So I need a new crank position sensor, then. Any suggestions as to a safe seller, like FCP Euro or IPD? Also, this is a base model, so no turbo. Is there any difference between one that would fit the B230FT (much more common) and my lowly B230F? Same part?

FCP Euro has this Bougicord one for under $40. It that acceptable? I tend to only use OEM parts for critical parts like this one, but I have over 350,000 miles on the car and it has been sitting for a long time. I just need it to run and drive. I suppose the advice to carry one in the glove box might be good if I can pick up one now, and one more later when I am (I hope) off of this damnable Unemployment nonsense. (Stupid virus!) :-)

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-reference-sensor-rpm-240-740-760-780-940-271949

Thanks, folks. You have been very helpful. And thanks to Yount for the photo links!

I could not see the Pics, blocked by firewall.

The crankshaft postion sensor will cause a no start. If the RPM needle does not bounce when you crank, you have confirmed it is bad.

That signal goes to the ignition module and shuts spark and fuel off if the engine is not turning.

I recently ordered a Bougicord to replace one and it was bad out of the box but the replacement FCP sent was fine.
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Paul NW Indiana '90 745 turbo 145 K

Hi there,
I usually hide out on the 240’s but the engines are the same.

I agree with (rstarky) that is the Crank Position Sensor lead coming up from behind the engine head.
It doesn’t look good because the insulation is off the aluminum shielding that cannot suffer any abrasions or corrosion.

That wonder piece of electronic sensing is a number one item that will cause nothing to work!
The ICU computer needs to see a signal from that guy or the the other computer doesn’t even know that the engine is turning! In other words no spark from the coil into the main spark plug wire.

There is no way to test it, per say by common folks and some mechanics, so plan on buying one just because!

I carry an extra one in the trunk just in case they go bad. This is without ever having one to be looking as bad as yours! Shop around a little bit as the prices vary a lot by scalpers!

It’s in a tight place back there, but a 1/4” drive socket and a 10mm socket with a fairly long extension will reach it. Some people use a small universal joint to give in to a slight angle.
What else that helps, is to rig up a platform to lay on over the engine. You will need to get comfortable and relaxed so frustration doesn’t set in so it will be a quick job!

Post back to let us know if we are correct.
This is a long time to let a car sit so you are likely to have other issues but getting spark is number one to get going!
You can check the coil wire to a ground point to a strut tower bolt. The spark should jump about 1/4” to it!
From there it’s about distribution!


Phil

I believe that is the lead off of the crank position sensor.

That cable should lead down to the front center top of the bell housing where the sensor is held in place with 10mm hex head bolt.

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Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal