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My 1992 240 sedan (300k+) has a serious kerchunk in the rear when I shift. Due to back problems I can't crawl under the car myself to look.
Last time I had the oil changed the station wrote that I needed "upper radius arm bushings" replaced (1.5 hours?) but they don't want to do that work. I got the impression from him that there were at least two that needed to be replaced... one near each side of the rear axle? I also had the impression he was saying they connected the read end to the chassis.
When I look at my Bentley manual I can't find anything with that exact name, nor when looking on the Internet. So... is it actually or more commonly called something else?
Bentley shows a rear end diagram on 650-1. Could they mean the bushings between the "track rod" and the "body cross member"?
My idea is to buy the bushings online then find somewhere to have them replaced.
Thanks,
Keith Ostertag
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Finally, after almost two months of waiting and confusion I have gotten all four of my rear torque arm bushings replaced, by my original shop.
Evidently, they don't trust just any after-market bushings (saying they've had trouble with the quality in the past), and were waiting to make a large bulk order to Europe. Unfortunately, I was not able to get the brand name.
They charged me $48 for the bushings (poly) plus $112 for the labor.
That seems like a good total price to me for that job, although they charged me $150 to replace the O2 sensor which seems a bit high.
It was frustrating to have to wait this long, but the two other places in town I made inquiries to convinced me to stick with my regular Volvo guys (Motorwerks in New Albany, IN) despite the long wait.
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Thx for posting up solution. Yup - $160 for the job is actually a bargain price from a shop in my opinion.
--
82 242-6.2L; '17 Mazda3; '16 Crosstrek
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If you're on the East Coast FCP Euro can hook you up.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/240/?utf8=%E2%9C%93&year=1990&m=142&e=914&keywords=torque
Stay away from the ProParts stuff, it's junk. SuperPro for poly if you go that route.
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Hi Keith,
By your symptoms I think they are referring to torque arms. There are two, though the Fig.1 exploded view on p650-1 only shows the left side, connecting the rear axle with the chassis.
There are different options for replacement, from Genuine OE through polyurethane inserts, so if in your place, I'd consult the folks you have in mind to do the work, as the method of removing the old and installing the new is dependent on the choice. Also, an inspection by the shop doing the replacement might reveal the trailing arm bushings need renewing as well, or as you mention, the track rod bushings (often called Panhard). Better than guessing.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
A jumper cable walks into a bar. The bartender says, "I'll serve you, but don't start anything."
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Hi Art-
I was mistaken, evidently the problem is at the front end (driver side), not the rear end.
I spoke to the mechanic on the phone again, and he maintains that the proper name is "upper radius arm bushing", but that he has not been able to source that part through any of his normal channels (as if to suggest it is not manufactured anymore?). I had no idea bushings could be hard to find.
He says there might be some "performance" poly bushing available on the Internet but he's too busy to go searching for it.
In Bentley on page 610-1 fig 2 and 610-2 Fig. 3 there's are diagrams of the front wheel suspension, but I don't see anything called an "upper radius arm bushing".
I guess at some point I will need to go back to him (the only Volvo mechanic locally) with Bentley and see if he can point to what the problem is...
Any ideas of where I/he can look for sourcing hard-to-find bushings like this?
I'm hesitant to take it to an mechanic who is not a Volvo specialist: the mechanic I'm talking to is a highly respected Volvo mechanic.
Thanks,
Keith Ostertag
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Hi Keith,
A clunk in the rear end caused by a bushing in the front? I suppose, like most mysteries, the answer is in fixing communication and translation.
Who says he's the "highly respected Volvo mechanic?" Sounds stubborn to me from your story. Yes, at some point you may have to grab a book and get his attention for a minute or two if he wants your business. Maybe he doesn't need it. That's a fact of life where cars have become too old.
The only bushings in the front I know of are not upper anything, but those for the lower control arm (the only control arm) and the stabilizer bar with its end link. Maybe the upper bushing on the end link?? Nothing exotic or hard to find, I hope, though I may be corrected at any time as vendors run out of stuff.
Yes, you must like him, so take the Bentley and a box of donuts with you.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
"I don't belong to an organized political party. I'm a Democrat." —Will Rogers
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Hi Art-
OK, another misunderstanding :-(
I spoke with my mechanics shop partner today, and hopefully he has straightened me out...
NOT the front end- I was mislead by the guys who rotated my tires recently, who don't know Volvos from chestnuts...
It IS the rear end, driver side, the upper torque arm bushing that needs replaced, where it mates with the mounting bracket. NOT the one mating the Panhard (track rod) to the body crossmember. Shown on Bentley page 650-1 diagram.
(I don't know why he at first used that word "radius".)
He is saying that Volvo stopped making them a few years ago, and he hasn't been able to source them.
Thanks!
Keith
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Hi,
Not a problem if you know the “lingo.” Isn’t it always!
https://www.amazon.com/Volvo-Rear-Torque-Bushing-Urethane/dp/B075ZSL4DJ/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1547163230&sr=1-4&keywords=torque+rod+bushing
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6054/109353-torque-rod-bushing-set-poly
There are differences in cost and also the colors. Blue, orange or black? It all gets dirty!
I can’t say what the difference is in polyethylenes are but the amount of “green” that you have to spend changes the colors apparently! Prices vary a lot for what I don’t know?
I don’t know who goes around looking under the cars and cares for their color. There is little you can see of them anyways.
IMHO the colors and the urethane is for the younger groups of “creeper crawlers!”
You can find the OEM black rubber ones for about the same individually but you have to know they are from a good supplier of good rubber on the inside.
There are several manufacturers like Lemforder and Merle that at sometime or other made them for Volvo in years back. But the standards or high water marks are getting erased in relation to the 240. That is unless, these bushings are currently being used in other applications on cars or in any industry.
China and India have gotten a grip on passing through knock offs and it’s a consumer beware in all cases when it comes to possible quality substitutions.
I’m Not sure the polyethylenes are included as of yet.
The bushings on the body end of the Trailing Arms I have never changed.
I consider them low wear items as the rear of the Trailing arm moves more than the front end does.
Likewise I have never changed torque rods bushings either.
I never have messed with the panhard rod either.
This doesn’t mean they cannot rot as they are a membrane.
I check them by twisting and looking for play or slop!
Maybe, I have just driven nicer or my luck is about to run out? (-:)
The polyethylene makes the ride a little stiffer and on the torque rods you might hear a tiny bit more road noise transmitted.
Disclaimer: This is what I have only read about it!
On the TABS that go under the main axle or differential. They are a lot bigger!
The TABS I have changed on one car because of a clunk when turning into a driveway approach and it causes the rear to twist up more on one side.
I was probably working my way towards a clunk when shifting soon.
The torque rods keep the rear end from rotating under power or slowing down.
The panhard rod locates the rear end left to right under the car and create over stiffness when the body rolls in turns.
The Trailing arms hold onto the whole mess up, down and sideways with those long arms.
Those people that pointed it out to you must have seen something rather obvious or you gave them a very good reason to look around.
Tire changer people have trouble sometimes looking past the ends of their impact drivers.
I had a hubcap to come off before I drove home from getting new tires years ago!
I shopped at a very reputable tire place and the shop manager replaced it.
He complained to me that the center locking plate was $40 by itself from Volvo.
I shrugged my shoulders and just looked at him, like so! I know that they have to have liability insurance to cover mishaps.
I later found that the outer hubcap piece that he didn’t get from Volvo was made thinner than the others on my car. Don’t know where he got it but probably was a knock off!
From now on, I do all that work of mounting, balancing and rotations. I buy Michelin’s tires from Costco, as a pick up only and save about $70+ per across the six cars I have.
This will make up for any mistakes that I can make!
My electronic “Sun” balancer is from the mid 80’s and cost me $300 from E Bay in Los Angeles. A brother-in-law delivered it the 800 miles when he brought his trailer up to stay for three weeks!
All I had to make was a steel centering rim cone that was missing with its accessories.
Fortunately, the electronics were still working just fine but I would have tackled that for the experience. I still need experience, in my last frontier of electronics, unfortunately!
From looking at the boards they used some tough goodies on them. Nice Commercial equipment!
Anyway, the bushings just press out & in of a end ring. They are bolted onto the car like shock absorbers.
Those rear end TABS are a lot tighter story.
Let us know what style you went with and any labor cost as that would be interesting to factor into our brains for future helpful posts!
Phil
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The torque arms have to come out, the old bushings have to be pressed out, new ones pressed in. IPD in Portland OR has them. You’d be foolish not to replace all 4 on a vehicle of that age/mileage. https://www.ipdusa.com/prodtype.asp?CAT_ID=1187&numRecordPosition=0&categorycrumbs=987,1059,1389
IPD also has an adjustable torque rod with new poly bushings - unbolt the old ones, bolt in the new ones. No press involved.
--
82 242-6.2L; '17 Mazda3; '16 Crosstrek
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Thank you Michael, that is really helpful! Now I can show that IPD page to my mechanic and discuss options.
Keith
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Here's the replacement torque rod -- may be cheaper w/labor. at the axle - 2 nuts/bolts; at the chassis - 2 bolts. Done.
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4918/109772-adjustable-torque-rods-200-series-models
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Rock Auto - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1098556&cc=1287031&jsn=376
Can't understand how your mechanic couldn't find this stuff.....
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My guess is that he normally uses only wholesale distributors, so doesn't use IPD, Rock, or FCP Euro which are marketed for consumers/end users.
Thanks for your help, now I can show him these other sources.
Keith
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