I am trying to track down a short on this recently purchased Volvo 960.

If I connect a voltmeter between the post and Lead A as I have identified it I get a voltage drop of twelve volts and I am interpreting this as a short.

The other two leads do not produce this voltage drop.

I started by removing and separating the three leads that connect to the positive terminal of the battery.

I am trying to attach a photo of the three leads but regardless, it is the lead that runs along the underside of the passenger side fender before exiting the engine compartment through a large grommet on the firewall, still on the passenger side of the car.

It has the letters VB stamped on the plastic cover of the lead. It is not the main connector but is a fairly large wire connector.

The third wire is small in diameter and is not shorting.

Can anyone tell me where Lead A goes and to what it is attached?

"If I connect a voltmeter between the post and Lead A as I have identified it I get a voltage drop of twelve volts and I am interpreting this as a short."

Stop right there.

Repeat the test with an ordinary automotive (12V) light bulb.

If the bulb lights, you probably do have a short circuit worth hunting. If it doesn't, you need to repeat the test with an ammeter, not a voltmeter. Circuits to retain memory in the engine management computer and radio, in addition to the clock, draw enough current normally to indicate 5 to 10 milliamps on an ammeter.

Using a voltmeter as you did was the method taught in the 60's to mechanics for finding a parasitic load draining a battery. Since then, electronics in our cars have forced us to be updated in our methods of sleuthing for short circuits.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Brickboard members are the most likeable, smartest, and best-looking people on the internet. [Citation needed]

When I followed your instruction and checked with a circuit tester light, the light went on briefly and then faded to black. I tried this about four times and each time the result was the same. I take this to mean that I don't have a short and am hooking up the new battery for regular service. Thanks again, Art.

Yep, I agree.

And just a picayune-sounding note about test lights. They come in many varieties these days, with the biggest variable the amount of current they draw. It is best when speaking of them to identify exactly what sort of lamp is used in it so the amount of current to light the lamp can be known.


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Art Benstein near Baltimore

We childproofed our homes, but they are still getting in.

Thank you Art! I was trained in electronics when I joined the air force in 1955 and I guess I still live there. I will give it another go around with a circuit tester today to see what I get.

Bob