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Dear 1pocket,
Hope you're well. If the motor runs, when the switch is moved, then the switch and motor aren't the problem.
The first thing to do is to check the seat tracks to make sure something - e.g., a coin - isn't jamming the drive gear. If there are no obstructions, then the problem is with the seat motor drive cable. The drive cables have squared ends, that go into recesses in the motor's shaft and in the seat drive mechanism.
A drive cable squared end, that engages the motor's shaft or the seat drive mechanism likely has become "rounded".
Thus, although the motor turns, the torque is not transmitted to the seat drive mechanism, via the cable. Rounding can occur at either end of the drive cable. end, i.e., that which goes into the motor's shaft or that which goes into the seat drive mechanism.
This problem is best solved by removing the seat from the car. To make safe the SRS system - the sensor is secured to the floor pan, under the driver's seat - remove the negative battery cable clamp from the negative battery terminal. Wait 20 minutes. This allows any capacitors in the SRS sensor to discharge (or so I'm told). Put the negative battery cable clamp in a plastic bag, to isolate it. An Airbag deployment at close quarters can be lethal. Dropping a seat on the sensor might trigger an airbag deployment.
There' a cure for a rounded-end on a seat drive cable. See the FAQs.
Rather than cut the cable sheath, I used a short length of a finishing nail (6d or 8d - don't recall) to "lengthen" the cable. I inserted the short length of steel nail into the recess, at the end opposite that of the rounded cable end. That has the effect of forcing the cable further into the recess, so that the squared section engages the square recess. If, with the addition of the short section of nail (3/16"-1/4") the cable is too long, cut-off an equal length of the "rounded" section, which may be 1/4" or less, then insert the short section of nail.
I'd use a Dremel (or similar hand-held motor with a tool-holder) and a cut-off wheel to cut-off the rounded section. Using a cut-off wheel will produce a clean cut (unlike a nippers, which will crush the end of the cable).
This fix has worked for years, as I rarely need to move the seat front-to-back.
Be sure to record the radio's "code", as disconnecting the battery's negative cable clamp from the battery will put the radio into an error condition. The code is required to re-activate the radio. If You don't have the code, and the radio is the factory-installed unit, a dealer should be able to give You the radio's code: you'll need to supply the VIN. If the radio is a Volvo replacement, You'll need to pull the radio and give the dealer the radio's serial number, on a label affixed to the radio. If that label is missing, then the radio is "dead".
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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