Hello Again,

Thanks all who replied for my last post about window regulator motor functionality.

This one is just an exploratory post about AC compressor pump and entire system removal. On my particular volvo '89, about 10 years ago, yes I've had her for more than 10 years, (alot longer than any other 'her...haha') I had the system recharged and it worked for a day or two and then drained out somewhere and my mechanic at the time said it would be costly to fix the leak and do the retrofit to a new whole system that doesn't use the toxic chemical free-on or whatever is in there.

SO, in light of that tidbit, I'm about to replace my power steering pump and was thinking how nice and easy it would be to:
1) get at the power steering hose connections to the steering rack without the big lunky AC unit in the way AND
2) how much more streamlined and sexy (car sexy you pervs) it would be without a completely non-functioning unit in the engine bay.

IT RAISES ISSUES HOWEVER:

1) The danger of breaking the AC lines out and exposing one's self to the toxic whatever chemical is in them
2) WIll the car still function without the hoses and condenser/drier/lines, etc.
3) No more belt for the power steering motor....HOWEVER...IPD sells a AC deletion kit that attaches to the block in the same spot pretty much.


SO this is jsut an exploratory question. May be a whole lot of dirty work to do when all I really have to do is replace the power steering pump (maybe leave the hoses).


ANyways, be well and thank you

Marc

In Canada, r12a is available of-the-shelf as a drop in replacement for R12. Eg. Red Tek
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.

Edit
Can't seem to edit message - "internal server error".
Should be "off" not "of"
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.

I would first find an automotive AC shop and ask about converting the system to R134a which all newer cars have. The Freon(R12) that came with your car is harmful to the Ozone layer in the upper atmosphere, but is not toxic otherwise.

A good AC shop can find any leaks easily enough by vacuuming the system. Then they can give you an estimate of the cost to repair and convert the system. I seriously doubt that there is any R12 left in your system and it is probably at zero pressure. 10 years ago it would have cost around $300 to convert the system from R12 to R134a.

Yes, you could remove the compressor, condenser, receiver, and associated lines. Then get the adapter plate for the alternator so your belts would fit. You would also want to cap the lines going through the firewall, because you do not want to go through the labor to remove the evaporator under the dashboard.

--
Keeping it running is better than buying new

Hi,

Oh yes, I forgot to mention, that the refrigerant is there is not toxic or even harmful to the human skin in its gaseous or in a vapor released form.
It's only when you get liquid refrigerant splashed on you that you can get frost bit. This happens like when it evaporates or "boils off" rapidly.
Just like alcohol gets colder, to the skin, but then again it's not starting out "under pressure" to a possible minus 20 degrees in its bottle either.
The oil in the system is only a few ounces of a base similar to mineral oil and might be edible, to some extent, it just is a low wax oil.
It might act like castor oil in your bowels though? Not something to keep around in a man cave as a mixer or for salads for those healthy type fellows! (:-)

Like Dave said, you can go and have it evacuated, but if it's not cooling you probably have around 20 psi in there.
If so, that might be about a quarter pound of refrigerant. There are not many cubic feet gas at that low of pressure in there. If they really did save it, like good boys are suppose too do, they would have to have a cylinder just for contaminated refrigerant to be sent for reclaim or disposal!

Remember all of the lines are small in a volume, with some reality thrown in!
If you stretched them out they might go around the car a couple or three times.
It's the liquid going around, a whole lot, very quickly, that does the cooling.

If it were me, I would ignore it, as you have lots of work ahead to get rid of everything involved that will be sticking out here and there, at the radiator and the firewall.
But then again, if you can find some capping off or plug fittings, it would look neater and more professionally done?

Just my opinion, that are like navels, everyone has one but can go just as unnoticed!
(:-)-I o <


Phil

If you are concerned over any residual refrigerant, your mechanic or another A/C shop can evacuate the system leaving it safe to discard the entire works safely. - Dave

Hi,

I think there is the adapter plate, that you are referencing, that relocates the the power steering pulley forward to line up to the crankshaft pulley. below.
You use a longer belt that goes directly to the left and down to the crankshaft pulley..
Only need to remove the A/C belt and all else stays put until you need to fix it permanently.

The mechanic should NOT have refilled the system as he knew it had leaked out before.
ITS illegal to just discharge refrigerants into the air, so that was a lousy way test out his suspicion.
Apparently from his statement, about it being expensive, he knows he is either going to make big bucks or he is not going to fix up your old car.

I'm amazed that he had R-12 or another replacement, to toss in there, but it was your money!
Last I knew it ran about $8.00 a pound. You need about three to do the complete job, if one is carefully in hooking up.
Having air conditioning is a luxury and there are lots of ways to pay for it!
So Sad isn’t it?

It seems that the pump is still working, so it’s not broken!
You need to look for fresh thin coating of oil seeping from some joint or line itself.
Sometimes, it’s just the high side receiver with the sight glass in it.
I have found that the bracket that hold the unit is mounted in foam rubber and rust happens under it.
A new receiver is just over $20.00 for the last one I got from NAPA or Four Seasons.

Phil

"Last I knew it ran about $8.00 a pound."

Must have been some time ago, Phil.

Most economical way I see to buy it is in a 30-lb cylinder. I look on ebay from time to time -- prices pretty steady at around a grand for one, plus a hefty shipping charge. I see the rusty 12-oz cans folks have saved going for $40 each.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Hi Art,

Yes, it has been quite awhile since I checked on the price. Probably 20 years! (:-)
I purchased 60 lbs of R 12 in 1990 along with a 30 lb. jug of R22 for about $1.00 a pound, straight from Costco.
I knew that some of this it was a hoax, for the most part by DuPont to move on to another patented product for themselves to hold rights on. It’s still going on by the many more manufacturers.

I still have the R 22 but I had a bad incident with that last jug of R12, just a few months ago.
I was down to the last 7 lbs of the R12 and it escaped!
I have never trusted these cheap-O needle type shut off valves on these tanks,
I always kept a metal cap on those valves to keep dust out, protect the flares angled face and threads.
There is a O ring inside them to make them more leak proof. You know a back up seal!
Well, I had purchased new brass caps from the J B vacuum pump manufacturer just for stock more or less?
My big mistake was I had over thought this idea, that since those o rings in the Original cap were now 30 years old, I might change it out, But instead, lazy me, put one of those new ones!
Well, I later found out my bottle was empty while moving it around shortly there after.
The cap was defective as the relief space ahead of the o ring was not cut quite deep enough and the cap bottomed out on the thread before contacting the o ring! Big big bummer!


Good thing I repaired or fixed the1991’s condenser from having rust in it! That was a nice endeavor!
Steel tubing kept plugging up the orifice tube.
All from bad services to the previous owner is what did a number on it!
It must have been open to moisture exposure someplace along the way of its 30 years!
Probably came from someone using using “contaminated refrigerant collections,” since then I would bet!
Re-Selling it, to the unsuspecting, is cheaper than ANY of those disposal charges!

Luckily, I have used the car for 15 years and it worked fine the whole time!

Gotta go!
Phil