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My Check Engine light is on, but the code coming back is 1-1-1.
Is there still an issue, or should I just ignore it?
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-Cool Volvo- 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 310K, 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 231k. Past proud owner of 1966 122, 1968 144, 1970 145, 1972 144, 1980 245, 1982 240 4 Spd OD
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So, after getting the 2-1-2 code, I decided to get a new O2 Sensor.
Got the Bosch 13034 from Amazon.
After replacing the O2 Sensor, the Check Engine light went off.
But, after a couple of days, it came back up.
I reset the OBD box and no check light.
Let's see what happens...
--
-Cool Volvo- 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 310K, 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 231k. Past proud owner of 1966 122, 1968 144, 1970 145, 1972 144, 1980 245, 1982 240 4 Spd OD
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The fact that the same code came back probably means that the O2 sensor was not the cause.
A little warning here: don't take those codes at face value. They only point you in the general direction where to look, but a code may have many possible causes.
Try to eliminate as many causes as possible using the tips and tricks and the documents and procedures given and linked to by fellow forum members before you start replacing parts.
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Actually, what I heard is that if the O2 level is borderline,
it may take the Sensor a few tries to figure it out.
So far, the Check Engine has been clear for a couple of days.
I'm trying to stay optimistic!
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-Cool Volvo- 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 310K, 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 231k. Past proud owner of 1966 122, 1968 144, 1970 145, 1972 144, 1980 245, 1982 240 4 Spd OD
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Hi,
I don’t know what the issue is with the codes not clearing out but you might consider this.
I want to say this though that on most newer computers in newer cars it is recommended to not only disconnect the battery cables but to touch them each together.
I had read about this earlier and finally got to see it work on a 2001 Ford pickup of a neighborhood friend.
His light did the same thing and wouldn’t clear despite they had exchanged in a new battery because it wasn’t holding a charge.
His Dad used to run a garage and I had to talk the Dad into trying it. He is old school, so not a dummy!
I pull the negative terminal off the battery “first” anyways, so everything stops!
I now lay it over to the top of the positive terminal for about a half minute or less has worked!
This creates a grounding circuit throughout the whole supply system side of the car and drains all the things everywhere having integrated memory chips that can run on near nothing for power.
Car Computers don’t like running on a low voltage system and for some reason, they remember it!
This causes the need for a “hard” reset! The above is a hard reset!
Worth trying if it does come back.
Good luck!
Phil
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The hard reset is an interesting idea, but in my case the light went away,
but then came back a couple of times.
But, so far so good - it's stayed off for close to a week now.
So, maybe the ECU finally adjusted to the new O2 Sensor!
--
-Cool Volvo- 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 310K, 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 231k. Past proud owner of 1966 122, 1968 144, 1970 145, 1972 144, 1980 245, 1982 240 4 Spd OD
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May also take the ECU a little time to adjust to the new O2 sensor.
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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Hi CoolVolvo and Grey245,
Pleased your new replacement oxygen sensor appears so far, so good!
The fault codes in 1989 240 US market engine control require the operator to check and clear the fault codes, yes?
The fault codes clear automatically? Not encountered that yet.
Maybe I do not allow enough time for the code to clear automatically after the service repair?
Happy Friday everybody!
Soup and Salad today ...
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Beh.
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Well, I am unsure wether or not codes erase automatically.
On my previous 245, I was experiencing an intermittent fault lighting the check engine (CEL, lambda sond symbol). But as soon as I had switched off the ignition and restarted the engine, the CEL had extinguished and no codes had been stored.
Then when the CEL lit again I stopped the car in a safe place but kept te engine running and read the code. The ECU had thrown a 1-1-3.
FF to today (yes, actually less than 2 hours ago), my current 245 threw a CEL combined with 2-3-1 and 2-2-1. However, these stayed in the memory when I switched off the ignition and then back on again.
Now I am about to erase them and see if they return.
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Let me preface this by saying I think the OBD 1 system has a mind of it own...:) Don’t trust it.
After resetting the OBD 1 box it should clear permanently after driving for a little while if it is truly fixed.
Interestingly enough, once on my 95 850 (last year OBD 1) I did fix a vacuum leak that had thrown a CEL and amazingly the CEL immediately went out and never returned. That was okay with me!
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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I agree, but I just found out there may be a logic in it after all, and that it might depend on what the code is based on.
It merits a topic on its own, so I started it here.
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Probably an Art Benstein question?
And no DTC codes in socket 6?
Whenever anything oxygen sensor DTC code come up, I'll get the digital electric multimeter out and test it. If the 02 sensor is okay, than then starts the air induction intake and exhaust leak, how old is the rotor and cap, new pumps deliver proper fuel rail pressure, so no issue with the FPR ...
Else, I have the LH-Jet 2.4 in 1990 (no EGR), 1991 (EGR, yet that logic is in the EZK ECU), and LH-Jetronic 3.1 in my M47 1992.
Yet I'm impatient and reset right after the repair.
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Beh.
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I'm hoping Art will chime in.
Well, March last year I had a start-fine-bog-down-right-away issue that cured itself as soon as I took off the connector to start measuring. It too had thrown a 2-3-1 (and perhaps also a 2-2-1, but I had only read the first code on socket 2).
It never returned, so now I chose to leave the connectors in place and reset everything. First through the DTC clearing procedure, and when that did not have any effect through disconnecting the battery.
The issue I am having (had?) now arose mid cruise without any noticeable effects. It just lit the CEL (with 2-3-1 + 2-2-1 on socket 2, 1-1-1 on socket 6). There are no tell-tale signs yet indicating it is running lean or rich. It starts and runs fine cold or warm and the spark plug isolator noses show a healthy colour.
After the hard reset, the codes have not returned. But, the idle seems to be somewhat high more often than before. A fault that I have not yet found the cause of (see this long thread.) Maybe they are related.
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Chime in: An oxygen sensor needs heat. Most common cause I've seen for 212 is fuse 4. This fuse protects the tank pump and the oxygen sensor's heater circuit. The tank pump can be inoperative without you being aware.
Check to see if the heater is working by measuring the resistance toward your new sensor at the connector under the windshield wiper motor. Check it cold, before you start the car, then check it immediately after shutting off the engine just warmed up. A good heater circuit will show a high value like 13 ohms slowly decreasing to a cold value around 3-4 ohms.
Fuse 4 can be blown or just crusty.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Eat, drink, and be thoughtful.
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Since you wrote "code" (single) presumably you read on one socket only.
Did you read the codes on both sockets 2 and 6?
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I did only read Port 6 where I got the 1-1-1.
The documentation is very confusion but I tried it again today,
even though I almost lost patience due to the cold weather.
This time I tried Port 2 as well and I believe I got 2-1-2
which is an Oxygen Sensor issue.
The car runs fine, but looks like it may be consuming too much gas.
--
-Cool Volvo- 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 310K, 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 231k. Past proud owner of 1966 122, 1968 144, 1970 145, 1972 144, 1980 245, 1982 240 4 Spd OD
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If not already, you may want to repeat the socket 2 fault code test for any additional fault codes.
You can test the oxygen sensor using a electric digital multimeter. From the FAQ (copy and paste link into to browser tab or window):
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSensors.htm#OxygenSensorLifeandDiagnostics
Meanwhile, read this to test your oxygen sensor. As Art B. indicates the red harbor freight digital electric multimeter may not be accurate.
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1628410/220/240/260/280/oxygen_sensor_code.html
Questions?
Hope that helps keep your Volvo Cool!
cheers,
MacDuff
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Beh.
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Thanks so much for all the great suggestions.
I'll try to find out if it's the O2 Sensor or the wiring.
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-Cool Volvo- 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 310K, 1989 240 5 Spd w/ 231k. Past proud owner of 1966 122, 1968 144, 1970 145, 1972 144, 1980 245, 1982 240 4 Spd OD
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OK. First a link to the fault codes possible with the LH2.4 Jetronic.
Not all codes make the Check Engine light go on, but 2-1-2 on socket 2 does.
A faulty O2 sensor is not one to be ignored for long as it is important for the correct fuel mixture.
Now you must determine whether the O2 sensor is faulty or the wiring is.
Comprehensive and easy to understand trouble shooting procedures can be found in Volvo's TP31361/1 which is available here.
Last but not least this info is very useful too.
Good luck!
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That sounds like a legitimate code. A faulty O2 sensor can cause a rich running condition. How old is the O2 sensor?
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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Make sure this is the Check Engine light and not the Service reminder oil change light. If there is a Check Engine condition then you need to check both engine computers at the diagnostic connector, the LH 2.4 fuel system on connector port 2 and the EZK ignition system on port 6. One of those will almost surely have something other than 1-1-1 if the dash lamp is lit. Refer to the 700/900 FAQ here for use of the OBD connector and interpretation of the codes. If the engine is otherwise running relatively normal then it's possible there's a transient condition, so always perform a reset and wait to see if the problem soon returns before getting too excited. Also take mental note of what stage of running the lamp re-lights after a reset, either right away on an attempted restart, after a moment of running, or after a period of operation, even days, as that can be a major clue as to the cause and severity.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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I don't know if your 89 /200 is like my 89 / 740. Mine can be reset by removing a small rubber plug on my instrument panel.removed it and I used a finish nail to reset the button.
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If it is 1-1-1 on all of the ports, then there is a short in the dash wiring.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new
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