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RWD - trouble removing 1800 tranny

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trouble removing 1800 tranny 1800

I am restoring a 69 1800, the engine and 4 speed o/d are out of the car and I can't separate the tranny from the engine, tried to remove it along with the bellhousing, didn't work, and tranny alone, nothing is working, anyone run into the same problem?





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    trouble removing 1800 tranny 1800

    I had the same problem many years ago with a B18 in a '58 PV 444. The pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft had seized and the inner race welded itself to the input shaft.

    ALWAYS REPLACE the PILOT BEARING when doing a clutch job !!!!

    I was able to separate the trans by GENTLY prying the trans away from the bellhousing ( approx 1/8 -1/4 inch ) enough to place woodsplitting wedges into the gap. I placed the wedges 180 degrees apart, in line with the input shaft, and GENTLY tapped first one, then the one on the opposite side, until the trans came loose. It popped about 12 feet across the garage floor when it came loose, as the
    outer race of the bearing was held in the end of the crankshaft by a wire retaining ring, and the force of the wedges had pulled the inner race far enough that the balls came out from between the races.
    The next thing was to gently tap the outer race as far forward as possible using a drift punch, to allow vice grips to remove the severely damaged retaining wire from it's groove at the back of the crankshaft.
    I had to use a cold chisel ( didn't have a die grinder or other power tools at the time ) to remove the inner race from the input shaft, as it was firmly in place. After removing the inner race, I cleaned up the end of the input shaft with crocus ( emery ) cloth.



    The bearing is the same as one from a early mid 60's GM ( AC Delco ) alternator - once you have the bearing number, should be very easy to find, and not expensive.

    After re-assembly with a new clutch & bearing ( cheap insurance ! ) I drove the car with no issues for a couple of years 9 About 35-40 K miles ). After cracking a front lower control arm, and then having the Panhard bar break, I decided to sell the car to someone who would treat it more gently. I had fitted it with significantly wider wheels and tires from a Mustang, and enjoyed giving TR3s & MGs fits on a twisty road. Since the chassis had over 350K on it when I got it, I figured that it would not be safe to continue to drive it as hard as I would enjoy doing. Put the wheels and tires on a 63 122s, and drove it hard for several years. Later had a 142s that I used for towing our racing sidecar, and as a daily driver- put 43K on it in 7 months, before some idiot rear-ended me on the freeway, totalling the Volvo. I was able to drive it 17 miles to my home, although the trunk and rear quarters had been pushed forward to the rear axle - the decklid had popped open upon impact, and when lowered the rear edge was over 18 inches behind the taillights.....

    Now working on a '58 PV444 restomod.
    Hope the info about the trans helps !





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    trouble removing 1800 tranny 1800

    I would think the input shaft is frozen to the pilot bearing. I'd elevate the transmission end to get oil to seep down the input shaft through the clutch fork opening. Use your favorite product. I like straight ATF. You will still probably have to pry it apart but give the lubricate a few days to work. - Dave





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      trouble removing 1800 tranny 1800

      Thanks, I'll give that a try





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