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hi sages- ran into annie greensprings from woodstock while soaking up some coffee this weekend at drunken donuts. had a long chat about what junks a 240 other than a total out/smashup. hers is a red 90 245 wagon which resembles a volvo version of Christine the 58 Plymouth fury before arnie rebuilt it. tells me it has 300k. anyway we discussed one issue which I don't think has directly come up here on the board. what are the top 5 mechanical clusterf@!#ks which doom a 240. in no particular priority we came up with exploded air bag, dead automatic trans, rusted out floors, seized engine, blower motor dead. cited a number of causes, shyster dealers/mechanics, many replacement parts now made of unobtainium, junkyards have been cleaned out, etc. she wired in a truckers junkyard fan onto her dashtop to demist/defrost the windshield when a dealer tried to clip her $1000. to replace the dead blower motor. looks like hell but does work. curious how you would answer this my bruthas. thanks tons oldduke
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Thu Jan 30 21:02 CST 2020 [ RELATED]
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Foolishness.
A desire to be 'recognized' as....an idiot
https://www.zerohedge.com/technology/your-smart-vehicle-recording-your-every-move
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I'll bet a failed ignition tumblers have taken more that a few to Volvo valhalla.
Dan
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now wait a minute dan, are you saying one might junk a 240 just because the ignition switch key lock crapped out? actually that jammed up one night on me on tobacco road in hell flats. had to take the covers off the column and fool with it . luckily for me my swiss army knife saved me but I did cuss(not s and h either). never crossed my mind to junk the 92 245 over this. but did cuss the mutha of the engineer who designed this item. regards oldduke
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The only ignition switches available are 30 + year old used ones that can be found on ebay. I did manage to pull one out of a junker but they are now rare and there is no telling how long it will work. If you do find one and have to pay someone to replace it, labor costs are greater than the value of the car.
I got lucky with mine after a couple of months of flushing various solvents through the tumbler and dislodged whatever was jamming it up.
Granted you can bypass the switch but you have lost any security you had in doing it.
It is a shame you can't just buy the tumbler portion of the switch.
Dan
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hi kit g, roland and dan pag- back in the war these anti rust potions were widely sold and then pretty much disappeared. problem is two fold spraying this magic juice in door boxes, rockerpanels and other hidden rust prone spaces is very hit and miss because you cant see what you are coating. after drilling a hole you would spray and then use a plastic plug to plug the hole. problem is spots you miss inside will rust laterally . the other problem is the guarantee. I read a few of them and they all had as the sole remedy if rust occurred a refund of the purchase price or a respray, no rust damage repair. sages of yesteryear said the only effective way to spray these juices was to do it on the sheet metal before the car was assembled in the factory so no spot would be missed, but that generally wasn't done. this could cause car enthusiasts to make accusations of shysterism and have a generally bad attitude to these vendors. rememba what inspector Renaud said to wit -im shocked, shocked that gambling is going on here(substitute shysterism). recommend all read each word in their vendor invoices, contracts and warranties. thanks tons oldduke
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Thu Jan 30 00:05 CST 2020 [ RELATED]
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Watch the video
https://www.fluid-film.com/automotive-applications/
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Thank you for the Fluid Film reminder.
Want to use this for rust prevention yet also on the steering column U-joints. Want to wrap these steering column u-joints after a clean and lube in some sort of boot. Hard to do at the lower u-joint.
I also use a keychain specific for 240. Lightest keychain one can use with the ignition switch. Heavy keychain wears the ignition lock and the switch behind rather well after 15-30 years. Another neglect example.
Thank you CB!
Thank you for the thread Uncle OldDuke!
--
Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity
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You wrote,
"Want to wrap these steering column u-joints after a clean and lube in some sort of boot. Hard to do at the lower u-joint"
I did wrap the bottom steering colum U-joint may be 20 years ago on the 1982. Still holding but it should probably be refreshed.
I lubricated the joint with synthetic oil, took a chunk of grease and filled each side of the cross.
I took a stripe of polythene film long enough to wrap 3 layers around the joint, attached each end with plastic ties and cut excess film leaving enough so the ties wont slip out.
It did work for me and I should do the top U-joint before problems show up. And both joints on the 1991 also.
Hard to reach bottom joint. I do not remember how I did it. I should try something like this:
- Lubricate and add chunk of grease
- Turn steering all the way to the right, fix somhehow the polythene film,
- Have someone turn the steering wheel the other way many turns, and put plastic ties.
What do you think of this method ?
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Happy Sat-Your-Day Uncle Rolandp!
Yep, I'll try what you say as you describe.
My primary concern is the wrapping method accumulates stuff inside the wrapping including grime and moisture.
I'd probably raise up the front and place beefy jackstands at the jack points, with sundry jackstand support elsewhere so easy to rotate the steering column.
For some reason I continue to forget about Fluid Film as something to get into the needle bearing areas to get some sort of lube or reactivate the grease soap complex.
I'd been using Mobil 1 20W50. I have a 14-oz tube of SuperLube NLGI 2 silicon grease and may use that to pack around the u-joint cross before sealing.
May I please ask what plastic strap zip ties you use? I get these UV resist black plastic zip ties. They do not last in hot place like using the zip ties to secure the PCV vapor hose between the PCV block mounted breather oil separator trap box and the bottom of the flame arrestor sieve housing. The zip ties fail once and again. Made a final repair using gentle metal clamps and new radiator (not PCV vapor hose) to seal it up.
Yet I used zip ties to secure hot area hoses on the 1970s 240 in the 1980s up to 2001 or so. Not ever failed. These were white nondescript zip ties.
Yet these new black plastic zip ties, got from AutoZone in my prior home, a home, of Spokane Valley, WA are medium. One pack is UV resist and the other package does not indicate UV resist.
The 1990 and 1992 are with power steering. One because the 1997 print Haynes 240 manuals indicates Dexron and power steering fluid when the owner manual indicates "Type F". D'oh-oh. So, more steering u-joint stress when turning.
All three 240s I own now and before has the belly pan in plastic or metal. They do appear to help limit splash up into the engine bay a bit.
Thank you for guidance.
Hope you enjoy you Happy Sat-Your-Day and a enter weekend's remainder.
Pleased Sofia Kenin won the Australian Tennis Open women's championship!
Hopes for a Tech Writer job at a GLP CRO. No word yesterday as the HR rep indicated a few days before. Merely writing, illustration, and other support for those crazy folks and their post doctoral diplomas, making new therapies to helps the folks that need them. Sorry to go on so.
Thank you.
MacDuffy's Buttermilk Tavern.
--
Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity!
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I use enough grease to fill most of the space each side of the center cross.
With about 3 layers of polythene I would not worry about water getting inside, unless car get immerged higher than the joint. Plus, water in there should not have much adherence on metal.
I used the white type plastic ties (nylon ?) and I don't think there is enough heat there to affect these. Good to check once in a while though.
I read all your interesting posts, and learn something here and there.
Have a good day.
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Mr. Rolandp,
Thank you, Sir!
Hope you enjoy the best of most excellent weeks to begin your February!!!!
I'll drip some Mobile 1 15W50 on the six drive shaft U-joints in the three 240s later today!
Thank you,
Buttermilk and Sourdough Boyeeeeeee
--
Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity!
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Good luck KGV, hope you get the job! Sounds like you are way overdue for some good karma to come your way!!
Good weekend, J :)
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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Hiya Mr. Walker,
Thank you so very kindly for the kind and well wishes!
Gotta get a garage as part of an upgraded, flea-free rental. Two 240 OvLovs need some exhaust manifold gaskets and rear suspension bushing.
With your well wish I think of John Lennon's song "Instant Karma". (We can place the period after the close quote, apparently.) Arguing karma reprisal withing the lifetime and not after as is historically advocated.
Another Monday and no good news I'm certain. Terrible and stupid thing to do to return to the town of the stupid arches thing and the nhl hockey blue notes.
Hope you have had the best of weekends for you and yours, and hopes the week is ever better!
Thank you for the mind consideration.
Mr. Carp and Grouse
(I continue to want that 164 with M410 someday as another Volvo! 1972.)
--
Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity!
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hi kit g- read your lament and always hope for the best for you. take a look at arty bs recent post and picture of a neat looking 240 sedan about to be wasted in the Mekong monsoon. excites about as much joy as a draft notice in 69. many tell me my attitude stinks. what think you? thanks tons oldduke
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Hiya Uncle OldDuke!!!
Attitude? No attitude at all! Or best, a right kind of attitude!
Your style and way!!!
I like your attitude!!! People need more attitude like you!!!!
I call it critical notion of a literate and well exercised mind!!!
Have to in the human society of liars, shysters, and fascists.
No, my attitude stinks. Nearly 30 years of the secret society of organized stalking that started at a California State University. What few relatives I had, those that cared for me, are all long gone. The terrible ones persist to this day. My mudder is one and her daughter. Ripped me off once and again and again. There's a hateful, terrible attitude. Me mudder. Yet I'm a gullible schmo sometimes. I want the best, yet they deliver the worst.
I'd seen the image of Art's daughter's blue 240 getting under the rising waters of Stinking Creek near or on Tobacco Road, MD. Though the extra detail of the ignition innards and more helps. Sorry that happened.
Else, well, no remote writer job for me.
No instant karma. Eating and drinking sold silver coin and some cheapo 14k gold somehow does and does not taste better.
Tried for three wrench turning jobs here in the last few years in toilet town and no go. No certifications.
We'll try to make some antacids? Doubtful.
That's it.
Happy Tuesday!!! Thank you.
Earl Grey Tea Boyeeeeee
--
Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity!
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Hi Kit!
Yow! Sure sounds like you could get an acting part on TV!
You sound like that show Two and one half Men!
Which one are you Charlie Sheen or his brother, no wait a minute, the brothers son is all grown up!
Get in touch with those screen writers, you have got enough fresh ideas, for a sequel and a half!
By any chance does any of this sneak out during any of your interviews?
Just thinking about you guy, but hadn’t figured out a way to break ice with ya!
Phil
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Hiya Uncle Phil Machine Man!!!!
Thank you kindly.
I'd wanted to and wrote and wrote and wrote silly thing for screen big and large.
It's all so derivative. Yet the human experience and expression spectrum has only so much range and depth.
And then the need for profits.
So, to university I went, working all the way to pay for it. An AA, BS, and MA.
Wanted that Apple Computer job in 1994. Or any Bay Area job, or Portland, or Seattle. I was denied.
Expression for profit require practice to an end. The marketplace is filled with folks both sublimely capable and those that are mediocre. Like human resources to get a real technical writer job, the metrics, couched mostly in social science methods, the human resources fail. Or, as I know it, I'm prevented from employment. If I ever am allowed a real not-real writer job again.
Oh, nothing like that 2.5 men CBS show at all. A tragic version of Jerry Lewis Cinderfella. My mudder is on her third husband, and he's worth ten of millions. I'm assured I won't see a dime of it.
Yet when I moved in with the other parent in August 1982, mudder told me on the phone she'd "hold me in contempt of court". Serious support and alimony. Everyone smoking cigarettes like Gary Oldman and pals in the film "Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy" film. I despise tobacco in any form. The vapes is as terrible.
I have no clue how I'll pay March rent. Sell the Lionel 027 gauge model railroad layout. Volvo 240 also. Check Saint Louis craigslist.
Happy Monday! No good news today, again. Regrets leaving terrible Spokane for the same rerason I left terrible Saint Louis to go to WA and then return. At least you have the Northern Sky and the Western Sun in Spokane. Volvo 240 rots far slower.
No Tums factory GxP writer.
Meanwhile, about what junks a Volvo 240 as Uncle Old Duke asks here ....
I'm sorry to go on so. I have utterly no one to talk to.
I hate it here at 52 years.
--
Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity!
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hi kit g- keep sluggin and hang in there . something always materializes. as an educated man, volvo sage and philosopher you have a lot going for you. regards oldduke
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+1
Kit - Totally agree with OD! Looking for work can be a very demoralizing experience. Been there myself. Don’t take the rejection personally. Hang in there and never, ever give up!!...:)
J
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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Us folks here on the BB are used to that bad, bad, bad attitude of yours - Old Duke. Hey, skepticism can be a good thing! That attitude is one of the reasons we like you! And I can’t stand shysters either....
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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hi jw- thank you for your compliments. you know I used to be a nice guy but experience with shysters and flim flam specialists gave me a bad attitude. have tried to recover and reform but failed. good good folks here on the board. they have saved me from myself. many of the parts for an old 245 wagon have dried up . even most junkyards have dried up. that may cause the daily drivers to be junked as much as the other causes. strange but easier to get parts for 29-31 model As and 64-70 mustangs than old 240s. m47 5speed manuals are in very thin supply. strangely get about 1 offer to purchase my 245 wagon a month. but wont sell. annie greensprings wont sell hers either and her red bomb looks like hell much worse than mine. so thanks again for you kind words. keep on double clutching which is what you have to do when the synchros fail on the lower gears. oldduke
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Congradulations , this is a long post and as you see it does interest a lot of folks like us that work hard to keep our cars on the road and running well.
Keep hanging on, there is always something showing up and unexpected that can help us,
Keep Volvoing (could that be a word ?) as long as it is possible.
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RUST
This is the killer, except a major accident can kill it.
Rust can be prevented with antirust coating where road salt is used but then the car is very sloppy and awfull to work on. This is the total dilemna. You have it treated every fall or leave it exposed to corrosion.
My son's 1981 went off the road because of corrosion. Odometer at 330k miles and no oil needed after 2k miles. But it went for parts.
I try to keep the 1982 as long as I can with antirust treatments. But I am 77 and start to find hard to keep up with the maintenance.
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good responses my bruthas. haven't really found rust " treatments" that work because the salt water, etc. typically gets behind the exposed metal like in the floors and rusts out the metal from inside.these rust treatment mouse milks just didn't work . only thing they worked on was your wallets weight reduction. who remembas rusty jones, zeke zeebart and billy bondo back in the 70s. common myth is that exposed metal rusts from the outside . car killing rust starts badly in the floors and the lower rear quarters. when that happens then the only remedy is welders who I have found are at the top of the list of shysters and superchargers. most of the old relics I have junked were killed by this . have found rust while present and a junker of volvos is slower in the volvo than many other makes. not sure why. the only car maker that seemed to have success with stopping rust before it started was the now defunct Saturn. my other tank is an 01saturn with no rust in the obvious places.saturn used a combination of plastic and metal. dents would even pop out overnight denying a big payday to body and fender shops. don't feel sorry. I may attend bad attitude adjustment therapy. thanks ton oldduke
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You are right about antirust zeebart tar type of coating.
Here in eastern Canada Montreal area antirust treatments are popular. Many types are availlable.
Metropolitain for one injects under pressure a liquid parafin type. They inject inside doors, in rocker panels, inside trunk and fenders, all around hood and trunk cover, inside the frame structure.
The car is after this driven outside to drain 30 minutes on a liquid recovery floor. They garanty no rust if treatment is done every year.
I prefer the heavy liquid parafin type. It does not drip but it spreads slowly with time on ereas not covered. It is applied with a jet of 150 psi compressed air, the spray gun is about 1 quart.
Nothing is perfect, before I do the treatment by October or November I have to scrape inside rear fenders to remove a thick coat of black dirt that is sand and whatever dust absorbed in that greasey stuff. And it is no fun to work under the car, repair something like clutch adjustment, fluid level check in transmission etc.
But it does the work, I hate so much repair rust holes. My 1982 has 37 winters in road salt.
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Hiya Uncle Old Duke!
Sure Happy it's Wednesday all day long!!!
My best to Annie Greensprings! I need to try Druken Dounuts! Ripple jelly filled? Bailey's Irish Cream filled? Some Irish Whisky in the cup of coffee? Drunken Dounts makes good coffee I understand. Need to get some to brew.
++++++++++1 on the rust. Single snow flake and many young tonnes of salty roads through the wintertime.
Under the 1991 where you see the latitudinal box like tube members secured to the floor between the transmission / drive-line tunnel and the rocker panel, someone used that place as jackstand support. Not the jackpoints. Breaking the paint and corrosion gets metal exposed. I've had to treat this for rust and reapply stuff like Waxoyl. Waxoyl is good inside blind compartments where not directly splashed and pitted by road rocks. There exists other durable undercoatings that wicks out some creeping petroleum to displace moisture. Yet at the better auto wash or for cheapos like me, manual car washer under car spray (hot water is best).
Yet you have rust from the inside out. Clogged moonroof drains or bad seals at the wagon roof rack or at the windshield gasket or at them bulkhead / firewall plate seals.
Yet at my fave yunkyard places out west in North America, where I went and will to go again, I see neglect and abuse as what junks a volvo 240.
The final owner can't afford to repair or won't learn to repair themselves, or does not have the ability to grasp electromechanical systems to care and repair them. Or these 240 owners rise on the Volvo 240 mythos of an ever enduring automobile of cheapo ownership and neglect to care for the 240 foibles. Mostly this is the cause I see. Owner neglect and abuse of 240. Usually intense neglect and abuse through hard use. Say no to black brake fluid.
Occasionally car crash damage. Nearly exclusively it is front end damage by the prior 240 owner at the yunkyard. On close inspection, that 240 was very well neglected and abused whether crashed or not.
Arty B. stated it best someplace here to the effect that you care for Volvo 240 yourself or have the big bux to pay the (hopefully not shyster) repair services.
Rust treatments to get at the rust is Naval Jelly, the PRO-15, and stuff like Fertan (uses phosphoric acid also).
https://fertanusa.com/
I guess that does it.
My best to Annie Greensprings!
I'll visit the Drunken Doughnuts here. Bailey's Irish Cream Custard filled!?!?!?
--
Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity
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Rust. And inability to find a mechanic that knows how to work on slightly older vehicles.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Tue Jan 28 15:39 CST 2020 [ RELATED]
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RUST...That's what killed all those great European imports of the late 20th Century. (you know them 'foreign' cars)
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Gone to hell, or high water.
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--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Water rose over the roof a few minutes later.
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hi arty b- that is one helluva picture of a volvo 240 sedan about to be swallowed by floodwaters in a monsoon. bet that shot was taken either during the rapid river rise near stinking creek md or during a Mekong river delta floodout. don't see any congs though. wonder if 4 inches of water covered the roof could the 240 be resurrected or would It be curtains for the car. among many other repairs that would be needed, first would be dead electrical components and wiring connectors. btw that explosion wouldn't be a claymore mine or an ied but a shorted out airbag. a sad picture indeed. need a double t bird shot after viewing. bet the dealers afterparty after getting the $$$$ repair would dwarf the superbowl party last night. worried my attitude is getting worse. should have taken a triple t bird. thanks tons oldduke
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hi arty b- holy Vietnamization ! that was a terrible picture and awful followups. what did you save in parts. guess that speedometer cluster isn't going to work well again. once in a while after katrina flooded cars from orleans would show up some with fake titles and some with salvage titles here in fla. crooks and shysters never sleep. neither do liars( see nam and Johnson). did you know on the frontier of the 19th cent stealing a mans horse was so serious it was made a hanging offense. fake titles used to purvey bad cars are almost as bad. actually probably could flush out the trans if a manual , engine and diff and they would work. rest would probably be stinko especially electrics. luckily the volvo plastics would rot and crumble by themselves, didn't need salt water or swamp juice. water from stinking creek would consume cars faster than floods. always a pleasure to talk to you. thanks tons oldduke
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your budget and common sense is what junks any car. biggest budget breaker is rust on any car.
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posted by
someone claiming to be qo6a
on
Mon Jan 27 10:37 CST 2020 [ RELATED]
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Nothing junks them. Engine, tranny and the differential are bullet proof. Other stuff is easy to fix. Engine is non interference, which means if the timing belt breaks, engine will not be harmed.
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I think the answer depends a lot on two things -- 1) the desire to keep her on the road; and 2) the financial wherewithal to do so. If you wanna drive it and you have the money - then I think severe corrosion is the only real deal breaker. There are work-arounds for everything else.
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