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hi folks Jim adams here. I posted about my volvo 245 regarding a hard/no start problem. several of you have responded so thank you. I still have the problem so I thought i would lay out what i have done and results. this will be somewhat wordy. bye the bye, my previous post was under hotbike650. I must have written down my login info wrong and cannot remember what it is. I am logged in now through the one click login in the email they sent me. Ok,to the problem.
car was getting hard to start and was leaking/blowing oil. Looked like the worst was cam anb crank so I decided to replace them, clean it all up and go from there. I did that, put it all back togeher, hit the key, fired right up. came out the next morning, no start. since this was a cold start problem I replaced the fuel injection temp sensor. Put it all back together, hit the key, fired right up. Wife went to the store, stopped to pick up some fast food, all going good.Accidentally hit a huge puddle coming home water splashed up probably under the hood. car died but started right back up Came out this morning, no start. What i have done/checked.
rep ect sensor. checked for spark ,ok, fuel pressure ok, another fuel pump relay,checked voltage at AMM, voltage between 10 and i2 is ok.loked at amm off the car and could see the platinum wire inside, looked ok.When the car was running the other day, until it was warmed up it had a stumble/hesitation on take off. Will a bad amm cause a no start problem? I have one ordered.Also the last time it was running after starting the idle surged up and down until warming up. Qh and checked compression, also good, at 120psi so there is ml tale of woe.Appreciate all your advice. Also, would there be any one on this forum who lives in the beaverton/hillsboro oregon area who could maybe put some eyes on this I also need some help with pcv hose routeing. Thanks Jim.
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Many dealers never charge for more than an hour's labor for trouble shooting. (My Volvo dealer, Lovering Volvo and my son-in-law's Subaru dealership where hwe works.)
My dealer has actually offered vehicle inspections with a written report for FREE! I do not know if the offer is in force right now.
You mention leaks and oil blowing - have you done a rubber glove test? Remove the oil filler cap and hold a rubber glove over the opening - if the glove blows up, your car has a breathing problem - possibly your flame arrestor.
Is your maintenance up to snuff? Volvos can compensate for several ills - but at some point they fail.
When your car does not want to start, how long do you try to start it? What gets it back to starting again?
How old are your ignition parts, including wires? are the separation looms and hooks keeping the wires apart?
When I had problems with our '90 744 TI a mechanic told me to take the electrical connections apart, check them for corrosion, clean them, apply dielectric grease and zip tie together any that you can. I did one connection every few days so if things got worse, I knew where to look. That solved my problem. I sold the car with 225K and the buyer drove another 75K without problems, then I lost touch with them.
Fuel air and spark - how does your air cleaner look?
When you have a no start, a little ether can check to see if fuel is ok.
Good luck.
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If all else fails, you could always convert back to a carb like I recently did on a '79 244. Wish I'd done it sooner.
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Hi,
I found your hotbike650 postings, from last month and see that your car is a 1987 245. This should help keep up the continuity between threads.
I see you changed the ECT so guess that didn't help much!
I responded to the your post with the link to Art' information even though I had my doubts it was bad unless it was really lean or rich.
Were you able to take readings to confirm it was bad?
You said you had a bad main wire from the coil earlier, did you replace it?
You had said the wires were two years old but in many cases the main wire doesn't come with a set and can get ancient, if not careful.
If the ignition misses, the computer tries to correct it immediately, so , the hunt take off!
It has several options, it can do, depending on its severity!
By the car starting up good when cold just says that the mechanics of the engine are in time with the spark and fuel is rich enough for at least a short period.
Running rough or missing is the warmup mode in the program set by the throttle switch with a clean throttle body.
Make sure the plate is completely closing and the switch clicks, just as the plate moves to open, no more!
The adjustment screw under the stop lever is only there to stop, the plate from jamming in the bore under spring pulling from the throttle cable.
Do not set it up with that screw like the manual says! No extra turn except the width of the screws slot!
You want the idling air to go through the IAC. It has RANGE to cover, just below idle, but raise it above idle, substantially, to get the car breathing and compressing!
That black plug is a remnant of the earliest LH model and some revisions.
It's only used to keep the engine "loping below" the true idle speed of 750, set by the computer.
The IAC get grounded to get it below that basic idle speed to "confirm" the the throttle plate is not too far open! Just set it closed and you're basically done, unless you have air leaks elsewhere!
The two pin IAC doesn't need this preset check. I think the IAC wire may continue on my later cars?
If you have the three pin unit, the computer forces it back and forth, so, it's more prone NOT to idle back as reliably as the newer spring return models, of the later year cars.
IACs do wear out eventually and stick due to brush wear in both models!
It's just the newer one, gets driven less, to get to the other setting of "closed."
You can also rinse the IAC, with the carburetor cleaner, the vane opening, while hanging it downward with motor end up, but that's about it for cleaning, as there is no other servicing!
The engine should rev up each and every time you start the car without touching the pedal. The IAC shoots it up and must bring it back down quickly or its bad!
Cleaning might help, if you are pushing too much oil towards the intake hose and the throttle plate!
Using carburetor cleaner in the bore but I use it with a rag to avoid blowing some down the shaft towards the throttle switch.
Clean the hole going over to the vacuum line and on to the FPR, as if effects the units response to acceleration and idling! The throttle body constantly wiggles the fuel pressure, with vacuum or velocity changes, in the throttle bore.
From there it's up to correct mixture and precise air control behind the AMM.
Vacuum lines and This means, the snorkel tube or accordion tube too!
It must not be loose on either end or have any tiny-tiny cracks in the volutes.
Inspect with an internal light up inside the tube while flexing. Check around the port connections for the hoses carefully.
An occasional failure to idle reliably or die can be caused by engine movement of the hose!
A last minute thought to keep under your hat is ... A bad intake manifold gasket!
It's is rare, but it does happen to cause grief with similar symptoms.
The mileage is up there if it's never been changed out!
I guess losing the sign in to your original threads has happen to several members! (:(
Maybe Jarrod, could put in a reply/request form in, since the BB ... NOW, has this email confirmation method or connection back to us!
I Hate to guess how many duplicated members there may be!
A way to reconnect to those members might remind them that the BB is better than ever!
Especially, if the older drivers, driving those new Volvo Space capsules and the Build Out that has been done for them on the BB!
Traffic seems low all across the BB. Or it it just my imagination?
Phil
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