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Weird cluster idiot lights behavior 200 1982

This morning started the car as usual and no cluster light came on. This a 240 1982 dl with B21A engine.

Here is what I did and tested - with cluster fuse 13 ok (12 .5 volt), engine stopped and switch on KP11:

- no battery idiot light

- no brake failure light

- no bulb failure light

- oil pressure light on

- parking brake light on

- chime working with door open

- started engine, no charge, stayed at 12.5 volt, I tried to exite the alternator using a 1.5 watt bulb at the alternator, still 12.5 volt.

- tried 4 other spare bulb failure sensors with same part number, 1235271 which was the original one. No change.

I replaced the alternator with anew reconditioned one and started the engine. Voltmeter shows 14.1 volt.

Engine stopped and turned switch on KP11,

- no battery light, no brake failure light, no bulb failure light.

Started engine. I noticed that alternator hesitate one second or two before the voltage get to normal 14.1 volt.

I wonder if the cluster board has damaged diodes which could cause these idiot lights not being tested with switch at position KP11.

Brake failure, bulb failure lights being defectives does not bother me that much. But battery exciter light worries me very much. I am afraid the alternator could very well not charge sometime without that small voltage.

I could replace damaged diodes if it is the case. Or connect a temporary exciter bulb direct on the alternator so I don't get stranded.

Thanks for your suggestions.








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    Weird cluster idiot lights behavior 200 1981

    When the key is in position KPII, all the warning lights get 12V thru fuse 13. When the engine is off, the exciter wire provides a ground for all the exciter lights thru the alternator.

    If you remove the exciter wire from the alternator and touch it to ground, all the warning lights should turn on. Also, check that the alternator case is grounded to the engine block. There should be a ground strap between the alternator case to the engine block.

    If all the warning lights turn on then there is a problem with the alternator or its ground strap.

    If all the warning lights don't turn on then there is a break in the exciter wire between the alternator and the dash.








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      Weird cluster idiot lights behavior 200 1982

      "spot on"

      The only thing I can add is from experience: Don't try to ground the red exciter wire to the alternator frame itself. Two reasons.

      One, John mentioned, it may not be grounded by the short wire between it and the motor mount bracket bolt, and two, the oxide formed on the aluminum case is pretty tough to penetrate for a reliable connection.

      It is easiest to bring your own jumper wire and run it from the braided ground at the firewall and cam cover to the terminal on the exciter wire. For a car that old, suspect a break, if it is one, in the 8-pin gray connector above and behind the motor.
      --
      Art Benstein near Baltimore

      "I've learned more from my kids than they ever learned from me."








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        Weird cluster idiot lights behavior , problem solved 200 1982

        Thank you all for your answers. This afternoon I tracked the problem. As you suggested a bad red wire was the problem.

        The copper core was broken inside insulation at the alternator spade.

        This intermitant problem was bugging me, once in a while many weird things showed up.

        - bulb failure flashing togetter with left turn signal

        - all warning lights turning on one minute after leaving home; I stopped the car, shut the engine, checked fuse 13 (sometime burned and sometime ok)

        - only oil pressure light on at KP11, sometime no light at all

        - bulb failure flashing with left turn signal on and brake pedal down, back to normal when pedal is released.

        I need a oil pressure switch. This one is not working all the time. I may have been responsible for its failure.

        Many years ago I connected a small buzzer that worked along with the warning light when oil pressure is low. I probably should have put a diode on the wire that came from the cluster to prevent back current. My electronic knoledge is very limited.

        Also the buzzer may have been too hard on the oil pressure switch. This setup worked around 10 years without problem.

        Anyhow everything should be good now, car will reach 500k km ( 312k miles) in a couple of weeks.

        Thanks again because I was going to replace the instrument cluster thinking the diodes were shot.







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