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Power windows 200 1990

Hi, My 240 wagon has lost most of the power window function. I guess the relay is working, since I can still use the front passenger door switch, but all other switches don't work. The print shows that the red wire from the relay to the master switch console provides power to all but the passenger door switch, so it must have an open in it somewhere. When I run a hot jumper to the master switches, they work fine. Where is the relay located, and how do I trace that main red wire and associated connectors?
Thanks, Chris








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Power windows 200 1990

Chris, did this start after working on your brake light switch?

The relay, I think you'll find, is behind the center vents. Easier to go for the common wear spot, where the red wire goes through the door jamb. If you noticed the windows were getting slow to close, or if, perchance, you noticed your passenger could close her window faster than you could from the driver's door, then you witnessed the strands inside the insulation breaking over time as the wire is bent back and forth in the door jamb.

Relay:



There are some good "prints" in this post. https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1645555/220/240/260/280/electric_window_malfunction.html
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

The older I get the faster I was.








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Power windows 200 1990

Art,

Is the solution then to replace the wiring? What gauge wire is used, and how many strands?

I have this issue in my 91, and some in my 90.

Thanks in advance,

Matt








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Power windows 200 1990

Hi Art, Yes, this problem just showed up recently. After failing the other week, it began working again, but yesterday went out again. I never have passengers that have used the window, so no data on that. I'll look at the door hinge area first. What's the best way to expose that bundle? Can the rubber boot be pulled out, or is it accessed better from the body or door?
Thanks.








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Power windows 200 1990

You can dislodge the boot as it snaps into the door and jamb. I guess you may be able to complete a diagnosis through that opening, but to get enough access to do a decent repair, you'll need to pull the door card and the fuse panel both. Diagnosis is simple; you pull on the ends until it is obvious there's nothing but insulation stretching at the break. You can then pull a new wire through, joining it to the old where there's no stress.

Last time I was doing anything similar it was the red wire for the left rear:




--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"When I grew up, it was duck and cover! Now it's ... Tuck in them elbows, boys and girls!" - Phil







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