OK. Got new ball joints all around, new lower A-arm bushings. One last job before alignment: The idler arm bushing, which is woefully sloppy. I’m confused by the Haynes manual. Shows three types, the first two seeming to use needle bearings. I’m pretty sure mine is the third type, a straight bushing. I have two on hand. One is from IPD and the other, which was reported to be “better than the IPD bushing.” Both appear similar, a chromed outer cylinder with a central metal sleeve surrounded by rubber.

I’m just afraid that I’ll end up doing it the hard way, learning by taking too much apart. Can someone tell me the easiest way to do this job? Thanks.

Dave;

Following, as I can't really answer the specific questions...maybe Eric will chime in with good answers and options...I would just say Idle needs to be removed and separated from car, for pressing in replacement, and after removal of the old, it should be simpler to be certain which of the two you have is the correct one to install...know that there is a brass (or maybe bronze) option with greasing nipple available also. See: https://www.sw-em.com/Wheels_Tires_Suspension_Notes.htm#Front_Suspension

Cheers

Hello Dave,

Unless someone has been swapping parts, you should have the latest version of the idler arm that has a 1 piece press in bushing and easily identifiable by the locknut location that retains the idler arm to the idle arm bracket being at the bottom.

The earlier 2 versions have a pair of needle bearing assemblies sometimes called pocket bearings or a pair of bronze bushings that have to pressed out and then in. A new pivot pin that has to be pressed out and in as well. Both early styles have a lock nut or castle nut on the top.

Currently you have 3 choices for the later style of idler arm bushing, stock style with rubber, stock style with poly and an all metal replacement for the stock style.

I have only used the stock style, but beware, there are at least 2 manufacturers that made really crappy versions. Both of which have just as much play if not more than the old 1 that was just removed or their metal casings are too large or too thin and can't be pressed in.

We used to use OE Volvo bushings, but I haven't tried using what Volvo sells for quite a while. And that's because their bushings central metal sleeve wouldn't fit onto the shaft as the inner diameter was too small.


--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

Thanks, again, gentlemen. Planetman is correct. I had the newer style and the rubber was shot. Had two spares on hand, an IPD bushing and one listed, when I put it into my spare parts data base, as "Supposed to be higher quality than the IPD." I don't recall who I purchased it from, but that's the one I used. The reason for my posting and my concern was all the talk about "reaming" that I'd read. Obviously that must refer to the OEM bushing Planetman mentioned. I did have a a real problem getting the new one in. My vise broke halfway through (now repaired) and I had to sheepishly take it back to my mechanic to finish the job. Fortunately, I had taken a bunch of hot soft pretzels to them when I picked up the A-arm in the morning, so they happily (and for free) pushed the bushing home. It did have just a teeny bit of play when I slid it dry over the shaft. So I used a dollop of very old and very viscous wheel bearing grease in there when I final fitted it, and when I tightened it was fine. Certainly light years better than the one I took out....and no one got reamed.

BTW. When are we going to give Planetman some kind of medal? The guy ALWAYS comes through.

Dave;

I agree Eric deserves a reward...but instead of a medal (which doesn't keep the kids fed and in shoes), I suggest we show our thanks and appreciation by just keeping to send some payed business his way when we have the opportunity!

Cheers