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1972 142 S rust question 140-160

My wife fell in love with an original (except paint) 142s. The car looks to be a good driver with some rust (previously repaired, I think, popping out in the end of the rockers. Minimal bondo found and inner rockers seems very solid as are the floors and jack points.
My question is in regard to the rear wheel wells. On both sides there is rust through behind the tires into the trunk area. Just sheet metal The driver's side is a bit more serious than the passenger side as the rust is on the sheet metal down to the "frame rail" where the shock attaches. Frame rail appears to be very solid and no sags, etc. Can I repair the wheel well sheet metal if the frame rail and support area is OK or does the rail need to be cut out for the repair?

Unfortunately I cannot attach an image








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1972 142 S rust question 140-160 1972

Hi,

Various solutions exist to treat rust. Though what you describe is structural to sheet metal components. So, rust removal prep, shape carbon steel sheet metal to fit, and choose your weld method. MIG weld or the like. I'm not certain.

Where the floor pan meets the rocker panel top and the rear fender from the door rear bottom corner and backwards is a welded or spot welded seam. When rust infects these cars the rust infections migrates along welded seams.

As for treating rust after removal of loose rust scale using wire wheel and other methods, you have some chemical treatment solutions. POR-15 makes a method that many use on this forum to treat rust after after the weld your rust repair does not need welding.

Another solution to merely treat after loose scale removal, and, like POR-15, the use of a chemical cleaner to cleanse away oil and grime is Fertran.

I'm unsure how Fertran works. I've only read about it. You also have other phosphoric acid rust converters that includes Naval Jelly.

After the weld, if you need to, abrade the weld and pickle, prime, paint, and apply undercoat.

In blind compartments you can spray products like Waxoyl. Waxoyl wicks some petroleum slowly to disperse liquid water.

You will also want to inspect the door interiors. The exterior rubber window scraper rubber shrinks, allowing more moisture intrusion. Frozen water at the door bottom open up the spot weld along the seam, breaking paint and the gooey white sealing oily clay stuff. So the door bottoms rust out. Also, the door drains will clog.

You may want to remove the interior including carpet. If your 142 has a factory moonroof or after market sunroof, moisture intrudes and the floor pan can rust from inside out. You may want to assess all other seals like the bulkhead firewall plates (both sides) through which wire harness passes through now old stiff grommets.

Though from the Volvo 700-900 Series FAQ hosted right here on your Brickboard, you have the FAQ Rust article page that may prove helpful. Copy and paste the URL into a new tab.

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/BodyRust.htm

I've had and still have to deal with rust on 240. So, others can make mention about particular issues with rust on Volvo 140s.

As for including images in your Brickboard posts ...

You can use the BrickPix Gallery (Click BrickPix at the top of the page) image hosting service that is a part of the Brickboard.

https://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/

If you use another hosting service, and hopefully not PhotoBucket, yet Imgur continues to appear okay to use, post the link in your reply if you want to your image portfolio. I can also post. You can also try Art Benstein's instructions.

The image file may be any pixel size yet must not be larger than 1,024 kb = 1 megabyte. Ensure images are well-illuminated. I can post your images you upload to the BrickPix or you can follow Art Benstein's bright and happy instructions.



Questions?

Hope that helps.
--
7 240s total since 1984. 3 240s today and rotting away.








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1972 142 S rust question 140-160 1972









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1972 142 S rust question 140-160 1972



https://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/13569.jpg
--
7 240s total since 1984. 3 240s today and rotting away.








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1972 142 S rust question 140-160 1972

There is a repair/patch panel for that area that's available for $25.00 each.

There is a lot of prep work needed before these can be properly installed. And don't be surprised if you find the rust has spread further than the perimeter of the patch panel.

With rust repair, you don't know the complete extent of the damage until you remove all of the rusty metal. it is not unusual to have to fabricate additional patch sections.

Fortunately for you that area is fairly flat. We have changed at least half dozen front floor pans for 122 and 1800 Volvos and although there are excellent full section replacement floor pans, the rust in every case extended about 12" past the end of the stock overlap at the front edge of the replacement floor pans. And unfortunately there is a compound bend as the floor angles inward at this point so it takes some skill to fashion a template and then fabricate a patch.

Are you planning on repairing the rust yourself? Welding will be required, preferably MIG or TIG welding. We have a MIG welder and we prefer overlapped seams and plug welding where ever possible.

And make sure to remove the lower and upper rear seats before you start grinding and welding!!
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com







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