Does anyone know if the two large hoses going to the Idle Control valve are available? One goes to the intake manifold and the other to the bellows just before the throttle body on the 2.1 LH system.

They show up on drawings of course but not with part numbers. Haven't tried a Volvo dealer yet.

Hi,

Nice to hear that you have repaired the wiring harness!

Two things can affect the running at idle besides "it having a good tune up" and that can be the throttle switch. The ECU needs to know that the throttle plate is "fully" closed up and it wants to stay in idle mode. You may want to check out both to rule out any malfunction playing with the ECU.

The next thing is it needs to have a proper temperature thermostat. If the engine runs itself up to a proper temperature quickly. These first LH 1.0 systems originally got set up on a leaner mixture because early red blocks ran 92C thermostats.
This higher temperature got lost, IMO, than 87 Centigrade thermostats getting shoved onto too many reference books because they sell for a few dollars less for big chain stores!


I personally like the Wahler thermostat that holds themselves closed up tighter until the 92 Centigrade temperature is actually reached.
The jiggle valves that located upwards helps this to happen. Combined in the fact that the whole body of the stat being made of like materials also helps.
If you shop carefully they are reasonable competive for the extra quality as assurance to work reliably.


The Wahler come stamped with a date of production. I took one out that was still working from my 1978 that was 17 years old and one from a recently acquired car that was 13 years old but had a low number working temperature value. 87C puts the needle only one-third up!

I have noticed that Volvo gets their name stamped on the Calorstat models lately and that are also furnished in the 87 and 92 degrees ranges. But that stamping doesn't change my mind on quality.
Putting brand names on things can be a gimmick.
Example: It's like if I could make tires for you, I would be willing to put your name on the tire, in order to sell a great quantity of a tires, that I'm already making, in order to get your business. No reason to make my tires better, but if I know I have made a few with slight defects, you "might" not get those.

I have had three Calorstats fail in used cars I have picked up. Two failed open and one failed "to open."
Luckily, I had an alert wife that caught the temperature gage up on my '86 wagon only a mile from the house. It's scary when you open the hood and see the exhaust manifold glowing red.
Fortunately, no engine damage!

Check things out in relation to each other.

Phil

The throttle switch clicks off and on where it should. Will check all again after I replace the injectors.

I did put a Wahler thermostat in that I had on the shelf. Don't remember now if it was an 87 or 92 but it does stay closed and the engine warms up quickly. Gauge needle is at 9 o'clock and stays there.

The car came from Texas and when I got it the engine was running cold.

Hi,

Have you ever changed out the fuel pressure regulator?

The 1984 uses a slightly different mounting onto the fuel rail system than later models so in that respect they, IMO, could have a higher failure rate.
This item will effect all aspects of mixture especially upon acceleration.


I know this is a very low mileage car (73K) but the FPR is more affected by its age with gasoline in it.
Also, ou may want to check the hose behind the AMM to the throttle for any gaps under the clamps or tiny pin holes down inside the volutes. If they are small you can used liquid electrical tape to fill them in. Just get the surfaces clean from engine oil vapor first.

Just thought I would also ask, have you ever changed out the intake manifold gasket?
Again, I think I saw a picture, from our favorite buddy Art Benstein, that he showed a bad gasket from one of his cars! Guess it could have been fron his old favorite car red car as well!

I would have mentioned it earlier but this car has low a mileage!
If it is a true mileage that engine is just “broken in” but is a long, long ways from being worn in!
(:-)

Phil

The FPR is a possibility. I will read up on that. Plan to depressurize it with my Mighty Vac for the injector swap.

There are no running issues at all once the temp gauge starts to move. Once off idle there is smooth power delivery and plenty of it (for a 2.3 NA car)

I had a lower mileage one a few years ago (34K) that was an endless chase down of vacuum leaks including the intake manifold gasket. Those vacuum leaks exhibited themselves by causing a too high idle that I couldn't tame until it was all sealed up.

This car just has a little roughness in the idle and runs lean until warmed up. Been too cold to work on it but after I get the new injectors in I'll go through the set-up again and re-check suspect areas for leaks.

Hi,

They last a very long time unless they got soaked in oils!

Why do you need them?

You may have to go junkyard shopping for the LH 1.0 - 2.0 systems, that’s limited to 1983 up.
Those of even the later years of 2.2-2.4 may just cross over and under (-: pun).
This you will have to compare side by side if you have the old ones.

The piping stayed very close to the same as so with the intake manifolds.
The IAC valves changed internally and along with electrical connections.
The aluminum connecting bodies were casted to be very similar lengths but I think the diameters are the same all around.

Happy hunting

Phil

I removed the upper one that connects to the intake manifold to gain better access to install an IPD flame trap relocation kit and replace the FI temp sensor. (to correct a lean condition when cold)

The upper hose has a crack where it fits over the IAC and although it's mostly below the clamping area I thought it would be prudent to replace it and the lower one. (haven't had the other hose off)

No running issues, just don't like old, hardened hoses especially when vacuum related.

Hi,

That’s good to do to rule out erratic idle or stalling complaints.

When you say you had a lean running condition related to the fuel injection that is a good place to start by checking for the proper resistance at the ECU.
There is a certain pin to get that reading on and it will check the wiring to and from there while you are at it.
The engine wiring harness on this year model goes bad with insulation rot and many of the owners have to be rebuilt or replaced to fix a few of the problems it creates. My 1984 had been changed prior to me purchasing it. Art persuaded me to check it out back then. I later had a bad wire in the harness on my 1986 wagon, but got away with just pulling that wire through and out with a new wire attached to fix it.

If you are having a problem with a too lean of a start up on cold mornings there is a modification you can add on to the ECU to give it a slightly richer mixture.

I read this on a post from Art Benstein, sometime ago, that he did it to his car.
I believe he added or changed out a resistor or a diode in or onto a circuit connected in someway with the ECU.
You might check his site http.cleanflametrap.com for it. He has lots of articles.
He might chime in on this thread, if he catches it. He is far more ahead of many on this board when it comes to the electrics.

Don’t know if he still has the car either. He has shown pictures of one going bye bye on a trailer.
He is like me he has had many different Volvo cars over the years. He still has a fleet for his family he takes care of.

Anyway, it’s something to think about and watch for, if you still have an issue with being lean.

Phil

Hey Phil,

Here's another response meant to unconfuse, if that's possible.

First, the LH thing. LH1.0 was a California solution for 1982 on a B21F. It was called simply "LH-Jetronic" as the tech writers did not have foreknowledge of the succeeding versions Bosch would make in this era of emissions and fuel efficiency mandates.

In '83, with the B23F we got LH2.0, though it was called LH-Jetronic II then, not knowing it would develop with sub-versions. This was what we have in the B-23F for 1983 and 1984. There was no "LH2.1" in a 240; that was a turbo 7-series which got LH2.1 despite what someone at IPD thinks.

240s were built with LH2.2 fuel between 85 and 88 inclusively, then in 89 LH2.4 through 93. The LH3.1 appeared for manual transmission cars, and I am not sure, but believe these only got built for 90, 91, and 92 MY. No LH3.1 in a 93 or an 89.

"I believe he added or changed out a resistor or a diode in or onto a circuit connected in someway with the ECU."

You saw this in a response (click here) made on an unrelated issue to Gwen for the purpose of giving the LH2.0 electrical diagram. This mod, it turns out, was also done in a TSB by Volvo, by wiring a jumper between the starter and the ECT signal. It is not for running lean or warming up, only for starting. Sort of a cold-start improvement.

I tried my hand at helping Boxcar Man, finding same results as Eric, where the lower hose seems to be plentiful 1326110 in Google results but the upper hose 1336080 gets NLA mentioned in search results. If anyone can find one for OP it will be Eric. I also ran into the same sort of fun looking it up, noting an omission on the engine model application in the parts page title, but then inside the listing (group 28 page 625 on my fiche) illustration callout items 19 and 20 have both B21F and B23F parts litsed.

All in all, my sunburned red 84 B23F was my favorite car, and yes, you did see a photo of it on the rollback headed for Valhalla at 375K. Rust. I'd rather remember it like this.




--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

During January 2018, the average contiguous U.S. temperature was 32.2°F, 2.1°F above the 20th century average

Thanks Art for the "unconfusion".

You helped back in August when I brought this car home. At that time it was running SO lean that even when warmed up it would pop when trying to accelerate. When I replaced the thermostat and O2 sensor it became "acceptable".
After many hours and replacing obviously worn parts, (the engine harness being the worst) it is a very good driving car. In the current cold weather though it can't be driven off on the first start of the day until it warms up some.

The idle is not as smooth as it should be. I haven't touched the AMM mixture adjustment in a while as it didn't seem to be responding electrically through the test pigtail. I'm not doing additional testing until I replace the injectors next week.
-Dan

84 242 DL

Thanks Phil,
I did read something about adding resistance somewhere in the system. Maybe it was for the temp sensor?

The first thing I did when I got this car was to replace the frayed and patched engine harness with a new one I bought from Dave Barton. It has a recent (before me) AMM. I also replaced the ECU with a remanufactured unit and kept the original as back-up.

I also replaced the O2 sensor (3 wire) and the thermostat to make sure it gets up to temperature.
Still takes some time on very cold mornings to get past the lean condition (way better than when I first got the car) but once warmed up it's fine.

Idle could be smoother. Have some 4 port injectors on the way to me. This is a 72K mile car that has had a lot of garage time. I haven't pulled the injectors yet but I doubt they have a good spray pattern 35 years on.

Interesting point,... this morning was the first dead cold start after replacing the temp sensor. For the first minute the idle was steady and strong at 800 RPM but then it dropped down again and exhibited the roughness from being too lean. Briefly thought it was fully solved.
-Dan

?


--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

Passive-aggressive response?

No.

I erased my post because I realized it was inaccurate.

For some reason I assumed you had a B21, but shortly after I posted, it came to me you had to have a B23.

I had looked up the wrong part numbers and after finding the correct part numbers, I discovered that only 1 of the 2 idle air hoses is still available.

--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

Eric,
Yes, car is 1984 242 DL. Got speedo housing and seal from you guys.

Upper one? (I hope I hope) (Lou Costello, nobody home)