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Engine Rebuild - lower end bearings

posted by  Will740turbo on  Sat Jul 25 20:09 CST 2020
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last visit: Wed Oct 22 16:09 CST 2014
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Hey, everyone.

I'm slowly (glacially) rebuilding my 1994 b230ft do put into a 740gle wagon.

The head work is all done, and I am trying to assess parts needed for the bottom end.

I have a copy of the manual tp30871/1 and am using it for guidance, but I've never rebuilt any engine before.






I think I mushed the plastigage on the lower bearing because I torqued the rod bolts without shimming it to keep it from moving left to right. I am going to replace these bearings, but I am not entirely sure how to find out what size they are currently. The manual says they came in 3 colors, one being yellow. I see a part number 1357490 on it and a production date 03-93 and another number 9689. The only color I see on this is maybe yellow, but I honestly am not sure. This engine had 140,000 miles on it, and I believe I put another 80-130,000 or so on it. I don't recall the exact mileage when I put it into my former (RIP) car.

Can the more experienced folks give me some insight on this? The wear on the top bearing is interesting, but doesn't concern me. The apparent taper on the bottom makes me hope it is from me not keeping the rod from moving when I torqued the bolts.



Happy bricking!







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    Engine Rebuild - lower end bearings

    posted by  porkface on  Sun Jul 26 12:30 CST 2020
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 09:12 CST 2014
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    give the crank to a machine shop. at that mileage, it may need to be turned to be round again. first oversize is .010 us or .25mm. good luck, chuck.








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      Engine Rebuild - lower end bearings

      posted by  Will740turbo on  Thu Jul 30 17:23 CST 2020
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      last visit: Wed Oct 22 16:09 CST 2014
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      Hey, thanks to you and Volvo from Heck for responding.

      I re-measured them yesterday, and they all measure just a little smaller than 0.002" on the red plastigage. I will re-measure with green plastigage.

      The trick is to shim the connecting rod so it can't move side to side (axially, along the long axis of the crankshaft) when you torque the rod bolts. There is a lot more axial clearance (like 2-3mm vs <1mm) on the low-friction later b2x0 engines than b2x engines. I'm not sure about early b2x0 engines.

      The range for rod bearing radial (from the perspective of the crankshaft) clearance is 0.0009-0.0026. I'm still trying to find the "color code", which is apparently on the edge of the bearing shell. I don't have a micrometer.


      I am getting tempted to take the whole thing to a machine shop to get the bores cleaned up and things measured - it would be cheaper than buying all the micrometers and and a dingleberry hone.


      Cheers







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      Engine Rebuild - lower end bearings

      posted by  Volvo From Heck on  Sun Jul 26 20:40 CST 2020
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      last visit: Mon Oct 13 20:56 CST 2014
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      If you do that (turn the crank) --don't do it till you have the bearings in hand so the machine shop cuts the right amount. -- Dave








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        Engine Rebuild - lower end bearings

        posted by  Will740turbo on  Fri Aug 14 15:09 CST 2020
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        last visit: Wed Oct 22 16:09 CST 2014
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        I did not understand this at first, but it makes sense now.

        Machine shop says:
        + Crank and rod bearings can stay standard size, just polished the crank.

        + Bores are a little egg-shaped 3-5 thousandths and tolerance is 4 thousandths according to the manual, but 2.5 according to him (I might be reading it wrong).

        - Recommending overbore and new pistons 10 thousandths over, but the boring is 200 and oversize pistons (with rings) are another 200 in parts. Kind of pricey. I know the turbobricks guys would say it's fine, but ... I mean, I *can* afford it for now, but I don't want to spend gobs of money on it if it doesn't need it. I never heard any piston slap at all from this engine ever. I may make a new post about this.







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