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long crank when warm 200 1993

1993 240 w/220k mi - fully stock. I've put on the last 40k.

On cold mornings or cold starts, it fires right up - zero delay.

When the engine is warm or has been run in the last few hours, the car cranks for 2-3 seconds before catching and starting.

Why?

- Maintenance is up to date
- Fuel pressure is holding at the rail
- Injectors are new
- Cap & rotor are clean

There are no obvious issues. Suggestions welcome.

Thanks!










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long crank when warm 200 1993

Hello,

No mention of plugs here. Maybe its time to check your plugs. I read somewhere copper plugs meant to be replaced every 39k miles. Enlarged gaps and broken internal resistors maybe? These could made worse by heat especially on a warmed up engine thus hard starting.

Regards,
Amarin.








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long crank when warm 200 1993

Quick update:

- New thermostat installed. After a cold start, the temp now always comes up to the middle after 10 min or so.

- New ECT tested and installed, and I'm getting good reading now at the ECU wiring harness.

Good news - cold start idle is much better, even though this was not my original problem. This is due to the ECT now reading the correct temp. The replaced ECT was reading about 70-80F when the temp was 38F outside, but was reading correctly at 'hot' temps.

Bad news - the crank time is still long when it's warm. I've tried this now on about 4 occasions. I drive the car for 20-30 min, let it sit for and hour or so outside, and then start it. The engine needs 3-4 seconds of cranking before it will fire up. I even wait 5 seconds after engaging the fuel pump before engaging the starter.

Any other thoughts or ideas?

Thanks.








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long crank when warm 200 1993

Hi,

Ok now you have asked for it! “ Any other thoughts or ideas?” :)(: ... which way to go from here?
You really want a bunch of frog legs in your skillet!

I agree that 3-4 seconds to crank is fairly a long time to crank after an engine has been ran. An hour is not a long cool down period.
That is why I like a 192 C thermostat in the engine, especially for winter time. It give the engine more of a buffer zone.
On a warm engine there should be some residual fuel vapors left in the cylinders or the intake runners around the valves. Enough to at least get one hit to an another in short order.

I agree with Amarin and Art that the ignitions health is always a first choice to square away.
I have seen plug gaps wear and some slight difference in having an occasional, very light stumble or misfiring develop. Hard starting is a little more a heavier issue and is as tricky to catch, as a frog. (:)

The original complaint was to find the lumpiness when cold and some rough idle warm. Appears that they were commingling together with the slow starts. All that adds butter to them frog legs. (:)
So it’s better now and is pointing to making this more of a study into its running mixtures. Hard start warm is more a lean issue than overly rich condition IMO.
MY first thoughts would say a leaky intake manifold due to movement on a bad gasket.

In my next thoughts is about the primed volume inside the fuel rail and the way you said it. Waiting five seconds after a prime, is not going to help fill the rail any further but may even empty it if it’s a leaky injector or FPR.
If you turned the key on several times and then “ Never Crank It” that would make sure the fuel rail is filled up.
You should hear the fuel pump spin up each time as the ECU does this on ‘91 and later cars. It’s part of the EKZ system on a singular crank over. Listen carefully when rolling the key over to position two!

I will say that all three of the nineties cars of mine seem to be a little slower in coming up with a hit, when compared to my 1984 and 1986 LH systems.
My 1984 almost scares me, the way it pops over, after sitting cold and it barely cranks a revolution. Sort of unique, when I study them in “comparisons.”
A couple seconds or less is more normal. Past that, I would notice the extra cranks, like you! I even notice an occasional oil light going off slow at times!

The conversations you are having on the Brickboard are telling me you like being in tune with your cars and that means they have to be speaking about their tune to you.
Some may think, we’re their more modern clunkers, that “hey it does start!”
In reality it’s the battery, alternator and the starter that wears out before their time! The Number One failure point on any automobile is a start mechanisms.
Even the button on electric cars of the future!

Has anyone notice the Jacked up prices of engine oil lately!
They are either leading or chasing the antifreeze marketing scam!

Walmart is half the price of these “department store” like parts houses out here on the west coast! Advance Auto bought out Car Quest.

Now the two others left, are joining the rodeo of a roundup of combustion engine drivers wallets!

Electric cars are coming to run them out of business.
Imagine a car that won’t even have to have caliper brakes!
It will Autonomous remote control cars using motors to lock them up!

Yep, I told a lady that the future will bring “no traffic lights” as the cars will leave spaces between, so the other cars will cross between them, with collision avoidance systems!
She said, “that sounds scary!”
I didn’t say this,
Humans are such thoughtless frogs, to do that in the first place!

I’m in Maui today, on a cruise and I didn’t drive one bit to get here, wonderful!

Phil











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Any other thoughts or ideas? 200 1993

"- Maintenance is up to date
- Fuel pressure is holding at the rail
- Injectors are new
- Cap & rotor are clean"


Well, when I asked if you'd checked the ECT function, that was the last idea you hadn't covered yourself. Now, there are no more simple ideas, unless, perhaps one of the two items above needs to be revisited with more specificity.

Sometimes a backyard mechanic will deem the rail is "holding pressure" simply because the Schrader gives a squirt when tweaked. Not clear in your original post exactly how well you checked this.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Sometimes I wonder if our lives are all about the challenge of keeping gases and liquids where they belong.








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long crank when warm 200 1993

I let the car sit overnight outside. It's 31F degrees and pin 13 says 2210 ohms.

So, the computer is being told it's about 68F degrees outside. This may explain the lumpy idle in the winter (i.e. now).

A new Volvo ECT is on its way from FCP.

Thanks








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long crank when warm 200 1993

I was finally able to get back to the project.

38F outside, pin 13 says 1700 ohms
Start the car, run it around for 20 minutes to get temp up
Temp scanner says 170F on the thermostat housing, pin 13 says 260 ohms.

The first reading is way off, it should be closer to 4000. The second reading is seems within tolerances..

I'll replace the ECT sensor and see how that changes things.

Thank you!








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long crank when warm 200 1993

Check for OBD codes and check for spark when it’s in the no-start mode. Difficult warm starts can be caused by a failing crank position sensor.








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long crank when warm 200 1993

I should have remembered the ECT - I'll check this when I'm home next week.

I have also tried to waiting 4-5 seconds to ensure the fuel pressure is built up - this has no effect on the crank times when the engine has been warmed up.

One thing I have also noticed lately is that the engine temperature does not always come up to the middle point, even after driving for 30 minutes. The indicator stays at about the 7 o'clock position instead of the normal 9. I know this is controlled by the yellow wire and I replaced that sensor about 5 years ago with a genuine Volvo part (new too!). This problem has crept up in the last month. The thermostat is also about 5 years old, and the coolant was replaced about 1 year ago. Heat blows as strong as ever. It would be very strange for two engine temp sensors to be wonky at the same time - but I've seen stranger things.

Look for an update next week when I get near the car.

Thanks for the help!








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long crank when warm 200 1993

I always wait about 5 seconds with the key on before I crank the engine.

Warm engines have more compression than cold ones due to oil sealing the rings better. I have read that large diesel engines in trucks can require as much as 10 times the power from the starter than cold ones in warm weather.

When I supervised our fire department mechanic. I subscribed to 3 trade magazines - In the last 20 years or so, truck advances in mechanical development were probably better than cars - multiplex instrument wiring, component failure prediction with service appointments at your destination, 42 volts, etc.








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long crank when warm 200 1993

Hello James,

What effect does waiting 5 seconds before cranking have ?

I think that increased compression on a hot engine is more a result of the piston and rings expanding and closing up the ring gap than it is warm oil sealing better.

I guess it depends on what is meant by hot and cold. At temps below 0'F I can pretty much tell the ambient temperature by the speed of my engine cranking. I've always attributed slower cranking to an increase of resistance from cold oil.

I know that battery power is a factor, but at -30'F with the block heater on, the engine spins quite freely. The heater doesn't warm the battery very much, if at all.

We were driving an 84 245 in the days before we had the electric put in in 2004. It would start cold down to about -35 with much complaining; below that I'd have to get up at 4 AM and take a pan full of coals from the woodstove to set under the oil pan. It worked well, though maybe a little dangerous as I think about it now.

regards, Peter








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long crank when warm 200 1993

I wait a bit with the ignition on to allow the fuel pump to get pressure.

I have done this with our high mileage Volvos.

In 2001 we purchased a '95 854 that had 95K on it- I joked with the sales man that I did not know that any used Volvos had less than 100K on them!








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long crank when warm 200 1993

Make sure ECT is sending the correct temperature to the ECU??


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Sometimes, we just need to remember what the rules of life really are:
A. You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape.
B. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40.







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