I would like to replace my front calipers, when shopping for replacements how do i know if they are compatible with my currently installed stock vented rotors (link below) intended for Girling ABS calipers. thanks

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-brake-kit-front-240-260-quietcast-vbbrakekit8

Hi,

I guess you will have to trust them, to know, that the year car has the vented rotors on them are not.

On these upper years of the 240’s, I think they all came with vented rotors. The rears only do not!

Not sure if ABS has anything special going on inside the calipers, from that, of the non-ABS.
I think the master cylinders are the same unless you back to those without the fluid level sensors.
The ABS Actuation block is in the middle with the pulse driven bypass valves.

PRESSURE is PRESSURE but squeezing and squashed are different! (:)
Squashed is done with the brake pedal! Isn’t it? (:)

Phil

The same vented rotors work for ABS or non-ABS and as Phil mentioned solid front rotors left the scene long ago. The difference between ABS and Non is in the front calipers--there being only one hydraulic brake line to each front caliper for ABS cars. The ABS car's brake system is split only between front and rear. -- Dave

Hi David,

I did not know about there only being one line going in down there and I have two ABS cars now.
A 1992 and a 1993.

It’s only been a couple years owning them, so, I have not had to replace pads or anything about them yet.

I’m looking into doing my normal, every two years or so routine, of sucking out the reservoir and refilling it with fresh fluid to prolong the years somewhat from having to bleed the whole system, when I do change the brake pads.

Thanks! A big thumbs up to you!

Phil

Having owned a 90 240 (non-ABS car) for 11 years and worked on friends 92 and 93’s, the good news is that ABS 240’s are easier to bleed than the non-ABS cars. I found those front calipers on the non-ABS cars were a nightmare to bleed for DIYers..:)
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

With a pressure bleeder it may at least to circuits go arounds in the bleed order to get the air bubbles out!

Yet twice now I grabbed DOT 3 and not DOT 4 fluid! Remember the DOT 4 fluid! D'oh!

Scrambled Eggs and Salsa with Earl Grey Tea boyyyyy ...
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After using:
- the pedal many times in the 1980s and ruining one MC by pressing too far
- using the one way EZ bleeders thingies that do not prevent air from sucking back into the caliper through the threaded caliper to bleeder screw bore on the pedal release
- Coordinating time with a 'helper' to close the bleeder with 8mm spanner near the pedal down stroke end (before pressing the piston to far through the MC bore ...

I'll use the pressure bleeder method such as the Motive Power or like pressure brake fluid bleeder.

We say no. We say no to dark or black brake fluid in RWD Volvo.

No need to bench bleed the empty or new reservoir and MC. Well, I've not had to since using different brake fluid pressure bleeders. (The spare tire as air pressure source was sort of silly when it goes flat! As we did on a VW Supper Beatle! [Continue to want a Supper Beatle, yet air cooled VW is now so $$$$.])

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1662538/220/240/260/280/new_pads_resurface_rotors_hows_brake_fluid_black.html


A reprise and repast of the post here from some months ago in January 2019, I guess?

I posted this on two or three of the RWD Volvo 240, 740, 940 and 240 fan club, and 240 Wagon Lover's club and now can't find it.

Say no to the nihilism that is facebook.

Why we need to bring them folks here so all is not lost (as on facebook) and easily found through a search. Maybe I can search again.

Say yes to the existentialism that is the Brickboard!

My 1992 Volvo 240 ABS and M47 II manual transmission ...



Saw the leak. Wrapped in napkins. No spill there. Brake fluid will ruin painted finish.









Right rear brake caliper. Goes (as you sit in Volvo) LR, RR, RF, LF for ABS 240, 700, 900 ... See the FAQ for brake and ABS Brakes.





If bleeder nipple cap is rotted or missing, get new. A MUST so the bleeder nipple does not corrode over time and seize with the caliper threaded bore.





Bleeder cap remove. All is shiny and well. 8 mm line wrench with 8 mm open and box end. Clear vinyl tubing (3/8" OD?) and a clear quart glass jar (Schnuck's brand hot sauce is best. I love hot sauce. Great with buttermilk!). New clear fluid appears the power bleeder pushes out old fluid with new. I like to tap the break pedal 3 or so time enough to feel resistance yet no more than 1/3 travel.





Detail.





Better view? Old Sony DSC-S30 camera from 1999. Had the EV set at 2.0, so why the washed out images.





After you close the bleeder nipple, use brake parts cleaner (dunno if chlorinated or non-chlorinated is best). Also, spay out the inside of the nipple to clear away any remaining brake fluid. If not, brake fluid 3, 4, 5.1 is hygroscopic, drawing water in, becoming more corrosive, and can rust the inside of the bleeder nipple causing it to seize in the threaded bore in the brake caliper cast carbon steel material.



Some may spray a light water displacing preparation in the bore to further prevent corrosion. Something that won't ruin the synthetic rubber bleeder nipple cap.





Glass bottle with the old. New in the brake system. New fluid in the bottle is towards the top as is lighter. Older fluid has some water in it and so sinks. Flush exchange was one quart, exactly, for the 1992 240 ABS. All 1992 have ABS in North America and maybe worldwide?



Use the 91% Isopropyl to rinse the brake fluid from the power bleeder.





Beauty pass.





Everything Gruit, nearly. My 1991 Kittys Grey Volvo 240.

W/ Taxoplasma Abundant and Incidental Naps. The irreverence.





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