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Help Replacing Strut Tower 200

posted by  Toddlie on  Sat Sep 19 14:13 CST 2020
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last visit: Thu May 8 06:11 CST 2014
[RELATED]

The last time I paid a "professional mechanic" to do the front suspension, when he put the cap back onto the tube, he stripped the threads and I had to have the cap spot welded on.

This will be my first attempt at doing the struts on my own and while I am doing those, I have a replacement strut tower.
(I am having trouble connecting the photos, but they are in the gallery labeled "Strut Tower-01" through "Strut Tower-09")

I have the Bentley and lots of articles from many of the past and present members of this board. Please look at the photos and let me know what you think of the condition of the strut tower and I would also appreciate and other "tips" you might be able to pass along.

Thank you all in advance.









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    Help Replacing Strut Tower - What brand strut cartridge damper? 200

    uid 46171's pic
    posted by  kittysgreyvolvo on  Mon Sep 21 10:07 CST 2020
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    last visit: Sat Oct 18 15:23 CST 2014
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    Sometimes I write dampener and not damper.

    What YEAR 240? I ask as the strut tube assembly has changed.

    Bilstein (B4) Touring front strut damper cartridge is best in front. If 1991 (or so with or without ABS) 240, Bilstein (B6) HD may not fit. Yet Bilstein offers three versions of the Bilstein HD for 240.

    What damper brand was there? Where is the tack weld you mention?

    Depending on brand, such as the sort of terrible made in Mexico Sachs brand soled by iPd as Boge, the gland nut is the issue. I installed a set of iPd Sachs Advantage in 2012 into my 1990 245 li'l red Wagon (no ABS). iPd soled these then as Boge Turbo gas. Boge, in Europa, now owned by ZF (as Sachs is) for some decades, no longer makes the original Boge Turbo Gas for 240.

    Sachs makes the Automatics and the so-called high pressure, and apparently discontinued, Sachs Advantage that iPd would proclaim as Boge Turbo Gas.

    The iPd made in Mexico Sachs gland nuts would not take up torque. These were not made to fit and were defective.

    The 1990 240 li'l red Wagon had the factory installed low pressure made in Germany Boge struts. I reused the Boge gland nuts that had been there since 1989.





    Thread inside the strut assembly appears fine.





    Strut cartridge gland nut thread inside the strut assembly appears fine.


    The hub spindle also appears fine. The grease pack was not regular renewed. You may want to treat the surface rust and refinish.


    The hub spindle appears fine.


    The hub spindle appears fine. The tapered roller bearings ride on the conical or tapered section of the spindle. No scoring of concern from grease pack loss. No excess heat.






    --
    Kittys are fuzzy and sometimes fluffy! Spokane, WA RULES!








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    Help Replacing Strut Tower 200

    posted by  maplebones on  Sat Sep 19 16:57 CST 2020
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    last visit: Thu Oct 23 22:53 CST 2014
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    Hi Toddlie,

    Looks fine to me. What year is your car and what years is the tube out of ?
    I think the wheel bearings changed in 80,or 81 in the 240.

    good luck,
    Peter








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      Help Replacing Strut Tower 200

      posted by  Toddlie on  Sun Sep 20 07:44 CST 2020
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      last visit: Thu May 8 06:11 CST 2014
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      Peter,

      Thank you for taking time to look. Mine is a 1990 245 Wagon with almost 356,000 on the clock. The strut tower I believe is out of a 1988 or 1989 Sedan. I was just going to try to swap tubes but they seem to be unable to be removed. So, I am just going to try and place everything from the old tower to the new one. I have a few new parts to replace but I was just going to take the hub and bearings and move them over to the new tower.

      I would much rather just try all of this myself rather than paying someone else (an outrageous amount of money) to mess it up again.








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        Help Replacing Strut Tower 200

        posted by  MichaelYount on  Sun Sep 20 08:03 CST 2020
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        For what it’s worth - the tube, threaded at the top that holds your damper insert is called the “strut tube”. The nut that screws on the top is called the gland nut. The swivel bearing at the top of the strut assembly (has 3 studs that poke through into the engine compartment) is called the strut bearing. The “strut tower” is the sheet metal part of the inner fender/engine compartment that the strut bearing bolts into. To remove/replace the “strut tower” requires drilling out a bunch of spot welds and then welding a replacement back in. Your terminology was throwing me off the trail.

        You should be able to take a strut tube (and spindle assembly) off a similar car and replace your tube with the mangled threads. Just examine closely to be sure it’s the same. Some earlier cars had smaller spindles, some tubes have spacers in the bottom.







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