Solved!!!
Couple days attempting a no start fix I could not get 12v while cranking at the lower terminal fuse 11 and also at the fuel pump end in the trunk ( wires 1 and 4 ) . I did not have sparks at the plugs either. The first attempted fix was to install a new aftermarket Crank position sensor (CPS). Still no start . Relays were swapped , installed a new ICM and spare coil that I had , even an inexpensive CPU from ebay..still no start. I disconnected all wire couplings in the engine bay . cleaned and reinstalled. The fuse and relay block inside the car the seemed intact...no burnt areas or disconnected wires.... THEN I had an idea ..this from one of you guys , Blindboy , I believe.The old CPS had lost its outer black protective sheathing so I wrapped it with aluminum foil and taped it up with electrical tape. I reinstalled the old CPS and the car started! So the new aftermarket CPS did not work for me and all along after its installment I was swapping things around when in fact the new one was bad. So assuming there wasn't any thing wrong with the old cps , which component was bad? I proceeded to disconnect and reconnect each component that I had installed and it came down to be a bad coil. Yes a bad coil! So now I have a spare ICM and cpu at hand. All is good for now . Thanks all for your input.

Bendix makes some good stuff then. Bendix makes the Regina injection ECU / Rex ignition ECU.

If you've not yet swapped ECU or disconnect the battery since the no-star happened, you check codes and inspect for things like the faulty CPS or fuel injection relay and so forth:

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

You also have that fuse an relay board or box or platform behind the ashtray. This item at the age of your 1991 Bendix Rex ignition / Regina injection, or any any 900 series, should be inspected for heat related damage from excess current draw and faulty connection corrosion that creates heat.

I'm unsure, yet the Bendix Regina fuel pump relay, different from the white Bosch LH-Jetronic fuel pump relay, may suffer from issues like broken solder welds. Easy to open these Regina fuel pump relays, and, with magnification, just like the 700 / 900 FAQ Bosch white fuel pump relay, may have solder weld cracks you can reflow.

As for the CPS, if the insulation sheath is failing, replace the CPS.
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Kittys are fuzzy and sometimes fluffy! Spokane, WA RULES!

I keep a sparkplug in the car so that I can check for spark without tools.

I actually keep old ignition parts and other things like old wiper blades in case something breaks - think of how easy it is for someone to steal your new wiper blades.

Behind the fuses is the fuel pump relay. Its on the left side and is white. Take out the cigarette lighter/storage tray (2 screws behind the cigarette lighter cover) and you can pull that relay out. Take the case off it and look for cracked solder joints. You should 100% hear the pump prime when you first turn the key to run.

Did the no-start just suddenly happen or has it been intermittent?
Are the plugs wet or dry?
Is the cam turning, as in possible broken timing belt? (I know the symptoms don’t exactly point to this but hey, it’s easy to check.)

Fuse 1 provides power to fuse 11 via the fuel pump relay
The relay must be in good condition otherwise insert a known good spare
All wire connections from fuse 1 to relay to fuse 11 must be sound

You might have to take out the entire fuse panel, turn it over and check all connections below it
Some connection could be burnt from overheating
Overheating could melt the surrounding plastic holding the fuse causing loose fitting fuse
Loose fitting fuse causes more overheating
Its vicious cycle over the years
It could not be repaired as the plastic has become brittle with heat
Like you said its could be something long overdue

You might have to look for spare fuse panel just in case

Regards,
Amarin.

I don't see where you checked for spark.
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