|
BS, or good idea?
Depends,
_ is it the original motor ? If it is felts around bushings are surely dry by now even if it has not been used much.
- if that motor has been replaced how many years does it have and how much mileage has the car done with this second motor ?
- if the motor has been replaced, is this a Volvo motor ? If it is not, the pictures showing a cut view of the motor inside does not apply.
- lubricated bushings can last twice the life of brush / commutator on the rotor. I know because I did lubricate the motor on my 1982 and it lasted over 30 years and more than 230 k miles. It had perfectly good bushings when it quit due to commutator and brushes wear. These two seem well matched on wear.
- and it is possible to mess with the motor specially if you break a drill bit.
- do you plan to keep the car a long time ?
- you will need special long stem sharp point drill, at least 6 inch long about 3/16 dia. to start the hole and finish with long 1/8 bit. A hole saw to cut a large opening in the plastic heater box, syringe, small lamp that you introduce inside, special tongs if you are connecting holes with small size polythene tubing. That is for future easy lubrication. I posted pictures in BrickPix.
I am the one who has done the motor holes drilling. Dec 2014, I wrote some text and posted pictures. That ended up being a mess since I did not follow the proper method regarding pixel size.
Sorry about that.
Now, if you look at the pictures you can see that the left side is easier to drill. That is hole B picture 6. and it end up right in the felt doughnut
There is no way sewing machine oil can reach the left bushing by wetting the shaft because there is a fiber thrust washer in the way.
Right side drilling is much harder since the drill bit must be pushed to the left. That is because the surface is at an angle. That is why the long sharp point bit is necessary. See hole D in picture 6 and hole D in picture 10.
I have had good experience with my two 240 jobs.
The first one I worked on was the 1991 with low mileage, less than 50k miles I think. That was about 5 years ago. It started that squealing noise when cold. That means one bushing is fudged on the motor shaft. I really was looking at not removing that motor just for lubrication. I knew because I had done 2 heater motor replacements on a 1981 I bought in 1983.
On the 1991 I only regret I did not put extensions tubing for futures lubrication. I don't use that car much.
The second job was on the 1982, my daily driver, that had previously been lubricated in 1998 by removing the motor and put it back.
About 4 years ago I did the drilling and it went very good. Squealing was gone... But a year after brushes and commutators were finished although bushings were in very good shape, little play on the shaft. Heater motor was about 32 years old with 240k miles. I put the rotor cut view of failed commutator on BrickPix.
Some thing to think about, there is need for the proper tools and experience in delicate procedures.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
|
