Volvo RWD 444-544 Forum

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Awful gas mileage 444-544

Been having a really hard time tuning my car to get it not suck fuel like it was going out of style. I might get 120 miles out of the tank. I'm running very rich at a setting where I'm not hesitating out of 1st or 2nd gear. I've tried leaning the carbs off but never able to get a good compromise.

Here's my build:

1963 544
Rebuilt B18D with 0.040 pistons
K cam
stock 4-1 manifold and skinny exhaust
rebuilt HS6 dual carbs with ZH needles
new 8mm spark plug wires
new Pierburg fuel pump to replace the glass bowl
New coil
B20 ignition
240 distributor (all new points, condensor, rotor)

I suspect it's the K cam and that I'm not running an efficient setup for it. Can anyone give me some help? Thanks!








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    Awful gas mileage 444-544

    Is your distributor fully advancing. Without advancing your fuel will not be ignited completely by the time the piston Top Dead Center.TDC. Check with a timing light and check plugs for good healthy spark.








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      Awful gas mileage 444-544

      Trying to figure out the timing curve for this weird 240 distributor I have. I'm sure it has something to do with it. Combined with the K cam, I bet my valve lash and timing needs some work. It's just not a usual setup and I may try to find a dizzy that is more readily compatible.

      It's a K cam with a 240 Bosch distributor with a serial of 0231170085








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        Awful gas mileage 444-544

        Questions - How do you know this distributor came from a 240? A 1975 240 would have had a B20F motor with electronic ignition and that system works just fine in earlier B18/20 motors. If it came from a B21 it has electronic ignition, mounts differently, has a gear drive rather than the offset slot and rotates clockwise rather than counter-clockwise (affecting the swing-out weights). To install it on the B18/20 would require major modifications, if it could even be done. Photos to determine what you have would be helpful.
        I have a number of spare distributors from various B18/20 models if you need one. If you want to contact me--post here or email me at --- fastforwardphoto(AT)yahoo(DOT)com---or call--six-three-one-968-8933. - Dave








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          Awful gas mileage 444-544

          It's the former: B20F it appears. It bolts on with no modifications. The problem I'm having now is that it appears the vacuum advance isn't working on it (might be the diaphragm). A friend is going to put on a more common dizzy from a B18 to see if this is the issue.








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            Awful gas mileage 444-544

            OK, that makes more sense - however - the '75 distributor is electronic so can I assume it has the correct amplifier? -- which should have a part number ending in 005. I know this because I've been running my 1969 144S B20 with this system (taken from a 1975 245) for years. ANOTHER THING - You DO NOT have vacuum advance -- you have vacuum retard. Disconnect it and plug the vacuum port and leave it disconnected--unless the motor wont come down to idle speed with the throttle closed, in which case the vacuum retard will slow the idle. Timing should be set at 10 degrees BTDC at idle with the vacuum disconnected. I set mine to maximum advance - run the engine to 3,500 rpm and set the distributor to 35 degrees advance. ALSO - This system should employ a resistor (I use a commonly available one made for Chrysler cars) with power to the amplifier running through it except for start-up which is wired to bypass the resistor. This system requires the use of a starter motor that has the extra (small blade) terminal that provides 12 volts when cranking. I think this may be your answer. ONE OTHER THING - the electronic distributor has an electric winding inside that can short out. When travelling far--carry a spare--or what's needed to revert to a points and condenser distributor - that saved my butt on I-80 in PA in the middle of nowhere. Changing the winding involves some fiddly bits that best be left done in the shop. -- Dave








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              Awful gas mileage 444-544

              Are you sure this is a vacuum retard? Its serial is 0231170085 JFU4 which I thought indicated it was a vacuum advance.








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                Awful gas mileage 444-544

                IGNITION TIMING: Do NOT use the vacuum part of the dizzy. You just want one that idles at 10° and advances to 34° by 3000rpm, depending on your compression ratio. When you are checking ignition timing, see if both 1 & 4 give the same results. Vacuum advance is only of use if you have a super lean needle and a tiny A cam, OR a carburettor with a power valve.

                EXHAUST SYSTEM: 1st, check to see if the guts of a muffler have not collaped internally, get someone to rev it up & down & see if the exhaust flow seem sufficent.

                EXHAUST DESIGN: For K cam and twins SU's, D-Jet or K-Jet, use the stock twin downpipe arrangement. I recommend extending the 1.75" downpipes so that the length of 2-3 pipe attains 40" of length from the exhaust valve to the end & use the same style of 2-1 collector in mandrel bent form. Out of the collector, 2" pipe of 36" dumping in to a 2.5" pipe before the front muffler of 2.5", overaxle pipe of 2.5", then into the second muffler. The 2nd muffler could be 2.5" if you don't mind the volume, or smaller 2.25" or 2.125" muffler if you want it more quite. If you CBF'd with that, use the same exhaust system parts of a B20E/F car, which is 2.125". People forget that the part of the exhaust behind the twin downpipes is the collector, which is as important as the primaries & secondaries. The collector section needs to have a big area change to function, if using smaller, then feed the elongated secondaries in to B20E 2.125" quality parts & make the length from the end of the secondaries to the end of the tailpipe a multiple of 36" i.e. 2x, 4x, 8x 36" (1.8', 3', 6', 12', 24')

                CAM TIMING: Set the valves to .018", wind it around to TDC and see if both valves on 1 or 4 are equally open, turn it around another 360° & check the opposite cylinder. If it's retarded, you are loosing power & torque everywhere and MPG goes down a little too. Ideally, you want 4° to 5° BTDC (aka advanced).

                Almost forgot, make sure you have the correct springs in the SU's AND ATF or 5 weight oil in the dampers. Make sure the choke mechanism doesn't get stuck either!










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                  Awful gas mileage 444-544

                  This is exceptionally detailed and very helpful. I just had my valve lash set to 0.020 so this isn't far off. Mufflers are new. Timing is almost spot on to what you said.

                  Vacuum retard line is still connected but doesn't seem to do anything at any speed. Plug the holes?

                  Could a larger exhaust be really that much of an improvement? I plan on replacing it with a custom kit or one of the VP 2" kits with a double downpipe from an 1800ES and my 123GT 4-2-1 Siamese manifold. I'll see what a local shop can do with some of your recommendations.

                  Thank you.








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                Awful gas mileage 444-544

                Look at the vacuum unit and take note of the direction it faces. It pulls the plate counter clockwise - the same direction as the rotor shaft - so when vacuum is applied, it retards the timing. My electronic distributor's number ends in 003. The points and condenser distributor now on the motor (since the I-80 breakdown) also has a vacuum retard (disconnected). Dave








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    Awful gas mileage 444-544

    For B20s with B18 carbs, we use "D" camshafts and "DX" needles.

    Check your fuel pressure. All of the a newly made fuel pump I have seen need fuel pressure regulators. The fuel pressure needs to less than 4 psi,

    Even though they cost a lot more, we only use quality fuel pressure regulators, usually a Holley, to bring the pressure down.

    Can you provide a more accurate mpg figure?



    --
    Eric
    Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
    Torrance, CA 90502
    hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com








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      Awful gas mileage 444-544

      I actually had an old glass bowl pump that I replaced with the new Pierburg thinking it could be the pump but I've seen no change. Highly doubt it could be the pump, although you might be onto something. I'm using the pretty standard Pierburg that goes with all the B18s.

      I'd say i'm getting about 15mpg. City driving 25% and highway 75%. Short trips I can see my gas gauge go down visibly. Just odd because most of my friends get 25mpg.








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        Awful gas mileage 444-544

        The twin outlet exhaust manifold will help you. From your spec it sounds as if you have the old single outlet one. Not much between the K and the D as far as the potential mpg IMO.
        Needles - http://www.networksvolvoniacs.org/images/4/47/Needle_Types.pdf








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          Awful gas mileage 444-544

          I do have a spare 1967 123GT siamese manifold 4-2-1 manifold waiting to be installed. I assume that connecting that to a 2-1 downpipe and a 2" exhaust couldn't hurt either.

          How could my current setup create such a rich, fuel-wasting environment?








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            Awful gas mileage 444-544

            The 123GT manifold is Volvo's best and useable up to about 145bhp. Yes, it will need to be matched with a twin downpipe exhaust. You can just go with a twin-pipe Simons system if you like. They have a sporty sound and a bit of a whistle which isn't to everyone's taste. The combo will give a bit more power but mpg is usually dependent on your right foot if the carbs are set-up right.
            Is it possible you have a leak in the front to rear pipe? If you have the pipe covered in underseal leaks are sometimes not obvious. Fuel hose seeping at the pump connections due to ethanol failure of the rubber?








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              Awful gas mileage 444-544

              Exhaust has been checked and no leaks. Fuel pump was recently replaced and nothing there either.

              I do look forward to getting the exhaust and manifold upgraded though. I hear great things from it.








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              Awful gas mileage 444-544

              I built a somewhat similar motor for my first 140 - a '68 with B18 - .040 over with K cam and DX needles ('68 already had a 4 to 2 exhaust manifold). I went a bit further and installed a carburetted cylinder head (unknown origin) with 44mm intakes, ported and milled to provide 11:1 compression ratio. Mileage was always in the mid to high 20's range.
              Although you wrote that the carbs have been rebuilt - my question is - does that mean just new jets, needles and float chamber needle valves? Or does it also mean new bushings and throttle shafts? ZH needles are relatively lean and it seems to me you have a vacuum issue. Leaks at the throttle shaft cause you to set the mixture rich at idle for decent idle and "take-off" but then it too rich for driving speed. I'd look to spray carb cleaner (to see a bump in the idle speed) at the shaft ends - or safer - water spray (to see a dip in the idle). - Dave








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                Awful gas mileage 444-544

                No leaks on the carbs.







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