the Library - links from OZ.

https://ozvolvo.org/archive/

scroll down looking for this set, as seen in the list, in order.

Volvo/240 Green Books/2_21 TP30170-2_engine_reconditioning_B21_B23_part_1.pdf
Volvo/240 Green Books/2_21 TP30170-2_engine_reconditioning_B21_B23_part_2.pdf
Volvo/240 Green Books/2_23 tp30454 CI System .pdf
Volvo/240 Green Books/2_24 TP11121-3_ci_fuel_injection_repairs.pdf
Volvo/240 Green Books/2_24 TP12043-2_ci_fuel_injection_construction.pdf
Volvo/240 Green Books/2_24 TP12043-4_ci_fuel_injection_construction.pdf
Volvo/240 Green Books/2_24 TP12044-1_ci_fuel_injection_fault_tracing.pdf
Volvo/240 Green Books/2_25 TP30363-2_cis_system_repairs.pdf
Volvo/240 Green Books/2_25 TP30400-1_co_adjustment.pdf
Volvo/240 Green Books/2_25 TP30727-1_emission_control_systems.pdf
Volvo/240 Green Books/2_25-29 TP30163- engines_b21_b23_part_1.pdf
Volvo/240 Green Books/2_25-29 TP30163- engines_b21_b23_part_2.pdf

there could be more info, it's not a well organized "archive"

Cheers

Hi,

This period of time is the worse thing that can be done to harm a K-Jet system. Everyone in this thread has already stressed that point so far.

The quickest thing to checkout, to find out how bad it’s gummed up, is to remove the rubber bellows from under the throttle body.
This boot covers the fuel distributors air flow flap. It is a very delicate apparatus and cannot be stuck or doing any kind of sticking, as it has to float on the up flow of air when the engine cranks.
Otherwise, the injectors do not get fuel.

You should be able to use some compressed air from a hose stuck in the air filter housing and blow it up the hose towards the air flap. It should not take any kind of direct blast to bump the flap up.
It’s more or less just a breathe of a breeze when it’s working correctly.

Once you get it to lift gently you can prop it up in the open position.
If and when you do get the pumps operational, I would run a good amount of a carburetor cleaner solvent through them and later on up to the filter line disconnect junction.
It sounds like the old fuel filter may have collapsed or is clogged severely with age. You don’t want that stuff getting out of there if it could!

After that, using a new filter, remove all the injectors from the end lines so you get a clear flow path throughput of the fuel distributor and the fuel pressure regulator system.
There are screens at the head of both units. It will take some time to dissolve the gel in front or laying on them but it should dissolve.
Pumping and sitting, to let the stuff soak a little will be mostly about using a method of patience.
Try a gallon can of ChemTool B12 and circulate it as an option. It works fast and is more available in large quantities. At least in my areas.
You might try a 50/50 mix with gasoline in a cleaned fuel tank or another container setup for the small pump to feed the inlet to the main pump. The engine can run on this but it may be rough to idle. For carbureted cars, I have a kit that puts a can liquid directly into the float bowls.

By removing the injectors you will bypass any more crud (congealed gasoline and possible varnish) from getting into the screens of the injectors, if they have them, or plugging up the pintle of each injector. You can check the entrance of them and flush with spray.
Good time to inspect the O-rings of the housings.

Injectors will not open until you get 35 psi of fuel behind them. The pintle’s keep themselves pretty clean due to pressure with the detergents in gasoline and for the intake valves.
Direct fuel injection systems proved that.

After all else is clean you will need to hook them back up and point them into long clear capturing containers and briefly see the spray pattern.
Just a short blip will do, to prove they work and you can calculate up to the total amount. Equality is what to look for with comparable results to the books.
Actually, I don’t know what you could do to adjust it as it’s a highly involved task of bench time using shims inside the pressure regulator.
Also you can measure the amount they flow out and compare the results to the publications provide in this thread for the green books. They talk in there about all this stuff, that requires things that no one like owners have, except those resourceful ones!
I’ll bet if the engine runs it never gets worried about. That’s where I hover a lot! The KISS principle!

Once a K-Jet system is set, by the factory, it’s set!
If cleaned it will be very reliable as long as it is kept clean by always keeping the fuel fresh.
A whole tank full should be used every six months or less!
Even using a fuel stabilization concoction is not recommended for more time than a year, as far as I have read!
Overall, It has more to do with some octane loss, than to prevent congealing. I imagine there have been people that have experimented with longer intervals.

If your lucky this might have been done but it doesn’t sound like it.

Be diligent and it will pay off in many smiles of thanks for putting it back in service.
Yours or ours!

Phil

I wouldn't even attempt to start it. Tow it to your garage so that you can drop the fuel tank and clean all of the sludge out, replace the filter, and clean the injectors. Before you start it, flush the oil and replace the filter. Same goes with the antifreeze. Replace the belts before they snap and check the rollers, PS, AC, alternator making sure they turn easily.

If your concern is that the engine is toast (probably not), pour a table spoon of marvel mystery oil in each spark plug hole, then turn the engine by hand (plugs out).
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new

Thanks for the reply everyone, I know very well there is going to be tons of issues to go through and repair, clean out, replace. However to get it running...even for a second would be a show to me that it is worth putting the money in to slowly bring it back to its glory.

I think it does have the pre pump, I am awaiting my bung tool to be returned from my brother, so I can crack it open. I will try jumping the main pump to see if it works...I have my doubts as it look ROUGH.

I thought about just spraying a shot of starting fluid down the air just to see if it fires? thoughts?

Almost 20 years of sitting. The odds are really good that every system that has/had fluid in it is going to need maintenance. Gaskets and seals and hoses tend to dry out/break down over time - so even after you get the problems associated with stuff just sitting (gunk, corrosion, etc.) - you may find you have leaks you're gonna have to deal with. If it were me I'd go through each system one by one and start by changing the fluid. Brakes, coolant, engine oil, transmission and rearend. There's a good chance that anything with brake fluid in it has picked up enough moisture that you may have corrosion from the inside out. The rubber brake lines are likely completely shot. And it's almost certain that anything with fuel in it has had the gasoline break down - which usually means varnishes that LOVE to clog up, especially, small passages. And there are plenty of those associated with the F.I. system.

So, I think chasing down a possible relay problem is likely to be the least of your issues.
--
82 242-6.2L; '17 Mazda3; '16 Crosstrek

1976 would not have a push pump in the tank and yes, the unit beside the tank is a high pressure pump. You can bypass other potential problems by jumping the fuel pump relay to see if the pump actually will run. The relay on a '76 will be found above the driver's knees attached to a spring clip. They came in different colors over the years--could be green, could be white, possibly others as well. It's a six blade relay about 3x2x1 inches and will have a 10 gauge (thick) red wire -- that's hot all the time. Jump that to the yellow w/red stripe wire (goes to the pump). If there are other problems that keep the pump from getting energized when the key is turned this jumping will energize the pump and allow the motor to run.
That would be a first step. Things may be gummed up in the fuel distributor and/or poor electrical connections throughout. - Dave