Hey everyone,
I'm looking at the following 240 on CL:
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/d/garden-grove-1992-volvo-240-wagon-1/6981727930.html
What are your thoughts? Odometer stopped working back in 2013, owner estimates 240k on the engine. Carfax is clean; catalytic converter repaired back in '15. What should I look out for? This will be my first Volvo, and I'm looking for a car that I can drive daily. I have a budget of around 7k (price of car + any mechanical + refurb work after purchase). I've been wanting a 240 wagon for a few years now and have been waiting for the right one to come along.

Thanks for reading
240buyer

I had a '92 245 years ago-- great car, but I'm not sure this is a good starter Volvo...

Things that need to be examined carefully:

1) blower motor-- not a particularly expensive part, but a nightmare to pay to replace. Think 10 hours of labor at $100/hr plus parts...

2) rear trailing arm bushings-- nasty job. It requires a special tool to press the bushings out and the new ones in. At 240K, it undoubtedly needs front control arm bushings and probably the rear trailing arm bushings too unless they have been done before.

3) R12 air conditioning-- if you need to make repairs, you will have to convert it to r134a. Not impossible, but not trivial.

4) front seat grids-- 240s have super comfortable seats, unless the grids/springs are broken or missing. I rebuilt my seats back in the day, but I am not sure if the seat grids are still available.

5) tailgate hinges and harness-- poorly engineered parts, not so hard to fix but can be tedious. Not sure if the hinges are still available.

I think that these great cars only make sense if you are a committed DIY person. I had to do loads of work to keep mine road-worthy, and it had half the mileage of the one you are looking at. I replaced it with a 2000 V70, and frankly, I haven't looked back. When I picked mine up 16 years ago, there were still plenty of parts in the local boneyards. Now it is getting difficult to find first generation V70s...

Yes, 240’s are not as trouble free as their rep. Electrical issues being a big one! Agree that you need to be a DIYer. Rust free examples are non-existent in the north unless brought in from somewhere else...
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

There are two for sale on Austin TX craigslist at what looks like note lots. Probably zero rust.

I live near San Antonio, and I try to find cars from here or Southwards (but not from the coastal areas.) Anything North of Austin could have been exposed to salted roads occasionally. I'm still amazed at the condition of my newest addition, a one-owner, '79 244,totally rust-free, with original paint which still shines, thanks to spending most of it's life in a garage. And Volvo used to say their cars would last 11 years.

The liftage Hinges are worn and require replacement now.

Liftgate is the Volo name for the rear hatch or other funny names we call it. Space hatch docking port for groceries and doggies, and grocery eating doggies.

Resized to 900 pixel width.


Driver seat seat web requires renewal.

catalytic converter repaired back in '15

Replaced. Usually due to engine control failure. Is a CHECK ENGINE instrument cluster dash light on? An image of the dash lights before engine start helps so you know none of the lights do not display. Though silly CA-state silly SMOG emissions inspection requires dash lights to work. There may be exception for non-CA-state market cars brought into silly CA-state. I'm unsure. I paid for and worked my duff off for two California State U. diplomas and never got a post college job in CA, so I resent CA-state wholly and utterly. Yet I despise MO-state, where I am now, and Saint Louis, as much and more. WA-state rules as does MI-state.

I like the OEM dog gate and cargo-area mat.

Not a fan of greasing up all with Armor all or some other detailing shiny stuff.

Ask the seller to post videos of a cold engine start using a quality mobile phone or video camera to record video so we can hear the engine. Post to YouTube or however. I want to hear the engine crank and engine control bring engine to idle without the assistant using the gas pedal. Engine should start without gas pedal use as it is a fuel inject engine.

It would also be useful the seller check the DTC (diagnostic trouble codes). Socket 2 is fuel injection control and socket six is ignition control.

If the red light flashes out a code other than 1-1-1, repeat until no new fault codes display.

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

Perform:
1. Diagnostic Test Mode 1: Fault Code Retrieval

This 1992 Volvo 240 is equipped with:
Bosch LH-Jetronic 2.4 Fuel Injection
Bosch EZK116 Ignition

So you know what tables to reference for the meaning to the DTC fault code the red light flashed out.

The door exterior window scrapers are probably not in good shape. Probably original. The inner door cards (pressboard forms attached to the door interiors) are bulging from water intrusion into the doors. Replacement sets are available from iPd made of neoprene or something better than the partially synthetic carbon rubber installed at the factory.

If you can swing 4800$ + 1200$ to ship to you in where? NYC or the Atlantic NE? You will have some 1000 in parts if you buy quality. More if you use a repair service shop. Also, consider labor rates.

I'd dicker downward to maybe 2800-3800$ as there is much work to do.

I'll bet you have a garage. Care to spare? I have no garage, and rear wheel bearing to inspect on all three 240 I own, exhaust manifold to cylinder head gaskets to replace on two, and trailing arm bushes on two 240s, yet more, like both fuel pumps in two 240s I own. You also may want to perform some preventative fuel pump and such action like air inatek port to cylinder head gasket if not already.

Better stop now. Here comes the earl grey tea theobromine, so off to apply to more jobs.

Where is Uncle Old Duke? Not been here since 12 June 2019.



cheers,

Peanut Butter and Earl Grey Tea Boyeeeeeeeee on Friday Mourn.
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I'm in CT. And no I unfortunately don't have a garage (though I really would like one). I'm renting at this point, and I move every year or so. My plan would be to ship it cross country or fly out and drive it back. "It" being whatever 240 I end up pulling the trigger on. I'm not looking for a perfect example, but something that serves as a solid foundation. I am not a mechanic/hobbyist nor do I have the knowledge to make repairs myself. So I appreciate the input you have provided. I am searching primarily in CA / the west coast because I've found the general market and condition of 240s to be better there (rust is my biggest enemy in New England). However this adds another level of complexity to buying a wagon because I cannot see these cars in person, which creates a lot of risk considering my layman knowledge of these cars from a mechanical perspective. I am prepared to invest in a 240 so that I can use it as a long term primary vehicle (my budget is around $7k, though I don't want to spend that amount on repairs all at once). I have also been keeping a close eye on the 240s that post on Bring A Trailer, because I generally trust that platform and there have been some great examples on the site. It's tough because this is a long waiting game. Ideally I'd like a '91.

I understand. Caveat Emptor.

The Anaheim / LA example is, in my opinion, overpriced at 4800$.

Possibly 1200$+ to ship to you. A 2900 or so mile drive at 2.90-4$ a gallon regular unleaded.

As Dan Pageda mentions, and I agree, it may be $1500-$2000 in parts alone. The risk one takes on in making purchase. In your instance, you are without garage, like me, so you are at the hourly shop rate of 70-140$ hourly in CT for diagnostic and repair labor. At least you are near FCP Euro in Groton and Tasca Volvo in RH-state makes for quick parts delivery.

That is if the shop allows you to provide your own parts for the repair.

I'm guessing on the paint, yet can tell the paint was re-shot and somewhat recently.

Other, closer locales may offer up 240 with little or no rust like the deep south, though exclude Saint Louis, well south of the Mason-Dixon line by climate and attitude. The rust belt of decay begins here and move North and East.

Seek TX-state to and including FL-state. Craigslists help. You can use both Bing and Google to search, or choose Atlanta, GA craigslist and click nearby areas, all of them.

Part of the, ahem, 'joy' of out of production auto ownership is servicing it yourself. The visceral effort with trailing arm bushing replacement, well, any suspension and exhaust work, can bring effusive swearing and when the work is done, and it works, confidence to do more. You beat the system.

As for model year range, choose 1989-1993 model year range. Final engine control system version with primitive OBD-1, the red light DTC tester.

A search on the Hartford, CT craigslist and nearby areas ...

Yet also check the eBay market place, the ClassAds here, the iPd free Classifieds, you know BAT, eBay. There may be Volvo enthusiast pages on facebook for your area or state.

The VCOA has a Hartford, CT chapter near you.

Southern New England Chapter
https://www.sites.google.com/site/snevcoa/

They may have a facebook page also. The annual fees are low. They are hosting events in the coming weeks you may want to attend. Speak with what 240 owners show up to chose case their 240!


Near New Haven, CT. Perhaps you've seen this already.

1993 Volvo 240 wagon - $6500 (Madison) Posted 19 days ago
https://newhaven.craigslist.org/cto/d/clinton-1993-volvo-240-wagon/6970701030.html

Probably won't sell at a fair price of maybe 2500-3700$ 6500$ is far too dear. That is a blue vinyl interior. Not leather.



Why a "Perfect car for restoration project"? What's wrong with it? What does it need for repair, calculate that up for parts and labor, and make deductions. No engine bay images or under body images. "Serious inquiries only" may mean serious negotiation. More so if it languishes for sale for some time. It has also been in a front end collision. The white paint does not match yet the structural repair as seen in the exterior images appears ok. Get those repair records.

It helps if you are adept at diagnosing these or other used cars for rust or failing cylinder head gasket. Or anticipate treating this issue should they appears shortly or some time after purchase.

Another 1993 with M47 II five speed manual transmission, with rust.

Rust is like an iceberg, there is more hidden than what you can see, sometimes. Rust acts like an infection. After mechanical rust treatment such as wire wheels and such, use Naval Jelly, Fertran, or POR-15 methods.

1993 Volvo 240 Wagon 5-Speed - $4500 (Lyme, CT) Posted 2019-09-15 22:43

https://newlondon.craigslist.org/cto/d/old-lyme-1993-volvo-240-wagon-5-speed/6979555893.html



Should you make purchase, you create an account here to learn. You may have what it takes to grasp electromechanics for repairs you can perform. Yet you acquire tools also. So, the effort racks up expenses wither way. Used tools from craigslist or pawn shop helps. Not all tools are created equally for tolerance and durability.

Another CT-state Volvo 240 Wagon contender for your conideration:

https://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/d/brooklyn-1993-volvo-240-stationwagon/6975119763.html

1993 Volvo 240 Stationwagon - $1400 (Brooklyn) Posted 2019-09-09 17:44



They will all need work of some sort. It goes by mileage, neglect, yet age also plays a part. Liftgate hinges are usually ignore until the liftgate bits like the wiper, third brake light, or the rear defrost / demist quit.

These are closer you and in two instances cheaper and all are closer to you, so a short drive back or a short transport to you.

Other options. I used the Hartford, CT craigslist and chose all nearby areas. 240 Wagon from 1990-1993.

Volvo 240 Wagon 1993 - $3200 (Collegeville, PA) Posted 2019-09-22 14:08

https://reading.craigslist.org/cto/d/collegeville-volvo-240-wagon-1993/6984186532.html


1993 240 wagon - $2500 NH-state. Posted 2019-09-21 17:53

https://nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/litchfield-wagon/6983772280.html


Volvo 240 Wagon - $1475 (Ashaway, RH) Posted 2019-09-14 15:52

https://providence.craigslist.org/cto/d/ashaway-volvo-240-wagon/6978748487.html

1991 VOLVO 240 WAGON, AUTO, 241K MILES - $1500 (NORTH CONWAY, NH) Posted 2019-09-10 10:22

https://nh.craigslist.org/ctd/d/1991-volvo-240-wagon-auto-241k-miles/6975479316.html


1990 volvo 240 s/w - $1195 (merrimack,nh) Posted 2019-08-27 09:38

https://nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/merrimack-1990-volvo-240-w/6965623401.html


Questions?

Hope that helps you to reconsider searching far afield. Not all 240s in the USA rust-belt are rusted much, if at all.

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Get the 5-speed with the IPD bars. A COMPLETELY different car than a stock auto 245. Better handling and better pick and highway speed. 167k miles is not so bad.
Probably needs shocks and some other high mileage stuff. Still... Use that to negotiate down.
$4500 may seem high, but remember an M47 245 with 89k sold for $13,000+. And a 93 M47 with squirter block is hard to find.

IMO M47 5-speeds are the only 245 to get.

You are kidding right????

take a look a the images in that CraigsListing....
https://newlondon.craigslist.org/cto/d/old-lyme-1993-volvo-240-wagon-5-speed/6979555893.html

Note Image 21 and Image 22. The Rust in the rear quarter panel and the Rocker.

Also note well in Image 22---The wheel well exposed by the open rear door. The Round Small Rubber Plug near the top right. Volvo put those and a few more seen when the doors are opened, as ports for Rust inhibitors or light oil that can be sprayed, or even just plain old 90W gear oil which can be dribbled into the cavity to Prevent the 14/panel and rocker from rusting inside-out.

The Owner paid zero attention to caring for this car. I suspect there is worse rust elsewhere---possibly structural.

And they want $4500??????????????????/

You would like a pristine 245 so you can park it outside in salt haven Connecticut? Forget bringing a 240 to a Volvo dealer, none of the mechanics know how to work on them, they were born after the last 240 came off the assembly line.

If you are really set on buying a rust free 245, driving it home from the left coast or the Southwest is the easiest option, that way you can buy 4 good snow tires when you get back to CT.

After purchase, get a Chilton's manual that covers the model year, get some basic tools, a good jack, a multimeter, a box of gloves, and learn how to DIY. It will break down. Parts will wear out. The 1992 is 28 years old! Don't expect a shop to replace the cabin blower for under $2,000.

All due respect, Klaus, but Chiltons? Might as well buy a comic book.


240buyer,

The Bentley manual is still available although it is expensive. $69.95 from the publisher. 544 pages.

www.bentleypublishers.com/volvo/

It is a must for the inexperienced 240 owner in spite of some errors, most if not all of which have been noted by the late Bruce Young with, "Much valuable new input from Art Benstein..."

Should you buy a 240, buy a copy of this manual. Then see this Brickboard post

www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1330795/220/240/260/280/bentley_errata_update.html

and make the corrections in red ink.


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'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon, '15 XC70 T6

Or a used manual:

https://www.barnesandnoble.com/p/volvo-240-service-manual-1983-through-1993-robert-bentley-inc/1101319451/2662416595020?st=PLA&sid=BNB_ADL+Marketplace+Generic+Used+Books+-+Desktop+Medium&sourceId=PLAGoNA&dpid=tdtve346c&2sid=Google_c&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuZDtBRDvARIsAPXFx3D6hx5sjo7u0L7jb3ra6VHsAXSBSDK9ZUFNLKcdLqtJfN3m6B9KMfQaAgMIEALw_wcB

The Chiltons served me well for my 1988 245 and 1988 780. Not as detailed of course, but good enough for general trouble shooting. The FAQ's were even better than the manual, but I liked the pictures!

Yeah, my Bentley was stolen helping a guy in Spokane with his 1986 sedan in 2013 or so. I beseeched him to lube the hinges. So, a front driver door hing stop broke. He asks me again to fix his Volvo. I get too focused on the repair and do not realize the manual missing months later when I wanted to reference it.

The Bentley 240 errata article posted here:

Bentley Errata Update 200

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1330795/220/240/260/280/bentley_errata_update.html
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Don't give up tho.

when I was buying 240s,(last in 1997) where I live the DC suburbs, Md and NoVa vied for the title of More Volvos per Capita...to and fro with Seattle.

8 years old and under 100K+ish...dump in 2 grand and. the most I ever paid was 5500 for an 80 240 sedan w/ 79K no extra money on the backside required.

Oh but those days are gone...sweet dreams....240s herebouts a few here and there.


240s, a Long Line but just not LUXO enough(once they were status in Chevy Chase and Potomac) for Profits and Stats

Good luck in your quest...best advice...learn some basic 240 mechanic stuff. Otherwise you are just a walking Open Billfold.

Video--- Motor Week MPT...back in the day. $13K for n 85 240 Wagon New

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0NOcj6pgW4

Please keep in mind that "rust free" cars can be found in other parts of the country besides California. I'm near San Antonio Tx. and if we see a rusted car around here, it's most likely been imported from up north. New Mexico & Arizona are also great places to find rust free examples. However, the sun does take a toll on paint & interiors if parked outside

OK this further info changes.
I assumed you had money...cuing off Shipping the car from Cali to the east coast.
and that this buy would be because you just wanted to own a 240 Wagon.

However based on...

"I am prepared to invest in a 240 so that I can use it as a long term primary vehicle

"my budget is around $7k"
"am not a mechanic/hobbyist nor do I have the knowledge to make repairs myself. "

Say no more---forget this 'dream" Volvo.
Because your first Problem after you accept delivery will be finding someone to work in this...at less than $65 an hour/labor.

As for the 'driving' it across county. To do that you should get the Golden Super Plan from AAA. Then hope they can find a shop that knows 240's for the destination of your Discount Tow.

Too Blunt?

I usually expect to spend about $2000 to get a new to me 240 up to snuff but I do my own work.

Generally you can tell the over all corrosion condition from engine compartment pictures, those pics indicate to me this car is in pretty good condition.

I didn't realize the car was recently painted so that adds an unknown about the condition of the body was before paint and what may have been covered up. I'm pretty sure corrosion wasn't an issue with this car.

It would also be nice to know what kind of maintenance has been done on it and was it kept up to date.

Again a pre sale inspection by a Volvo person would be ideal.

Dan

It looks pretty good in the pictures, does the seller have complete repair records?

Pre purchase inspection would ease your fears, if it is legit it will sell quickly.
Dan

how long since the last timing change? brakes/tires??

It would benefit from new tires, primarily the front Right which is leaking some air (bad seal maybe?) per the owner. Brakes and timing belt I'm not sure about. Owner was pretty adamant that absolutely nothing needs to be addressed mechanically.

interesting that there are no pics under the hood.

However it have the $$$ to ship this puppy across country. Just buy it. You can surely dump at not too much of a loss, just on the seemingly poifect body.

Here's a link to the photo's under the hood that seller sent me:
https://imgur.com/a/8d6NVdH

I suppose I could break even here on the east coast, as 240's tend to sell for more on this side of the country.

This 1992 Volvo 240 Wagon has not been well maintained. At the apparent 228k miles, other than a repaint with clear coat, and exterior trim bits that hang on, a dog gate, it appears in good condition yet belies the need for some serious care that will be expensive if you cannot effect mechanical restoration yourself.

You will want to familiarize yourself with the Volvo 700-900 Series FAQ hosted here on your brickboard. That FAQ lists items affecting systems sahred with 240 in adjacent years.

I continue to seek an article about buy used 700-900 series here. I believed there was such an article. So, read here as a start:

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/HighMileageVehiclePrevMaint.htm


Brake Fluid, Other Fluids, Wheel Bearing Grease Pack

Brake fluid is black as pitch. Black brake fluid causes seized brake calipers eventually. Also causes other failures where old, black, acidic brake fluid contacts all things inside the brake system.

I guess the brake fluid could be blue ATE fluid that is old. New ATE blue DOT-4 brake fluid is not nearly that dark. I use Walmart SuperTech DOT-4

Brake fluid is well neglected by owners of RWD Volvo. I'd suspect other fluid replacement timeliness.

See my write up on flushing in new DOT-4 brake fluid into my 1992 240 GL sedan with ABS. The fluid was not too old, yet older than should be allowed. Shame on me!

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1662538/220/240/260/280/new_pads_resurface_rotors_hows_brake_fluid_black.html

Related to fluids is wheel bearing grease pack. At 228k miles, the rear wheel bearings should have, at least once, if not 3-4 times since new, been inspected and if okay, cleansed of old NLGI-2 wheel bearing grease and repacked with new. As deep and capacious as the rear wheel bearing well is in 240 and older RWD Volvo, grease pack is not forever. Use Volvo or better quality wheel bearing grease. If merely stuffing new grease into anything, ensure the grease is a compatible soap complex as what the factory installed. Volvo uses an aluminum soap complex in them wheel bearing grease tubes. Same for the front wheel bearings though these can be less fussy so long as grease pack is not lost. The inner front wheel bearing seal is probably better treated as it is more accessible.

Same thing with the drive shaft front and rear section splined interface. These also need grease and are always neglected. So stuff a bunch of NLGI-2 wheel bearing grease. I'm under the service interval. Mind driveshaft alignment on reassembly.

Two Engine & One Transmission Mount(s), Other Bushings

I suspect the engine mounts / transmission mount are not recent. The engine sags rearwards.

The exhaust side strut mount may be original. In the image here (I did not not resize):



... the bushing material has started separation from the exterior surface of the bearing assembly. Yet these mounts are not domed upward as old and newer cheapo mounts do. Volvo PN 1272455 is junk from the dealer. You best choice is the camber plate from Kaplhenke as in this article. Though I do not seethe as much as I did when Volvo migrated from the Boge OEM strut mount with SKF, Timkin, or the other quality open to the top ball bearing. See this article. You'll have suspension work to do front and rear.

Kaplhenke
https://www.bneshop.com

Volvo OEM strut mounts .. early Failure?
The article about new Volvo OEM 1272455. Meyle and MTC and other brands do the same thing.

http://turbobricks.org/forums/showthread.php?t=315522

The rear suspension trailing arm bushings are shot. The aft end sags downwardly. The differential does not suffer so long as you replace these bushings. The rear trailing arm bushings are a huge pain if installed (pressing) out old and in new solid rubber mounts. Rust is not an issue so consider the SuperPro rear (large) bushings without the outer bushing shell. Same for the front if SuperPro makes these. The factory trailing arm bushing out shells are probably not rusty so leave as is. Use a lot of silicon lube like SuperLube NLGI-2 silicon grease with urethane bushes.

Coolant Expansion Tank Appears Nearly Empty
I see some coolant at the bottom of the expansion tank well below the MIN level mark.

Use Zerex G05, Pentafrost NF (I guess NF?), or Prestone antifreeze for the four metal types in Volvo 240 coolant system. Folks ask, "what fourth metal?" The tin used in the heater core solder welds. So, silicates, I guess, in the antifreeze. Only distilled (like Walmart Distilled gallon jugs - not drinking water jugs) and never tap water. See the 700-900 Cooling and Fluid article pages.

Also, on the radiator, the engine coolant sensor is not connected, so I guess the electric pusher fan in front of the A/C condenser is remove, seized as lube ran dry at the sintered bearing, or something. Probably not connected after radiator replacement.



There is a hole in the fan shroud on the exhaust side. Also, the engine "belly" pan is not present. You want the engine belly pan.

The top exhaust side secure point of the water pump fan shroud uses some home-made method to secure it.

The motor / transmission mounts may not be too bad as there is some gap between the engine rear and the bulkhead firewall.

EGR?

I do not see EGR. ALL CA-state market 240s from sometime in the later 1970s required exhaust gas recirculation (EGR). This 1992 240 Wagon is not originally CA-market.

Germany also mandates EGR as my 1991 240 sedan can attest.

Oh, originally sold in the Sweden federal car market. Sweden did not require EGR at that time on new cars in 1992.



I guess that does it.

Questions?
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Thank you for taking the time to respond.
I would not have identified those issues had you not pointed them out. Clearly there is more work to be done than I had anticipated.

Glad to helps. No bother fr me. Glad to help the RWD Volvo cause!

I found some 1989-1993 240 Wagons for you near you later in this thread with replies from Mr. Nabisco. Though I'll guess you've researched these through local and nearby craigslist?

Yeah, you get the wacky crackpots selling a bucket of rust for some high price. I got a critical eye-bulb. I'll download the images and use GIMP or some other bitmap image editing application where you can raise the gamma (or contrast + brightness).

I'll always want images of the engine bay in multiple perspectives. When I go visit with a prospective, usually forlorn 240, I ask the engine be cold (not started that day) and begin the tire kick procedure.

Yet with what is an antique auto in most US states, really helps to be mechanically inclined. RWD Volvo may be very durable, yet age, neglect, and accumulated miles may make ownership very expensive for you rather quickly.

You may want to research this forum, or ask in a new thread, as to what it takes to own one of these 240s and how much it will take. Relying on a repair service can eat up your 7k$ budget quickly if the prior owner does not tell you of head gasket failure or you cannot discern th auditory quality between a noise valve train, a piston slap, or something to be concerned of as a high or low knock, a manual M47 transmission with the failing bearing noise, or rear axle noise such as the failing rear wheel bearing growl. Yet may be an easily (to me) or your repair service rear drive shaft section u-joint replacement.

You may want to consider alternatives like a mid 2010s Toyota with records. Unless you have something like this and your Volvo 240 fascination is a second car as both hobby and daily driver.

Caveat emptor. Better get informed and practiced with simple diagnostic by sight, ear, and touch, sometimes smell, before some seller cajoles you into a money pit.

Hope that helps. I'd rather your 240 experience be a joyous one.

Spare the 1972 Volvo 164 with manual M410 transmission for me. My most coveted RWD Volvo!
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Timing belt every 70k on 93’s. At 240k or so I would be surprised if it didn’t some work. Most people don’t replace everything that s high mileage car like that needs. Suggest spending a $100 or so and have the seller take it to a Volvo dealer for pre-purchase inspection for you.
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

I will see if there's a shop near the seller and suggest this. Thanks.

Nice color! Interestingly, at my local beach parking lot this afternoon I saw the nicest 240 wagon I’ve see in awhile. Probably a 92, black and surprisingly clean for a Massachusetts car. I rarely see any 240’s anymore (most are rusted out here) and this one was exceptionally clean.

On my phone at the moment so I will need to look at the ad later.

Looks clean in the picture but with roughly 240k on it there will inevitably be repairs required. Have you seen it or driven it yet? If not, go check it out, drive it and ask the owner if they have repair records. After evaluating the exterior, interior and mechanical condition you can decide whether to move forward or run away...:) At that mileage look for exhaust smoke, excessive engine noise, engine performance - smoothness and power. Listen for transmission noise or difficulty shifting. Look underneath for leaks under transmission and engine. Evaluate suspension performance. Handling, ride, looseness, noise etc. If you can obtain repair records or get back to us with a list of repairs completed that would help us narrow our focus on possible repairs still needed. At roughly 240k there are a lot of things that might still need work.
J
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Hey thanks for the response. Unfortunately this is a California car and I am on the East coast. I am looking for a rust-free west coast 240. I am assuming a decent amount of risk by buying a west coast vehicle site unseen, so I cannot test drive these cars myself or do a thorough in-person inspection.

If you could live with a 244 instead of a wagon, I might be persuaded to part with my totally rust free, '79 S. Tx. car with only 78K miles on the clock. The paint still shines & interior & carpet still look new. Can send phone # if interested.Thanks

Thanks for the offer. I'm pretty set on getting a wagon though, will need the cargo space.

Get repair records! Get repair records!

Also try to line up an independent Volvo mechanic out there to do a pre-purchase inspection. Or use a Volvo dealer. That should be about a 1 hour labor charge.
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

There is a fantastic volvo mechanic in Palmdale, CA that I've been in contact with over the last couple months, but he's 1.5 hours away from this car's location.
And fortunately the owner of this 240 has original records going back to the 90s.