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TRANSMISSION 700 1991

Hello,

I have a 1991 740 T sedan. It has 187k. I went to pass someone yesterday and it kicked down and then back to 4th with a hard shift. Went to pass another car and it kicked down but then felt like it was slipping and would not shift back into the next gear (4th). I let off the gas and it did go back into 4th/od. Is the tranny done for? The kick down cable looked ok, I did not disconnect it. The trans seems to be operating fine outside of this. I have changed the fluid via the small drain plug on the pan, about 2 qts at a time, at various times since owning, last time about three months ago. Fluid level is good, first thing I checked when I got home. Transmission is a AW-71.

Thanks,
Mike








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    TRANSMISSION 700 1991

    Pan gasket.and new screen. Once the screen starts to clog, these symptoms start
    showing up. My AW71 in my 1989 745 turbo did the same thing. I've flushed my transmission with cheap stander brand ATF, ran it for awhile then flushed it out with Mobile 1 ATF. Really help these high mileage units. If you wait too long ,the transmission pump while howl and shifting will knock loudly.








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      TRANSMISSION 700 1991

      OK cool man, thanks. I have had the filter/gasket kit for two years now!!lol, I am afraid of the dam filler neck attached to the pan.I tried to remove the starter bolts holding the fill tube but no luck, do not want to snap them!I will get this pan off and change the filter.








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        1991 Volvo 740 Turbo Automatic Transmission - FAQ We Go? 700 1991

        Please read here. Yes, fluid flush and maybe screen clean. Yet watch that dipstick tube connection to the pan. Can be a bother or worse. Maybe drop the pan with the tube attached?

        https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionAuto.htm
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          1991 Volvo 740 Turbo Automatic Transmission - FAQ We Go? 700 1991

          I think I might cut the filler tube as described here:

          https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/TransmissionAuto.html#ATFluidNeedsChangingLateorPoorShiftQuality

          Read under the fill tube removal section, talks about cutting the fill tube.








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            1991 Volvo 740 Turbo Automatic Transmission - FAQ We Go? 700 1991

            You won't snap the starter bolts Their tight because they also hold the transmission to the engine. Clean the area spotless around the transmission pan before removing. Make sure when reattaching the fill tube. Place the starter bolts loose in the bracket to the starter. Tighten those bolts up after the Fill tube is fully inplace. Carefully wiggle it as you tighten the nut while pushing it into the flanged surface. When you get the tube to seat, back it off 1/2 turn, enough the pivot and tighten the starter bolts, then tighten back down the fill tube. Do Not over tighten this nut. Just seat it and snug it down. Too tight and the Big nut will damage the flared end. Clean the pan and add the gasket. Screw all the 10 mm bolt into the pan gasket just enough to hold them. This method will assure the gasket stays in place. Tighten them down evenly. The screen is held in place by several I think 8mm or 6mm bolts.Easy on these tightening, They will break if forced. I don't remember if they are all the same length, so keep an eye on their placement for the screen bolts so Careful when you drop down the spacer plate as more ATF fluid will come pouring out. Use a very small dot of loc-tite Blue on the screen bolts. Careful removing as there are two gaskets you cannot get unless it's a transmission rebuild kit. I've had my screen out several time when flushing out my 740 transmission. Previous owner never serviced the car so every time shifting started getting weird, I knew the screen was clogging. No problem now since all the funk has finally been flushed out. Mobile 1 was my final fill after several cleanings.








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              1991 Volvo 740 Turbo Automatic Transmission - FAQ We Go? 700 1991

              Welp I got the filter and gasket changed. The big B nut actually cam off easily.Screen and tranny pan were not to dirty at all. I put it all back together and filled it up, still doing the same thing. Going 60, punch it, drops down and goes, then does not shift back into 4th and kind of hangs up or just revs with no motion...slipping? But, I can drop it manually into 3rd and shift back to 4th no problem. Something with the kickdown cable?








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                1991 Volvo 740 Turbo Automatic Transmission - FAQ We Go? 700 1991

                The FAQ link does discuss kick down cable adjustment as well as the fourth gear solenoid and the manual button downshift to fourth

                I guess dropping the pan was not a useful notion. Though you now know the friction disks are not losing material at all.

                You've inspected the solenoid and wiring to it, usually undercar, as undercar conditions can deteriorate insulation after decades or less. Verify the electrics as the FAQ indicates including the OD relay.

                Else, you read about the Automatic overdrive and the kickdown cable at the FAQ:

                https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionAuto.htm



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                  1991 Volvo 740 Turbo Automatic Transmission - FAQ We Go? 700 1991

                  Agreed - consider trying to adjust the kickdown cable before diving into anything else. Easy job. One of the few easy repairs on a slushbox....:)

                  As Kitty suggested, test the the electronics of the OD relay. Then I would move onto the wiring between the shifter and the OD relay. Finally check the wiring to the OD solenoid paying particular attention to where might rub and short on the lip of the transmission tunnel. Lastly, check the wire’s condition where it connects to the solenoid.

                  I should also mention if it is a wiring issue or the solenoid itself then you most likely will have no OD at all.
                  --
                  Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....








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                    1991 Volvo 740 Turbo Automatic Transmission - FAQ We Go? 700 1991

                    Well I do have O/D still, and the button works fine on the shifter to turn O/D off (I did have to resolder the connections in the relay, but that was 2 years ago because the O/D button would come on / off as it felt like, working fine since . I am assuming the transmission cable is working good because it does downshift when passing at crusing speed. Just goes into a freespin mode...lol.I will look at any wiring/solenoid going to the tranny. Thanks for the replies!!!!








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                      1991 Volvo 740 Turbo Automatic Transmission - FAQ We Go? 700 1991

                      Check the wiring from the OD relay to shifter too. My 90 240’s wiring went from rubbing at the lip of the tranny tunnel. The wiring insulation cracks/breaks. That can cause intermittent or permanent shorts in the OD system.
                      --
                      Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....








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                    1991 Volvo 740 Turbo Automatic Transmission - FAQ We Go? 700 1991

                    Check to see if the kick-down cable is attached to the transmission. Pull on the cable, can you hear it clunk?

                    Dan








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                      1991 Volvo 740 Turbo Automatic Transmission - FAQ We Go? 700 1991

                      I can hear the valve moving when I move the transmission cable by hand. It looks like it is correctly adjusted as well.








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                        1991 Volvo 740 Turbo Automatic Transmission - FAQ We Go? 700 1991

                        "I can hear the valve moving when I move the transmission cable by hand."

                        I take that to mean you disconnected the cable from the throttle spindle to pull it out all the way and let it snap back. Otherwise you shouldn't hear much in the way of sounds unless it is badly misadjusted or the cable is failing.

                        To expand a bit on what's in the FAQ, the kickdown cable is attached to a spring loaded pawl in the kickdown chamber. With the cable installed on the throttle spindle (and the throttle linkage rod adequately adjusted), when the cable is plucked (lifted all the way and then allowed to snap back down) the spring loaded pawl drops down and may strike the bottom of the valve chamber and make a faint thunk/click sound. If there's grunge in the bottom of the kickdown valve chamber then you won't even hear that. If you've got the cable disconnected from the throttle spindle you may hear a noise when you rapidly pull it out to full extension and hear the sound of the pawl hitting top of travel. When properly adjusted, the pawl should stop just short of hitting the bottom of the chamber when released and you shouldn't hear anything. The only other sound I can imagine hearing is a worn cable making a slight scraping noise inside the cable sheath.

                        I've gone back for a quick look at your shifting symptoms. The kickdown cable could certainly be related.

                        First off, check to make sure the cable is properly seated in the throttle spindle. I've had symptoms very much like yours just because the cable had accidentally jumped over into the next slot during handling. This can occasionally happen when you've got a sticky/worn cable and when releasing the pedal the cable goes slack enough to jump over to the next slot.

                        Second, exercise the cable and check cable integrity as best you can. Make sure the cable is easily snapping back when released both from full extension and when just pulled out a little, and that the cable doesn't stick or change resistance when being slowly pulled out and slowly released. That would be a common sign of internal cable wear and the cable beginning to fail. Even if it runs in and out smoothly, the cable may be just starting to fail. That may actually agree with your symptoms. When you boot the pedal to the floor, the remaining strands in a badly worn or frayed cable can stretch, enough so to make a noticeable difference in subsequent kickdown behaviour. One day you'll boot it to the floor and the cable will simply snap -it makes for a very interesting driving experience of up and down shifting, or more specifically the lack thereof.

                        No matter what, your tranny is probably overdue for a good flush. I'd do that before continuing as it can affect so many things such as sticky valve balls, overdrive solenoid and the kickdown chamber. Unless the trans is horridly grungy through neglect, a thorough double flush at the trans cooler lines at the rad (fully described in the FAQ) may often be enough and is all I've bothered doing in the past twenty years. Flushing at the trans cooler lines is far easier and less messy than draining and removing the trans pan to wipe it clean and clean/replace the filter. It also avoids issues such as removing a stuck cooler line and dropping cross members. Volvo no longer suggests replacing the trans filter and screen at specified mileage intervals, it can usually be adequately kept clean through regular flushing and/or manually cleaned as needed.

                        Procedures for checking, adjusting and replacing the trans kickdown cable are thoroughly described in the FAQ.
                        --
                        Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now








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                      1991 Volvo 740 Turbo Automatic Transmission - FAQ We Go? 700 1991

                      So it should make a noise when I move it at the engine side? With the car on or off? I will try off first.








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                        1991 Volvo 740 Turbo Automatic Transmission - FAQ We Go? 700 1991

                        Thanks for the response. I will check the tranny cable out closer. I did not have to remove a cooler line or cross member to drop the pan, just the fill tube. I figured at 187k it was time for a filter change.

                        I will check out the FAQ on doing a flush. I also read about the check valve wearing down and allowing bad transmission performance. But I will start with the flush as suggested. Maybe it is just time for a new cable as well.







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