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Hello, i am a pretty new to Volvo, in fact,thats my first one. I'm still not sure if that was the right decision, but i plan to keep it and use it as my summer car.
First the specs.
Year: 1984
VW D24 Diesel, 4 Speed Manual with OD, M46 afaik.
Well, thought after i bought the car i do something good and replace two bulbs which are not working (Top right corner light) and OD light is always dark. Well during so, i snapped the speedometer cable from the the instrument cluster (yea, stupid, i know). Later i figured i have to loose the cable from two mounts inside the engine compartment to get it loose, and i've read that people unplug it by removing the carpet under the steering wheel.
So, a few questions.
I know how to pull the instrument cluster (remove left and right side panels, and 4 screws).
But what if i want to pull the whole thing out of the car for pictures sake? Do i have to remove the whole steering wheel or is it enough to remove the top cover-panel behind the wheel?(2 visible screws).
What have i done damage to anyway? I have a black plastic things sticking in back of the odometer. When i googled for intrumentcluster the thingy is always missing on the pics. Is that a part of the speedocable or the odometer?
So as seen in the image. Do i need a new speedocable? Can i find the plastic attachment somewhere on the internet? or did i break my odometer?
And if i need a new speedocable, which exactly i need? I heard there are many lengths.
Hope you can help me
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Well, i finally measured the speedocable. Its 2meters long. Part number would be 1215546. Well, i ordered the part now.
I still got problems with the instrument dash. I don't know how to remove the black part where the speedocable locks in place. I can wiggle it left and right a bit, but it doesn't really do anything helpful. And i planned to remove the whole dash, but i cant remove the big round black connector with most cables attached to it. I pulled quite some force on the connector, but right now i am afraid of breaking the circuit board if i pull it with even more force.
Do you guys have any tips on removing the big round black connector?
And ofc the speedometer attachment i still have to pull out. Any tips on that?
Thanks in advance
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If original, the cable attachment to the speedo incorporates an anti-tamper "lock" which must be broken to allow the cable end to twist off the speedo. A screwdriver blade will do the job.
If you have difficulty doing this from under the dash you can pull the cluster rearward to gain access from the top--certainly no need to pull the entire dash--if that's what you mean and the wire connectors can be left in place. -- Dave
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I called the genuine classic volvo dealer guy today and i don't know the specs, but thats the part number: 1235805
As long as its a VDO odo it __should__ fit. It should arrive within a few days. I'll let you guys know.
And the 2meters long odo cable is for later cars.
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Hi,
Welcome to the Volvo 240 world and of course the Brickboard forum.
There is another site that has lots of information on working on your car.
It is operated by one of our member/posters Art Benstein
This link: http://cleanflametrap.com/tempFaker.html.
It is about speedometers but of a later years than yours.
Other, than showing you how it comes out, it has nothing to do with your More mechanical driven speedometer.
His pictures are spread out through his web site will show you how the cluster is held in place under other articles.
Mostly just imagine that the covers on each side are clipped into place to give you access to four screws that go through ears that you see at the very front of the cluster.
After removing them you will have to pull the housing out.
It will be a rather tight fit as clips, across the top, are pushing it back into place. You will have to tilt and wiggle the whole housing to get enough play to allow it to pop downward and come out from under them. The bottom of the cluster will lead out a wee bit more than the top at first.
It might be easier if someone has been in there before you.
Remember you have wires and a stiff cable attached. It’s all in close quarters back there but workable.
As far as releasing the cable, it’s been a long time since I have been into my 1984’s dash.
As it remember, you can slip the cluster forward as shown and get you hand back behind it.
The cable, as far as I know, is not clamped down but fits tightly through grommets that are in the firewall.
Here is where my memory is vague!
The head of the cable that is attaching the upper housing of that cable, to the cluster, has a plastic clip that gets squeezed or sprung loose and rotated to release it from a protruding stem made of aluminum that has a groove for it to slip off of. I don’t remember it being a threaded collar.
You will fiddle with it and suddenly it comes off. It’s then, you will remark to yourself “Oh that’s how it works!”
Be aware of where the wires go back by taking pictures especially on any single wires that might be hanging loose that go onto individual spades terminals.
On the newer cars, there is a land mine wire, of one loose wire that blows up the electronic speedometer heads! This, You don’t have to worry about.
Many of the others wires are in connector blocks, that are actual plugs and only mate one way. These are the easy ones.
Hope this helps to get you started!
Others may help where I couldn’t.
Phil
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Well thanks Phil. I did that already, i pulled it towards me, few days earlier when i tried to replace the bulbs, so i just have to write down where goes which cable. unplug them all, and slide the whole cluster towards the center of the car then.
I uploaded a pic of my speedocable. The cable still has the spring on it (not visible on pic) but no plastic collar. Guess i broke it. Can someone confirm?
Edit: Picture of speedocable
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Interesting! I haven't seen a post on a 240 Diesel for a long time now. You've got a fairly rare car, I believe, still running. The last one I "saw" was a driven by a Swiss immigrant who fueled it with veggie oil he processed himself.
Your pic is a little dark, but I know how difficult it is to hold a camera into a confined space and still give it the lighting it needs. There was a tamper-evident collar on the speedometer cable originally, but rarer still for anyone to have them in place. That's why you aren't finding it in the pictures on the web.
Fortunately for me, those cars with the locking collar broken, had a set in the cable which kept it inserted into the speedometer straight and firm without need of even the separate ring which seats the cable to the meter.
After some squinting at microfiche parts lists, I come up with 1215546 for a 2-meter cable "white marking" but before investing (roughly $20) I'd suggest getting a second opinion. The application appears to me to be LHD 1984 DSL M46, and to me it makes sense given it is the longest one, but see if you get a consensus first.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Two secrets to keep your marriage brimming
1. Whenever you're wrong, admit it, 2. Whenever you're right, shut up.
-Patrick Murra
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Well, first, thank you both mates. Your answers made me quite happy. Because i think i can work on the car again for now.
I looked up the cable you provided.
http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/drive-train/transmission/tachometer-drive/tachometer-cable/1016159/
http://www.volvoonderdelen.com/140142144/Gearboxpower-train/Speedometer-cable-140164Overdrive-1972-240-M41M46-200cm-For--600299/
Both sites say its not for diesel engines. :/
However, from the first link the connector looks quite familiar, but the cable is not the one
So, right now i am searching for a M46 with D24 diesel engine speedo cable.
Right now i come up with those
VDO
https://www.ersatzteile-wug.de/de/elektrik/instrumente/tachowellen/tachowelle-240-1986d24-m46.html
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It's been a while, but I picked up a speedo cable off-the-shelf from a local car parts store.
Basically it is just the cable (not accompanying sheath) with one squared end which is cut to length and a square tip is crimped on the cut end. Around $10.
Google "speedometer cable" for options.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.
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It is important to choose a cable that is twisted same as original.
Back in the 1970s when I had a 144 1972 autoparts were selling both types.
I remember the cable twisted reversed of the original one did not last long.
Also a good practice for people that use a car equiped with cable odometer and live in area where temperature is below freezing point:
never use reverse when leaving, instead backup the car in the driveway.
I know that odometer cables are much more resistant on forward than reverse. Water like to seep inside the sheat and cause breakage it there is not enough lubricant.
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In a worst case scenario you can do what I did to connect the Oldsmobile automatic in my '63 Olds V8 powered '76 245 to the Volvo's speedo cable. I ran the Oldsmobile transmission cable up to the fire wall and cut the sheath leaving a few inches of cable sticking out. I then cut the Volvo cable in the same way and attached the cable sheaths to the firewall facing each other with an inch in between. A short length of vacuum hose then linked the two cables with a split larger hose placed over the works for "protection". In 10 years and 150k miles of use I had to replace the small hose link twice when the speedo stopped operating. -- Dave
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Strange is the comment in the second link "not for diesel" (200cm 1215546) where Volvo's p/n listing specifies diesel application.
And in your third link, the 151cm 1235805 is one of those listed in Volvo's p/n manual for right hand drive -- makes sense to me, its half a meter shorter.
And again strange, your search is from three providers in Europe when you list your location as US in your Brickboard profile, as my search "volvo 1215546" brought back several sellers in the US.
My RPR catalog (p.93) shows the 1215546 applicable to the 200 Diesel D24 81-85 M46, which they call 4-speed with overdrive.
Still, keep checking. If you see a post from planetman, you have your answer and I'll bet a good place to order it.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
I used to be a banker, but then I lost interest.
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Well strange, on the registration form here i put my country of origin in germany. Well, thats fixed now. Sorry for the confusion. Oh and i do have a LH vehicle. Tommorow i'll call that genuine parts store, perhaps they can put an end to all that confusion. I'll let you guys know the outcome.
And i figure now. The link i added is indeed for a RH vehicle.
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Mon Nov 26 18:03 CST 2018 [ RELATED]
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So you are in the US.
try these guys for a used cable. Atlanta
http://www.voluparts.com/
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I think DE doesn't stand for Delaware in this case.
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