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I have a nearly failed ignition cylinder that I need to repair or replace so I'm looking for some information on removing the cylinder from a 1993 240.
Any sources to buy the mechanical part of the switch.
Has anyone used a locksmith?
Thanks
Dan
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If you have a 93 240 w auto trans you will need a lock assembly specific to that year. The automatic version has a wire cable from the shifter to the key assembly to operate the column lock.
It appears the assembly for a 93 manual shift is the same as the assemblies on the 91 - 92 240's manual or auto 240's.
Part numbers YMOS 71930 and 3530152 are on my 93 manual assembly and 91-92 manual or auto lock assembly's.
Dan
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Is there any earthly way you can drill out the cylinder retaining pins with the lock assembly still installed in the car?
It sucks the way Volvo installed the lock assembly on the steering column where you have to remove the column in order to slide the lock assembly off. In working on my 1800ES steering lock I found that some years were built like yours and some years the lock assembly is built in two pieces that “strap onto” the column so it can be removed with the column remaining in place. I wonder if you could find the two piece version somewhere that work on your 240. If so you could just cut yours off of the column and kiss it good bye.
--
Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)
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"I wonder if you could find the two piece version somewhere that work on your 240. If so you could just cut yours off of the column and kiss it good bye."
That may be the way to go. I have an old two piece version I can compare to the 91 version shown here: http://cleanflametrap.com/ign_sw.html
I'll check it out.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
"Perhaps we've just seen the extremes of a statistically invalid sample." - I. M. Incredulous
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Art
Thanks for the effort and pictures, it tells me what I need to do. Did you only have one pin? Mine appears to have two.
I wonder if I can dig them out with the column installed in the car?
Also the split mount on your 91 could be the way to go. I have not seen the split mount on ebay despite several sellers offering mounts for 91 - 92 240's. What is the part number on your 91 mount?
Dan
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Dan,
Mine had two pins. You can see them laying on the workbench in the pictures.
But I just looked at the two split (two piece) castings I have, from 83 and 84. Entirely different animals, fitting a 37.5mm column tube instead of the 43.5 tube in the 91. I mean different in angles, dimensions, and yes, they only had one pin.
Are you sure your 93 is a two-piece type? There's also the clamp that holds it to the dash.
The casting has a Volvo number 3530152 and Neiman number 2590.01.
Edit: I've looked at the parts fiche. It seems to me the parts are only available as kits, including the door locks, and the distinctions in the 88-93 fiche are among pre-airbag cars (up to 89) and between 90-92 and the 93 which includes the shifter lockout gizmo. There's no distinction for manual shift, as if the lock assembly is the same for both, but also no clue as to whether a 90-92 assembly would work on a manual shift 93.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
What's the use of happiness? It can't buy you money. - Henny Youngman
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Art
How thick is the case?
Dan
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Dan, the casting where the pins are is 3.5mm thick. The knurled pin is 3mm in diameter and 5.5mm in length.
I used a Dremel EZ Lock #456 metal cutting wheel to dig it out. I have little faith someone could do this from under the dash if over the age of maybe 30. If at all. Yet I understand getting it out of the airbag car is no easy or simple task. I'm newly impressed by the security these old Volvos had.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
My luck is so bad that if I bought a cemetery, people would stop dying. - Ed Furgol
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“...I was also thinking about sawing off the switch assembly and hide it under the dash. Or just using the electrical switch to start and stop the engine...”
One of you mentioned earlier that the lock assembly is somehow attached to the dash in addition to the steering column. If that’s the case, would this work?
Cut the assembly off of the column.
Remove it all from the car and repair the cylinder.
Cut off everything else that’s not required to attach it to the dash.
Reinstall it utilizing the aforementioned dash attachment.
Now it would “look” proper with the key slot in it the correct location. You just wouldn’t have steering wheel locking any longer - who cares?
Opinion: Once the whole thing is out on the work bench and the cylinder is extracted, you’d be surprised what you can repair for $0.00. I’ve done it on a couple of cars now. (On some of them you have to insert the key and turn it in order for the cylinder to slide out,)
Good luck!
--
Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)
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"One of you mentioned earlier that the lock assembly is somehow attached to the dash in addition to the steering column. If that’s the case, would this work?"
I think I mentioned the dash attachment. Actually it is the steering column that is attached to the dash support (the part that stays in the car when you remove the dash) but it is done through the lock casting. It is what supports the column so you don't have a "tilt wheel" by virtue of no attachment.
If you scroll through this, you'll see that removing the dash might be one way to get better access to the two pins holding the cylinder in:
http://cleanflametrap.com/dash.html
"Opinion: Once the whole thing is out on the work bench and the cylinder is extracted, you’d be surprised what you can repair for $0.00. I’ve done it on a couple of cars now. (On some of them you have to insert the key and turn it in order for the cylinder to slide out,)"
I'm confident there's a good chance the balky cylinder could be repaired, if opened. First, the cylinder has to be removed from the lock casting. Then the front of it needs to be removed, which will ruin the front's appearance, but could possibly be re-crimped for practical service. Unfortunately, it isn't just a matter of pushing a release with the key in place. I'd do it for the curiosity, but I have nothing but complete lock sets to work on.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Youth would be an ideal state if it came a little later in life. - Herbert Henry Asquith
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OK so given that photo you provided, here’s a real Mickey Mouse fix....
Butcher up the assembly so you can get it out and repair it.
Then drill two holes in the dash structure so that you can reinstall what’s left of the ignition switch with a small-ish muffler clamp (U-bolt or bent threaded rod). It’ll still look stock when done.
--
Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)
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That's what I'm looking for a Macgyver fix!
Dan
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posted by
someone claiming to be joe
on
Wed May 22 14:49 CST 2019 [ RELATED]
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Leave the key in the ignition lock, but cut it so that it's a barely visible stub. Get an old ignition switch (the easily removable electrical part)
and take it apart. You could solder wires onto the inside of the connector
prongs and get it wired up to some simple toggle switches while you have the old switch out of the car. Then just plug it back into the car connector and go.
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Volvo let us down on this one! I wonder how many have sent to the crusher because of the ignition cylinder.
A permanent fix will have to wait until after the 8 month summer is over!
Thanks
Dan
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I'm not sure how the car is being used, but if it were not my daily driver, I'd consider doing something else about safety or theft protection -- maybe using a spare key to lock the doors, and if the switch was still fairly visible, find some way to conceal it to keep a window from getting smashed.
That $79 ebay item might have its reason for existence -- just haven't heard many complaints about failed ignition locks on the boards.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Until I was thirteen, I thought my name was shut up. - Joe Namath
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It's not a daily anymore.
I was thinking about getting a $79 piece, taking it to a locksmith to rebuild the cylinder for installation later this year.
I was also thinking about sawing off the switch assembly and hide it under the dash. Or just using the electrical switch to start and stop the engine.
Trying to keep it as a good runner in case one of my daughters have major issues with one of the other 240's I maintain.
May just park it and cancel the insurance for the next 6 months or so.
Thanks for all your help Art you are a lifesaver!
Still need to do a hail mary cleaning of the cylinder.
Dan
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Art
After a close look at the part, mine is one piece after all.
You used a dremel tool, what was the cutting wheel?
Unfortunately it is 95+ for the next week so I will be limited to early AM work.
My next step will be to get a can of carb cleaner and dump half a can into the lock to see if I can dislodge any stray dirt or key shavings.
I have the key in it now but if I take it out it takes a good bit off work to get it in again.
I could run the car by leaving the key in the ignition but it would be real easy to steal that way.
Before I try to take the core out I should probably talk to a locksmith and see if they have any tricks or experience with 240's.
Thanks again
Dan
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I am having a hard time finding a replacement lock cylinder.
I need to find out if I can remove the old one to inspect and clean it out.
I may need to try the start button option. Will the toggle switch hidden out of sight give me some security?
Thanks
Dan
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posted by
someone claiming to be joe
on
Mon May 20 06:28 CST 2019 [ RELATED]
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Used lock cylinders are available on Ebay. When I had to replace the lock on
an '89 240, I ended up buying a used steering column complete with the lock
from a junkyard. The lock is mounted in a collar that slides on steering column. Unfortunately the steering column has to be removed to replace the lock. I could not find and easy way to replace it.
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My idea may be deemed controversial but instead of replacing that lock cylinder you could install a push start button system. Slight modification to wiring. One toggle switch to simulate KPII and one push button switch for KPIII. Even my 940 is considered old car, staying original is hard to be these days. Just a suggestion.
Amarin.
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the ignition cylinder looks more daunting than it really is.
if you have back or neck flexibility problems get someone else to do it for you.
i have done this job with the front seat out and in place. with experience i now leave it in place.
1 disconnect the neg battery cable
2. remove the cluster on the dashboard
3 find a thick piece of carpet or something to lay on the floor and cushion your back.
4. find a strong hand held non hot light source you can move around
5. you will want to use a large blade screwdriver to lift up somewhat and out of the way as much as you can the thick harness which lays on top and obscures the cylinder (the clock spring air bag wire is within this harness and it may pull on the connector at the clock spring so once done push inward the orange wire that connects into the clockspring..just a precaution)
6. the job is much easier to do from under the dashboard looking up towards the cylinder NOT from the inside the opening where the cluster was.
7. remove connector to cylinder, a large hard plastic round connector with umpteen slots.. just like the bulb failure sensor connector
8. find a small flat blade screw driver and with a good illumination proceed to unscrew both screws. they are not torqued much if at all they don't need to be
install is reverse. install can be annoying as the small screws may drop down until you one started. the second one is easier.
i would not bother repairing a bad one. buy a new one aftermarket or volvo. your call. big difference in price
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