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Hi,
I would like to say, yes, because the rotor needs only a “tickle” of current, to create a magnetic field. This will as it “turns,” it will then self-feed itself.
I have a hesitation in this answer being absolutely true though.
I suspect that after so much speed of the alternator turning it might do it on its own through a slight back-feed or leakage maybe from from the exciter diodes?
A voltmeter can verify if this happens, but if every time, is the bigger question!
The regulation part is controlled inside by the voltage regulator watching the whole system voltage in relation to ground.
A current draw, I.E. headlights, the voltage drops by only tenths of a volt and the internal regulator picks up on that!
It then, adds a bit more current, to the rotor through a set of carbon brushes as in the beginning from exciter circuit.
The increased magnetic field moves through the stator windings and out through diodes into the system including the battery.
It actually becomes a self running package or termed the total “Charging System!”
After that point the cluster circuit is more for indication purposes to only show you that absolutely nothing is coming out of the alternator. This is why they are termed an “idiot light” as it shows you nothing in between.
A dash mounted voltmeter is better because the needle or numbers will wiggle or vary from their normal running amounts ahead of time before it becomes a real problem.
It’s another way of knowing your cars blood pressure!
Like us, they are showing age and need monitoring! (:-). Really every car should have one.
I personally have not tried to run a car without an instrument cluster connected, so this explains that I’m at a loss, to give you a real good answer!
I suspect that a person could put a resistance between the B+ and the D+ as a current limiter and do the same thing but I do not know how much?
The resistance might or Maybe be a small light bulb, with pigtailed clips would work?
The light would be on all the time except when the car was running and having an output. Just like the idiot lights stops burning since it loses having a flow to ground through the regulator.
Adding a switch down there would eliminate a drain but would require using your Memory to turn it off over any long period of time.
Maybe the wizardry of Art Benstein can chime-in on this, as I bet he knows or has pictures!
I haven’t seen anything like that on his web site Cleanflametrap.com.
He is good at finding work-arounds!
Post back what you do!
Edit: Whoops I see he has already!
Good Morning Art!
Phil
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