Hi,

That reading seems correct to me.
I get those with a 92 degree centigrade range made in brass and copper by the Wahler brand.
I want to get as close to 200 degrees as possible.
Otherwise, the next step down is Seven degrees shorter!
The fuel management system can run the car just a tad richer, as if it’s still slightly cold, for proper combustion.
You will never see a CEL in the differences but a MPG number might show it.
I believe Borg Warner bought Wahler out a few years ago. I heard about this and I stocked up with the tried and true!

I like “similar” materials working together under heat!
Brass and copper has work longer for radiators even though there is a weight penalty. About seven pounds, if I remember correctly?
Aluminum is lighter and faster to conduct heat away but PLASTICS helped solve, to a point, the expansion of heat growth between core and tank.
It’s a lot cheaper than a pressed out aluminum tank too.
Some of Aluminum’s grades can get stressed more than others during deep draws of manufacturing.

Making the radiator completely one piece out of plastic is not possible with production injection molds.
3D metal Additive print manufacturing is still in its “infancy” structurally! Throw in the dynamics of the heating involved, forget a final product soon .... IMHO!
The thermostats are pretty well proven with time and true results. That is, until the bean $$$$ counters start walking around. I’m watching the Borg Warner’s corps!

I don’t know what brands IPD offers. The last three thermostats I purchased, all at one time, for my cars, I got from FPC.
The other major brand car parts stores still have to get educated on how not to be a little cheaper with inferior brands, just because there are some higher profit margins in it for themselves.
The crossover references are tainted with corporate greed. Imagine that!
They push lower temperature stats, since they fit into the higher quantity buying lots used among other cars.
The slit “o” ring seems, to me, to be a bit unusual in our year cars back then. It’s been flat paper gaskets in domestic vehicles.
I’m not up on the newest car techniques! Some have used or use “Squirt” a gasket!

I have always bought used cars every time so I have had bad luck with Calorics showing up in them. They have let me down by sticking open and one staying shut.
Luckily my wife was paying attention to the cluster, that day and at that moment as she got only a mile from the house. She immediately pulled over and shut it down! The exhaust manifold had a faint glow as soon as I lifted the hood.
Nothing else happened so I drove it back with my eyes pinned on the gauges. Apparently it sprung open, only late!

If you got a Wahler stat you might have noticed that they put the date of manufacture stamped right into the frame.
This got me sold on them to see 16 years of service. But like you, I got the boots to shaken when thinking about the gasket went that long too! That 1978 2.0 L red block has shocked me so much, in many ways! Probably nearly to 375K as the odometer has stopped twice.

The gauge Never varied to be above the top on a “N” upon start ups. It would only drop a little bit to strike horizontal after that. Just a very tiny bit of overshoot, I call it!

That was always normal, until the TCB garbage, made in theory to fake out the brainless, that don’t know more than how to turn the key!
It shows that you shouldn’t confuse some people with facts!
Maybe that explains some of what’s going on with the new cars and that thing with GM of dangle keys in the switch issue!

If the fuse cover is two inches short it must not clip into the bottom.
The twist button is the only thing holding it in place and the sides are guiding it for it to not to slip sideways.
On later model cars the fuses were moved in under the central console.
It should be from a 240 but the one you have might be off a 140. It may have been shorter for the lack of even more accessories.

The salvage yards might have one on a fresh arrival.
The most, I see are just laying in the floor, under other tossed parts of an interior. I have ignored them for the most part.
The decals inside change colors just to make them unique.
I guess for the collectors and judges to have to worry about it more than I ever will.

Phil