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i came across a 91 240 with the m47. worth it to swap? i'm not sure whether to install it in my 86 or 92 240. the 92 is LH2.4.
thanks,
byron golden
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ok, made a >2min youtube video to help with the diagnosis, earlier today.
here the link to a youtube video I created earlier today.
https://youtu.be/7lhnb-wzNRg
three of 4 bearings are available but at about $50/ea. some euro companies could have the 4th bearing.
anybody familiar with this bearings rolling around its case? junk?
thanks as always to your help,
byron
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I can only say, hell yeah it's worth it, with provisos! I've had only one slushbox 240 since 1979, all the others have been sticks. In my opinion, a manual X-mission makes a 240 into an entirely different car.
I still have a '93 auto wagon and I am the only one in my household who drives it without whining. I am also the only one who has spent a Saturday night wrestling a greasy gearbox into place after a clutch kit install.
I'll admit, a stick 240 is a lot more fun to drive, but there's nothing wrong with the auto. Even in the winter the auto (with new Nokians mounted) will churn through a foot of fresh snow like a stick.
Only you can decide if it's worth the swap. Realistically, how many more years will you be driving a 240? How youthful are you, i.e., how much energy do you have for such projects? As you can imagine, the list goes on.
By the way, I once pulled the good running gear from a '75 242 stick which I had used to center-punch a Ford F-250 and planted the pieces into a 260 auto which had an engine fire. The task was not exactly easy but, eventually all things went together.
That was in the early 80's. Today, I'd say fuggetaboutit!
Rich (near The Burgh)
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hi rich,
yes, i'm keeping my cars. i presume i can continue working on cars for another 15 years, way into retirement.
thanks,
byron
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thanks y'all. the car is sitting up, and i have no idea what condition the tranny is in.
so, i should get the flywheel off the donor car, along with the pedals, stick, and driveshaft.
question, i've read mating the tranny to the 3.73 rear is ok, thanks kgv.
fortunately, i've got the volvo green book manual on the m46-47 trannies.
it's darn hot here in the houston area. i have a week or two to pull it before it's gone.
thanks,
byron golden
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Make sure you also get the wire connector that shorts together or shall I say takes the place of neutral safety switch that is on an auto. If you don't, the car will never start until you complete that circuit.
Its located on the left side of the center console, close to where the reverse light wires run up from the transmission gear shift.
When you do get the transmission out, take the top cover off just to make sure none of the gears are blown apart. This won't tell you if you have any bearing issues, which you might, but it will at least tell you that you have all the gears intact.
When you go to take the flywheel off, if you don't have an impact gun, you will need to lock the engine so that you can spin the bolts off. The bolts may be 6 pt, or they may be a hex key. If hex key, replace them with 6pt when you put it back together. The flywheel goes back on a certain way for 89 to 93 cars, and the engine needs to be at TDC for it to work, pre-89, won't matter, or shouldn't.
Regards,
Matt
--
1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245
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hi matt,
thanks, important info i didn't know about. i'm still reviewing diagrams, spare parts, and repairing.
the flywheel has hex bolts.
questions about the wire connector.
1. do you know the color of the wires (assuming it's a 2-wire connector)?
2. you're saying to get the pigtail, correct?
i plan on installing the m47 in my 86 245 and it doesn't have the neutral safety switch. i'll get the wiring anyway because i may put it in my 92 245.
when i remove the auto flywheel bolts, i use a quick hammer blow to loosen. i'll see how i can lock the engine. belts are off.
i'll check the gears from the top.
question about hex bolt.
1. do you know what size hex key? i have metric, and i can bring them all, just in case.
i'll have a lot more questions on wiring and other things.
next is the flywheel and the pedal box. is the pedal box difficult to remove? i've read to go through the dash to get to some of the bolts.
questions on the pedals.
1. the gas pedal doesn't have to change out, only the brake pedal, correct?
2. i see that the clutch pedal has bolts too, is the 240 pre-threaded for the clutch pedal bolts?
thanks,
byron
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BCG,
"when i remove the auto flywheel bolts, i use a quick hammer blow to loosen. i'll see how i can lock the engine. belts are off."
Use the old rope trick in number #1 cylinder to hold the engine in place.
"question about hex bolt.
1. do you know what size hex key? i have metric, and i can bring them all, just in case."
No I do not. It is on the larger side.
":next is the flywheel and the pedal box. is the pedal box difficult to remove? i've read to go through the dash to get to some of the bolts."
Yes, in my opinion, the pedal box is a PITA to remove and install, thus the reason that I remove the dash. It doesn't take the long, and its just easier.
If the car has cruise, get all of those odds and ends too.
"questions on the pedals.
1. the gas pedal doesn't have to change out, only the brake pedal, correct?"
No gas pedal needed
"2. i see that the clutch pedal has bolts too, is the 240 pre-threaded for the clutch pedal bolts?"
All 240's are set up for a manual, so all the holes are already there.
Matt
--
1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245
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hi matt,
probably saved me a bunch of time. i'll remove the dash.
great, i'm all set to remove the last bits.
that's another reason why i keep my volvos, these cars are set up for all kinds of things: dash gauges, manual trans, cruise control, etc.
thanks, going this morning to finish up.
regards,
byron
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questions about the wire connector.
1. do you know the color of the wires (assuming it's a 2-wire connector)?
2. you're saying to get the pigtail, correct?
The connector is already present in your car. You disconnect the neutral safety switch, aka the start inhibitor, before removing the AT and put a jumper wire between the two terminals on that connector.
I think Matthew is saying grab that jumper wire from the donor car so you don't have to fashion one yourself. It's just a piece of wire that makes a U shape when installed. You can't miss it unless it's already been removed which is unlikely.
It should be easy enough to make one, though.
--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon, '15 XC70 T6 AWD
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hi don, got it. thanks for the clarification! i know what i'm looking for, now.
byron
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Don't forget the clutch cable, the pilot bearing (inexpensive item maybe best bought new-but you may want the snap-ring that retains it on the crankshaft) and the trans crossmember + mount. Take the entire driveshaft and mark the halves first so it will remain in balance. - Dave
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hi dave, just got back from the yard.
1. lower part of the drive shaft has a ding in it, dented. the car ran over something bad enough to bend the control arm and shear it a little bit.
i see that the the crossmember is much different and had pulled it.
2. i had to break some of the plastic end of the clutch cable to remove it from it's pin holder at the clutch and to pull it through the cable holder. it was cracked anyway.
3. looks like a hard part is pulling the pedals.
nothing's bought yet. will purchase everything at one time.
questions:
a. about the lower drive shaft, it appears to be larger than rear shafts from auto trannies, correct?
b. can i mate the upper shaft with my current auto tranny shaft?
c. the flywheel on auto trannies have 4 bolts securing to the torque converter. surely, no torque converter, so can I just pull the flywheel with the tranny and separate from the engine? i presume the flywheel is bolted to the engine journal.
d. i notice that the clutch cable has a dedicated hole in the firewall that's not on auto tranny cars. i guess i'll have to drill one.
hadn't pull it all the way. i didn't have my 18mm non-ratchet wrench with me. my reversable wrench won't fit in the low-clearance bell.
thanks,
byron golden
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I'll answer what I can although I'm not real familiar with M47 equipped models. First off, I'd take the dented rear shaft - the dent may not mean anything balance wise--and you'll know soon enough when it's all together. That way you know you have a rear section to fit the front - or something to match up in the event you do need a different rear section. I hope you marked them because the front and rear are balanced together. If the connection at the M47 is by normal U-joint there are only two solutions to the front section/rear section alignment--one will be balanced , the other not. If you have the rubber disc type joint then there are as many solutions as there are splines in the rear shaft extension. If you use your original AW70 rear shaft you will likely have to have the two sections balanced (driveshaft specialty shops).
For your questions
a. I do not know the specifics. Measure the diameter of the M47 driveshaft rear flange--and that of the differential flange on your car.
b. See the explanation in the first paragraph.
c. I'm not sure about the phrasing of this question. You have to remove the four bolts holding the torque converter to the flexplate so the TC comes out with the transmission. That exposes the 8 bolts holding the flexplate to the crankshaft. Stick shift flywheels do not use the steel spacer you'll find behind the auto flexplate.
d. It is possible to change over the firewall insert but that's a big job. Be careful to drill the hole the same size as in the M47 equipped car or the clutch cable will not be secure. All pre-1986 240's had provision for stick shift cable and stick shift hydraulic operated clutches with cover plates and rubber grommets.
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BCG,
If you have no whine in any of the gears, then yes, well worth the investment in time and maybe some money to swap it in.
I swapped out my 89' slush-o-matic once it failed in 2013 at 330k, and tossed in a junk yard M47.
The car now has on it 390k and the transmission is bullet proof, though it is weak, I would never put this thing behind a turbo as KittysGreyVolvo has stated.
I would like to say that KittysGreyVolvo may not be completely correct on the car being an LH-Jetronic 3.1. The short answer is, maybe. You'll have to check the AMM or TPS for sure as they are different from the LH-Jetronic 2.4. I learned this lesson the hard way when I stated what Kitty did and was quickly put in my place.
Any ways, good luck with it if you decide to move forward with it. It took me about a month of working nights to get it all done. It was very nice once it was in and very responsive as opposed the slush-o-matic that came out of it.
Regards,
Matt
--
1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245
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M47 doesn't care what LH series you have, there are no electronics associated with either auto or manual transmissions.
Dan
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hi dan,
being new to man trans, that was an early question, and i didn't know.
thanks,
byron
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Byron
I'm not sure what your question is?
Dan
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hi dan,
made a mistake, meant to put it under your previous post.
i was referring to your reply on trannies and lh systems.
regards,
byron
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OK but what is the question>
Dan
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hi dan,
made a mistake, meant to put it under your previous post.
i was referring to your reply on trannies and lh systems.
regards,
byron
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Dan,
I know that.
I'm just stating that just because it a 91' with an M47, does NOT mean it is an LH 3.1, but could be. I have a 91', with an M47, and it is an LH 3.1, but 2.4 also exist.
You just can't assume that, as I did a few posts back.
Matt
--
1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245
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The difference in ignition systems may not make any difference to the transmission but it may make a difference to the ignition system. The standard shift flywheel has the timing "cage" riveted to it and I believe there are differences depending on the ignition system. If the ignition systems are different I would be very careful be sure the flywheels (stick shift to stick shift) are the same for both ignition systems. It would not be fun to find out your car wont run after you have it buttoned up. If they are different (the stick shift flywheels) you'll need to either find the right flywheel - or swap the ignition system. -- Dave
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Hi again Byron "bcg" Golden!
Please read here (copy and paste URL into new browser tab or window):
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1674184/240_m47_swap_79_series.html
Are you in 'smog happy' California? Hope not.
If a 49-state (not CA-state) 240 with M47 II, that 1991 will come fitted with the LH-Jetronic 3.1 injection and the same EZK116 ignition (crank position sensor!) fitted to North America US-market 240s from 1989 to (sadly) final year 1993 240.
So, see the bell housing notch to accommodate the crank position sensor (CPS) bolt-on bracket at the back of the engine block. The 1991 M47 II bell housing includes this notch.
You can fit this M47 II, so far as I recall, to either your 1986 240 or and your 1992 240.
1986, as you know, uses the Bosck EZK117 (? 115 is Turbo, yes?) ignition with the in-distributor impulse 'Hall-Effect' sensor used to report engine rotation position to ignition and injection. You can fit it and no need, again, so far as I know, to worry of plug the top of the bellhousing notch.
Shift all manual transmission bits from the donor 1991 240 including clutch pedal box, cable, and I guess flywheel, certainly driveshaft and guibo (not giubo as Art B. corrects us) flex coupler disk, transmission support bracket, flywheel, and so forth.
With such an endeavor, may want to closely inspect the donor M47 II for abuse and wear by inspecting (1) fill and (2) drain plugs to see how full of silver the conical magnet loads inside one or both plugs may be. How is the fluid on draining? Can you drive this 1991 240 and listen to it as it drives? The clutch cable there is adjusted for proper free play of 3-5 mm at the throwout arm?
Please search for article here about this auto to manual swap for 240. Also, you will want to seek same at the Turbobricks website.
If not a CA-state 240, as a 49-state 240, that 1991 240 may come fitted with the Bosch LH-Jetronic 3.1 injection paired with the the same Bosch EZK116 (CPS) ignition.
Consider seal replacement of the gearbox proper and the '5th gear' rear splash chamber, the top plate seal, the gear selector shaft seal at the back wall of the gearbox proper, and the input seal. You can perform other checks such as input shaft free play and maybe synchro and main and lay shaft play also.
Else, the aforementioned link to the recent article, maybe the 700-900 FAQ entries on the M47 gearbox, and searching for 240 from AW7x and M47 can help.
Certain others here can help.
And use the clutch pedal to shift only. Do press a clutch pedal for an extended period like at stop lights or RxR crossing waiting for the train to pass by. Bad for clutch components and M47.
Also, M47 is best for normally aspired B230. So stock B230. No Turbo or (ugh) +Turbo redblock engine in front. M47 is a rather frail gearbox and is best with a gentle shift yet winds up nicely in 3rd gear for freeway on-ramp merging.
Also forgot in the linked article above. The rear axle final drive ratio is different between factory-fitted AW7x automatic and factory fitted manual transmission. IIRC, the automatic transmission final drive diff ratio is lower and in gearbox equipped 240, the final drive is taller? Or vice versa.
OH! Here goes! A Turbobricks thread treating this issue of 240 swap from AW7x to M47 (or M46) and living with or swapping gears from the manual donor car diff to the recipient 240.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=152012
As for worth it, I personally dunno. All 240s I've owned since August 1984 were manual gearbox equipped. Yet would no want an auto 240 or 700/900.
Questions?
Hope that halps yoooo!!!!!
Gots Me Some Buttermilk (yet no Sourdough bread) Boyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Hi again Byron "bcg" Golden!
Please read here (copy and paste URL into new browser tab or window):
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1674184/240_m47_swap_79_series.html
Are you in 'smog happy' California? Hope not.
If a 49-state (not CA-state) 240 with M47 II, that 1991 will come fitted with the LH-Jetronic 3.1 injection and the same EZK116 ignition (crank position sensor!) fitted to North America US-market 240s from 1989 to (sadly) final year 1993 240.
LH3.1 was fitted to M47 cars California or not. I'm pretty sure only 90, 91, and 92. In 93 they were all LH2.4, standard or automatic. What I'm unsure about is 89.
So, see the bell housing notch to accommodate the crank position sensor (CPS) bolt-on bracket at the back of the engine block. The 1991 M47 II bell housing includes this notch.
You can fit this M47 II, so far as I recall, to either your 1986 240 or and your 1992 240.
1986, as you know, uses the Bosck EZK117 (? 115 is Turbo, yes?) ignition with the in-distributor impulse 'Hall-Effect' sensor used to report engine rotation position to ignition and injection. You can fit it and no need, again, so far as I know, to worry of plug the top of the bellhousing notch.
The 1986 240 uses Volvo/Chrysler ignition, not Bosck. You're thinking of the 7-series, but yes, the Hall sensor does the timing.
Shift all manual transmission bits from the donor 1991 240 including clutch pedal box, cable, and I guess flywheel, certainly driveshaft and guibo (not giubo as Art B. corrects us) flex coupler disk, transmission support bracket, flywheel, and so forth.
The word is "giubo" not gweebo. Joo-bo. Perhaps not among all the folks working at the parts counter, though. LOL
With such an endeavor, may want to closely inspect the donor M47 II for abuse and wear by inspecting (1) fill and (2) drain plugs to see how full of silver the conical magnet loads inside one or both plugs may be. How is the fluid on draining? Can you drive this 1991 240 and listen to it as it drives? The clutch cable there is adjusted for proper free play of 3-5 mm at the throwout arm?
Drive it??? Funny.
Please search for article here about this auto to manual swap for 240. Also, you will want to seek same at the Turbobricks website.
If not a CA-state 240, as a 49-state 240, that 1991 240 may come fitted with the Bosch LH-Jetronic 3.1 injection paired with the the same Bosch EZK116 (CPS) ignition.
Again, see above. Either emissions market is defined by EGR in the 90s 240s, not fuel management version. But, making type of transmission distinction, for both LH3.1 and LH2.4, there is a jumper option which enables the shift indicator lamp in the instrument panel at the violet wire from pin 26 on the fuel ECU.
Consider seal replacement of the gearbox proper and the '5th gear' rear splash chamber, the top plate seal, the gear selector shaft seal at the back wall of the gearbox proper, and the input seal. You can perform other checks such as input shaft free play and maybe synchro and main and lay shaft play also.
Else, the aforementioned link to the recent article, maybe the 700-900 FAQ entries on the M47 gearbox, and searching for 240 from AW7x and M47 can help.
Certain others here can help.
Certainly
And use the clutch pedal to shift only. Do press a clutch pedal for an extended period like at stop lights or RxR crossing waiting for the train to pass by. Bad for clutch components and M47.
I think you meant to say put the gearshift in neutral and take the strain off of the clutch while you wait for the freight. Right?
Also, M47 is best for normally aspired B230. So stock B230. No Turbo or (ugh) +Turbo redblock engine in front. M47 is a rather frail gearbox and is best with a gentle shift yet winds up nicely in 3rd gear for freeway on-ramp merging.
Also forgot in the linked article above. The rear axle final drive ratio is different between factory-fitted AW7x automatic and factory fitted manual transmission. IIRC, the automatic transmission final drive diff ratio is lower and in gearbox equipped 240, the final drive is taller? Or vice versa.
OH! Here goes! A Turbobricks thread treating this issue of 240 swap from AW7x to M47 (or M46) and living with or swapping gears from the manual donor car diff to the recipient 240.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=152012
As for worth it, I personally dunno. All 240s I've owned since August 1984 were manual gearbox equipped. Yet would no want an auto 240 or 700/900.
Questions?
Hope that halps yoooo!!!!!
Gots Me Some Buttermilk (yet no Sourdough bread) Boyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Hiya Uncle Art!
Thank you kindly Uncle Art for the edits!
I think you meant to say put the gearshift in neutral and take the strain off of the clutch while you wait for the freight. Right?
Yessssssire!!!!!
Stack train or Roscoe P. Coaltrain, Oiltrain, and toytrain!
Should you ever need documentation .... CAD models and software APIs!!!
Hope BCG is merrily moving that M47 along!
Appears I can finally haz technical writer job. No need to sell the Volvo 240s. Sold nearly all else first yet not to the point of the Marx-Marline and Lionel Hodge Podge 027 and 0 gauge 1930s to 1970s model railway layout bits.
With destination CO-state as an outcome in a year or so. Can't stand the slovenly ville humidity. Love the high elevations that offer a real winter. Or to the North. Or north and higher elevation together. More sunglasses and sunblock action. Else I'll be a french fry!!!
Uncle Old Duke is on his Summer-Time Saturn driving brickboard hiatus again!
Sold the set of four GL Corona wheels. Sort of hurt a I wanted to restore these properly. Not cheap!
Sure Happy it's Happy Friday Eve!
Founder's All Day IPA boyeeeeeeee. (No more motoring today!)
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hi kittysgreyvolvo (thanks art for the edits),
sorry for the late reply, pulling the tranny in stages over days; the heat is a killer here.
kittiesgreyvolvo has some good points along with the rest of the links; i've been reviewing other links, too (special tools, turbobricks, etc). thanks.
also, i've been reviewing my digital green books on spare parts and service for the m47.
to your points:
1. fortunately, my 86 non-turbo and the donor car (NH) car are 49-state.
2. yes, using the m47 in the 86, no need to worry about the cps. but i do want the option to put in my 92, possibly later, though.
3. "...there is a jumper option which enables the shift indicator lamp in the instrument panel at the violet wire from pin 26 on the fuel ECU." ah, didn't know that, thanks.
4. about how far of a service should i do, i've already written down p/n and sources for bearings, seals, etc. actually, that's my next step, investigate how much to do. i don't have special tools to go too deeply into the tranny, but i would want to replace bearings and seals as you mentioned while it's out.
5. yes, i'm mating the m47 to a normally-aspirated 240. i did have questions about the gear ratio, but it appears that my diff will be ok.
6. manny trannies are rare down here, first one i've seen in a 240 in the jy. i did open the top plate and checked the gears for wear and any metal filings in the fluid, didn't see any, of course checked before purchasing.
i'm not sure if it's worth it, too, even still. after purchasing, i reviewed the t5 tranny and would want to go with a rebuilt one, but it's the investment. the wife not pleased with spending money on those upgrades, but i may some time later. i think, of what i read, that's the best option because of it's robustness and ease of rebuild, relatively.
so, yes, you preceded my questions on what to service. i would want to replace these bearings inside and check for play.
i'll start a new thread on service, soon, and i'll submit an image or two of the tranny to see if anyone can spot anything wrong. I'm not going to replace the current auto tranny anytime soon, though, when they're all working fine, and it's such a mess swapping trannies.
i did pull everything. just jumping into it and getting it done.
thanks,
byron
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"3. "...there is a jumper option which enables the shift indicator lamp in the instrument panel at the violet wire from pin 26 on the fuel ECU." ah, didn't know that, thanks."
That jumper trades the automatic's overdrive-off indicator for the manual's gear change indicator. This indicator logic got built into the LH2.4 and LH3.1 ECU, so the jumper applies to 89+ models using those fuel systems.
Now I see you've chosen to convert your 86. The 86 used the M46 in its standard shift cars, so those had a separate device called the "shift indicator control unit" to operate the upshift (gear change) indicator on the instrument cluster. It uses the tach wire (white/red) to get the RPM info and operates the up-arrow you presently have to show the automatic has OD disabled. (yellow/red)
Probably, you don't need Volvo to tell you when to shift.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
"Don't allow nobody on deck,..." Capt. Ernest M. McSorely
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hi art,
ha, yes, my first couple of cars had been stick. learned when to shift the hard way.
important documentation if i ever go to a m46 and for others. didn't know that.
thanks,
byron
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hi art,
excellent. i have a couple of new car features sources, green book (1986) tp 30778/1 and in digital form year 87 tp 31031/1 and 86, tp 30878/1. although these sources have a few new tranny features, none show the m47 this thoroughly.
in other words, i have service and parts digital green books, but these illustrations showing the gear functions, etc, go far beyond what i have. yes, while removing the tranny, i recognized immediately the number of differences, such as the rubber pads on the crossmember.
i'm a bit surprised that i don't have this new car feature in my volvo digital books.
about the tranny, i've been torn whether to keep it or not, everything including the core charges, came to about $360. i could buy a couple of auto trannies for that.
the gears look good, but one of the bearings is loose, which can be seen in your illustration on p. 19, illustration 140841, left from the washer and before the 5th gear.
i did find that bearing on ebay overseas, but they're asking for 250 euros + shipping. i can't justify that.
i believe part of polymer bearing cage has broken between two bearings. i'm looking to possibly find an aftermarket replacement or maybe the skf bearing number.
i won't install it anytime soon. i'm still checking it out for other problems.
thanks for the clarity and sharing. i'll need to get these printed to stick in my green books.
thanks,
byron
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Hi Byron,
My sentiments exactly on Art’s post! Had to jump on that little hand, to give him a thumbs up wave!
I didn’t know these transmissions went back to 1987!
I knew there were two versions though but I have never seen one. I think the first was a short lived run.
I wonder who made these boxes as I have three, two do not have Volvo, in small letters, casted on the right side down in between the ribs.
My 1990 JY one does, so it suggests that Volvo sublet the control of quality elsewhere.
This maybe why the lack of documentation.
I have been writing on a post in my notes program to add in your threads.
I was trying to address my concerns of the lack of information out there.
Now I will have to go in and revise it to read completely different.
His post might seem short but that was a lot more than I have ever seen!
I too, want to do what you are doing.
I’m all in, on getting the actual bearing numbers before tearing things open.
This will give US an idea of what diameters we are dealing with and the style bearings they used.
It has been my thing, in the past, to modify things in the R&D world.
In this case I’m seeing that there was a scramble to do this, that I was putting in my other post .
I was working it in order to talk to you that our line of thinking are parallel with your logical thinking about two automatics for a price of $360.
I purchased my spare manual transmission with a complete engine and accessories attached for around that much ten years ago.
The Speedo said 132,000 but I think it was a bit short or the transmission wasn’t maintained nicely. It has a small noise that I was going to talk about.
I agree that the bearing for 250 Euros is going to make sure they keep it in stock!
Lots of things can be worked around, I hope?
An adage applies here, “if there is a will, there is a way!”
I hope to keep up with this communication thread to see what path to take.
I loved the YouTube as you did good with it!
Phil
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Hi Byron,
Those pages came from TP30994/1 "New Car Features 1987 USA and Canada 240 DL, GL" if that helps in the mystery.
I'd help on the decision you're making if I knew squat about servicing the manual transmission. Never had one apart yet. I say "yet" because I have an M46 in an 83 242 that isn't asking me to disassemble it at this time. Haven't even had the experience of driving an M47-equipped car.
So far I'm impressed with the progress you've made identifying this M47's needs without having it all apart on the workbench. Way beyond my skills!
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
THE FOUR STAGES OF LIFE:
1) You believe in Santa Claus.
2) You don't believe in Santa Claus.
3) You are Santa Claus.
4) You look like Santa Claus.
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thanks for the kind words, art. no, i don't think that way, i'm just poking around with it. we all jump in with no training and let the oracles of bb guide us to the promise land.
unbelievably, my brother had an 87 with an m46 which i didn't take at the time. he sold it to the junk yard. free tranny and i regretted it ever since.
hence, my fanatic work in pulling this one out of the yard. took me days in the texas heat. fortunately, our heat has broken for the next few days and time to get to open it up.
thanks for the tp number, maybe later i'll come across it. i'll check later to see if it's still available.
best,
byron
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