Front seat on 91 240 failed Maryland state inspection!! Inspector pointed out play in the seat when grabbing the head rest and moving front to back. Passenger side the same. I verified there are no loose bolts. Everything is tight. But, there is play/slack in the hinges that connect seatback to seat. I've had this car 28 years bought used from the dealer - no accidents. I also had 2 other 240's. Don't ever remember any structural issues with the seats other than the seat cushion stuff. Isn't this normal on 240's or do these hinges breakdown over time and need to be replaced?

--Tom

My 89 245 did the same thing & in any caSE ITS THE SEAT BELT THAT STOP S YOU.cOMPLAIN TO HIS SUPERVISOR,,,& THEN TO HIS SUPERVISOR,,,& THEN TO YOUR STATE REP,

NJ NEVER inspeccted or cared about seats that just to force you to spend $$$ for no good reason

Make sure it is not the bolts that attach the hinge assembly to the lower frame. Not uncommon for those to come loose. 14mm head, accessible from underneath, though not easy. Or remove the seat. Bots/nuts that hold the hinge assembly to the top frame can also be loose, but with three each side, rarely the case.

Another thing yu could do is drill and tap for a small bolt. That way you can install an remove it at will.

Front driver's seat passed Maryland inspection. Drilled 2 holes in each hinge opposite each other and inserted machine screws. Will removed at some point when I find it to troublesome to not able to adjust the recline. Thanks to everyone for their help.

If you are not going to drive the car regularly to work, why not register the car as historic? In Maryland the car only has to be 20 years old, tags are half price and NO INSPECTION IS REQUIRED. Also Tom

I would try and lookup the inspection specifications to find out how much play is allowed. Officials sometimes feel they have to fail a few cars to look good for their boss. I'm suspicious of precise measurements done with just the naked eye.

Otherwise, try to identify the exact pivot, hinge pin, or whatever the play is in. You may be able to improvise a fix good enough just to pass.

Thanks for your response. It would be interesting to know if Maryland has
specifications on the amount of allowable play. I talked with the folks at
the inspection center today and they are working with me to get it
resolved.

Tom

Forgive me but I'm a grouchy old man who has been bull**** too many times. "Working with You" translates to "how do we cover our asses this time" or "What's his name who doesn't like imported cars has done it to us again".
Request which state vehicle code is applicable regardless of the out come. Tell them you want to be able to insure you vehicle is in order next time. That way you come away with something useful.

Tom, I think there is normal play that may be increased some with wear. Also, I think your inspector may not be convinced of this, so either you come up with the $80 to have it inspected by someone else (maybe more if you need to tow it) or you could try another set of hinges.

I checked our two '89s with a tape measure at the top of the headrest, moving the seat fore and back. The wagon has about 1/2" movement; the sedan a full inch.

If you decide on repair, and you determine the play is in the hinges, I have a good assortment.




--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

“Dance like no one is watching; email like it may one day be read aloud in a deposition.”

Thanks Art. I agree with you. I think it is normal play too and possibly
worn a little bit over time. Just needed someone to confirm my suspicion.
I measured the play on the driver's at just over one inch and on the
passenger side, it was right about 1/2 inch. I need to take the Volvo back
to the inspection station and have them fix a leak in the exhaust and
hopefully convince them the play in the seat is normal to finalize the
inspection. We moved to MD from TX 3 years ago. It has been off the road
in the garage since. Just got a 30 day registration to allow me to get it
inspected. Last hurdle is the seat.

--Tom

By the Rules of the Maryland DMV --- cars over 20 years old --- 2020 minus 1991, can apply for Historic Plates. If you don't drive this as a commuter car...Apply for these plates

$55/a year reg fee. No inspections.

yes I live in Md, have an 87 and an 80 245, 244, plated.

Yeah, I've given it some thought. Several folks have suggested it. I am not ready to give in and label the 240 an "old" historic car even though I've owned 240's continuously for 40+ years. That may say something about me not wanting to admit I am old.

well, you are looking at that in the wrong way.

It get's you out of the clutches of the MD DMV, and if you don't think that Fees will be rising...The most recent rise doubled them...think again.

Plus the coming move to EVs and hybrids will Decrease gas consumption which hurts Tax Revenue for the State....the Fees will go even higher to cover the cost of state highways.

Personally, I delayed the change on my wagon even after it aged into the range, as I was using it to haul kayaks back and forth to the mountains, putting miles on it and not wanting to push the Historic designation.

The State added/defined the restrictions on use a few years ago, as people were keeping cars longer and using the designation to avoid emmissions and higher registration fees, after the fees doubled.

Check out The Rules, if you haven't already and base your decision on that.

It's like making sure you take every tax deduction you are allowed.

You can always decide later to change the to Historic.

good luck with your seat.

Push comes to shove - you could put a little tack weld between the pin and the hinge, although I'd bet even with that you'll still have a 1/4" or more movement at the way at the top. Once you've passed - use your handy Dremel cut off wheel to cut the tack weld so adjustability is restored.

Yup, that is my plan exactly