The car is a 1982 Volvo GLT. 242 with the 2.3 litre engine and manual transmission.

Car ran well. Left overnight. Won't start.

Turns over fine.

No sound of the fuel pump setting up which is unusual for this car. I usually hit the starter first thing in the morning and wait for the fuel pump to "buzz" before I hit the starter again. No buzzing. Period.

Fuses are good.

I jumped number five fuse to number seven fuse and the starter motor will turn and hum.

But the car still will not start.

I bought an expensive fuel pump relay and changed the relay. Still no start.

Am I out of gas? Fuel gauge says there is plenty but I am going out to check that after I finish this epistle.

Puzzled.

1982 242 Turbo GLT using Bosch K-Jetronic (for Turbo) / Electronic Ignition.

I'm unsure what you used in your Canadian market.

"I jumped number five fuse to number seven fuse and the starter motor will turn and hum."

Hum? The engine starts and runs? You have a replacement known good green fuel injection relay you can plug in?

If no engine run ..... :

- Under the oil filler cap, verify the cam turns.
- Inspect the fuses (spin 'em) in the fuse panel. (Already done, you say.)
- Check for Turbo / air induction piping seal failure.
- Verify the in-distributor impulse sender has continuity and the connection at the side of the distributor housing is secure.

Tried a known good green (K-Jet) fuel injection relay? With the green cover off and connected to the wire harness, I believe with ignition key in your pocket, you can close both relay contacts to hear the pumps run.

Same effect as jumpering load side of fuses #5 to #7.

No engine vacuum lift of the metering plate in the air / fuel control unit under the air intake port manifold means engine control is not enabled.

Any issues with rotting wire harness? Wire harness connections to -VDC ground, +VDC power, and engine control wire harness connections okay.

The Mitchell Service diagrams are US-market centric. The 1982 and 1983 wire harness diagrams are sort of terrible. Very terrible.

Else, I'm unsure.

A long time for me to futz with K-Jet. Longer time futzing with Turbo K-Jetronic.

Hope that helps.
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Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity!

Sorry Kitty. I meant to say that the fuel pump ran and hummed when I plugged in the jumper wire, not the starter motor.

By the way it does have a CIS fuel injection system. That is another term for K-Jetronic. Right?

muskox

Hiya Mr. MuckOx37,

Thank you.

Yep, Volvo K-Jetronic = what Volvo names Continuous Injection System.

I believe, yet am unsure, that you also have the Bosch Electronic Ignition that came with K-Jetronic in US on 240.

Hope you are able restore operation!

My very best to Canada, the greatest nation in North America today!

Been trying for Canada jobs since the late 1990s. Wish I bought the work permit for 1000$ in the early 1990s.

And now we have this Corn Virus we have to hide from. So I hide from it, and also disrespect it by naming it Corn Virus!

Hope you and yours and everybody are in the most excellent of fettle!

Very nearly got a job in Bellingham, WA in 2013. Wish I went.

Sorry to go on so.

Thank you.

Campbell MacDuffy's Buttermilk Tavern
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Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity!

Thanks for the confirmation Mr. MacDuffy. As to electronic ignition I can confirm that I have an impulse sender instead of points and condenser.

But I stumbled on the solution yesterday when I sprayed some starter fluid inside the intake and she suddenly came to life. I drove it a few miles to see a friend of mine and then back. Turned it off and hit the starter and she started up with gusto. I even took my wife on a shopping trip that afternoon. But i did bring the cell phone and a can of starter fluid. All in all I started it up about ten times yesterday and it ran well.

I did change the fuel pump relay earlier but that did not make a difference. It still would not start. This morning will be the marker when I try to start it after a cold night sitting.

I liked Jonathon Winters too, by the way. Funny guy. When he dressed as an older woman he was hilarious.

Bob aka muskox37

Hiya Bob!

Sure Happy it's Thursday! Hope everybody and everyone is in the finest of fettles this day!!!

Maybe an issue with the thermal time switch, that at low enough temps provides a path to ground (closed circuit) to fire the cold start valve or cold start injector? (I mentioned this before? Maybe engine vibration disrupted corrosion at a engine control wire harness connector?)

A worn Bosch control pressure or warm-up regulator, as these age, can make for some hard starting with a cold engine in cooler and warmer temps.

Inside the Bosch Control Pressure (or Warm-Up Regulator) is a bi-metallic spring. With cold engine, the regulator lowers the control pressure (versus injector pressure) atop the fuel distributor piston to enrichen the fuel to air ratio. As the spring ages, become less responsive to the engine block temperature. No engine coolant temperature sensor used by K-Jetronic, so far as I can recall,in your 1983 242 Turbo.

However, with a (as much as one CAN!) vacuum leak free air induction system, engine vacuum should lift the air fuel control unit round venturi plate (and the connect arm that lifts of the metering rod or piston the air fuel control unit to usually start the engine when the cold start valve or injector does not inject (thermal time switch or other cause).

Glad you got it to work again!

Sure Happy it's Thursday (all day long)!
--
Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity!

Try starting fluid. If it fires fuel related. If not, suspect spark.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

I will give that a try.

I have a troubleshooting spark plug that has its own ground and can be connected to the plug lead on the car and placed on top of the engine. I tried a number of variations and could get no spark at number one plug. Still, the troubleplug could be failing but I am more and more moving to the idea of no spark.

I did put in a little gas.

Still no go. Did not start.

I need to find a methodical set of steps to check out the spark from beginning to end.

I'm not that familiar with the 200 series. But no spark at the plug end. Pull the plug wire and pop it into the coil with your test plug and see if you get spark out of the coil. If so, suspect distributor. If not, upstream from the coil or bad coil. Basic coil testing then.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

hello again aleekat,

OK. Think I got that. Pull the plug wire out of the distributor, plug it into the coil, and connect the other end to my sparkplugtester unit.

If i get spark then the likely culprit is the distributor because it is further down the spark trail than the coil.

Am I cooking with gas or just wandering in the wilderness again?


muskox

Okay. I got spark when I ran the lead directly from the coil to the sparkplugtool.

No spark when I put the lead back on the distributor and ran it to the sparkplugtool.

I take it that I have some kind of problem in the distributor. So I will take a look at the manual and see what I can do to find problems there.

Thanks for your valuable input. i will get back to you.

Bob aka muskox3437

Cap & rotor usual culprits.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

Hi Aleekat,

None of this makes any sense to me. I thought I might try a shot of starting fluid to see if I could get it to run temporarily. It not only started it ran and I took it out for a half hour run where it ran normally. I parked it in the garage upon return and tried starting it twice and both times it started. Right now it is starting and is running normally.

The only difference I can note is that the fuel pump does not give out its usual buzz when I turn on the key.

I will give it a try after it has been sitting for a while. Right now I just don't trust it. If it starts tomorrow morning I will be impressed.

Wondering if a new fuel filter might be a good idea. But there is no stumbling on acceleration, etc.

It is a conundrum!

muskox

I had a lot of problems with the impulse sender on this car a number of years ago. Intermittent snags caused by a tiny wire making and breaking according to the ambient heat of the engine.

It is a continuous injection car and uses breakerless ignition.

Cap and rotor seem to be good. I did a little sanding on the rotor contact point.

Still wondering about the fact that the fuel pump does not run up when ignition is turned on.

I think the fuel pumps only run when cranking and the engine is running.
Check the wiring from the distributor to the fenderwell connection.May be a bad connection.

Having got a start with starting fluid I am going back to the idea that I have a fuel problem rather than an electrical one. It ran normally and started twice after return from the run. Right now I am a little perplexed as to what is going on. Wondering about the fuel filter.

When was the last time the intank pump was replaced? Could be the intank pump hose that connects to the pickup tube.