A friend bought a car with a drip from around the trans pan. Looked like it was seeping down from the connectors for the cooling likes (to the radiator).

Replaced the o-rings but also pulled the pan as the gasket seemed squished out.

Looked like a new cork gasket w/ RTV blue. Had been overtightened until the gasket was cut in half most of the way around by the ridge in the center of the pan face a la "It leaks; bolts must be loose".

I've never - not once, ever - had success with a cork transmission-pan gasket on a 240. eEuro still sells them I think.

I've had better luck with RTV and no gasket.

Reminder that the later AW transmission pan-bolt torque is about 50 in-lbs.

(2 pics in gallery)


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240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio

I've had better luck with cork gaskets. The rubber ones always split on me. Personally I think 50lb. on the trans pan bolts is too much.

50 in-lbs is too much? The book said 40-55 I think. I'll look again.
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240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio

"Personally I think 50lb. on the trans pan bolts is too much." -- that spec is in INCH/lbs -- about all the torque you can apply with your wrist using a 1/4 drive ratchet. - Dave

Note that he said 50 INCH POUNDS. Not FOOT POUNDS.
50 in-lbs is only a little more that 4 ft-lbs.

I've always been ok with cork gaskets. But I never add RTV to a cork gasket.

I've had best luck with the hard fiber trans-pan gaskets.

That's a good point about not using RTV on cork gaskets.

When I 1st started seeing it (mid-1970s), I found it helped on eg. US-made V8 valve-cover gaskets. Older V8s - eg. Chev small-block - had 4 bolts and the valve covers would be warped from years of overtightening. There'd often be a seep. A thin coating of RTV on both sides of the cork fixed that. The key was "thin".
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240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio