I certainly did mean to say Ron, thank you for the correction Derek, a bit early for me here :)

Peter;

Suggested reading to help you get a stock Ignition Sys functional, and Timed: https://www.sw-em.com/Volvo%20Ignition%20from%20Scratch.htm#Static%20Timing

Good Hunting!

Wow that is incredible information and very well written Ken, you are amazing. Can not believe all the detail and clear explanations you have provided in this technical publication you have authored. The graphics and detail are outstanding.

Thank you again for sharing,
Peter

Peter;

I presume you mean my tech article and info collection...if so, thanks for the kind words...

There is not much info available (let alone replacement parts) for the Remote Voltage Sensing Tach sender for the Gen 1 Tach Instrument. Even the factory recommendation in the case of failure, was to replace them with Gen 2 (local Current Sensing) unit. If you have one and it works, consider yourself very lucky indeed...if it is nonfunctional, changing the Instrument to a working Gen 2 unit is about the only option. ...and IF you go that route please contact me...I'd like to have the Sender for a post-mortem/design investigation.

Cheers

Ron just to make sure I have the Rev counter pickup wired correctly. Would you happen to know the three markings on pickup terminals labeled "B'. "+". "M" should connect to Black/white wire to distributor to "B", White wire from fuse panel 12v to "+" and Black/brown wire to tach to the "M" terminal if that is correct? Also when I test the White wire from fuse panel from ignition switch I get 12v with key on position 1, 12v on position 3 (run) but zero volts on position 4 (start).

Thank you,
Peter

Peter;

Wiring is correct, see also: https://www.sw-em.com/Smith's%20Tachometer.htm#Smiths_Tachometers_Gen1_vs_Gen2_vs_Gen3

No Power Ign Loads at Pos 4 is due to Loadshedding and also correct, see also: http://www.sw-em.com/IGN%20Switch%20Function.JPG
Source: http://www.sw-em.com/ignition_switch_key_breakage_tech_article.htm

Cheers

Awesome Ron, thank you for your quick reply and I'm sure very helpful links which I will dive into now.

All the best,
Peter

So sorry for mis-stating your name this morning Ron, my apologies. Thanks again for the help and you are certainly welcome to it and I will send you the sender if indeed it turns out faulty. Still not sure I have the wires connected to it correctly as I could be backwards on the three terminals as my reference sketch is a bit "sketchy". I should of also had the RPM gauge upgraded to "Gen 2" when I sent out to have all the instruments rebuilt so might have to do that again down the road.

Thanks,
Peter

Excellent, thank you Ron for the link

If you can set the body down over the drivetrain, I'd do it that way. And I'd mate the engine and tranny BEFOREhand.

Top down.....Let gravity help you. Take your time and you'll be fine. Layers of cardboard lining the engine compartment

Well I guess this is possible if your lift and table allows it. Very few people will have done it this way. Dropping the engine/trans in from the top can be hazardous to paint so if yours is fresh and new you're wise to be wary. I hope that you have remembered what shims are required when refitting the cross member to chassis bolts. A second person would be useful I think even if it's just for your own safety but unless you have a remote on a long lead or wireless for the lift another pair of eyes will be useful too. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Thank you Derek for your helpful points. I did spend a lot of time getting the paint perfect as well as the engine bay. I will have a buddy to help and guide as I don't have a remote for the lift. You bring up a great question about the cross member shims which I do recall 10 years ago when I dropped the cross member. Hopefully I did mark them but first I got to find them :) I'll be ready for this installation in a month or so as I first want to install rear end assembly and finish up on the engine rebuild than I'll post some photos. I found last night a short video from the "Mechanic London" episode 31 on YouTube were he does this type of installation, too bad there was not more detail but looks like it went very well for him.

Thanks again,
Peter