Hey Volvo Sages,

Does anyone have any experience reattaching the black rocker panel moulding strip that runs from the front to the rear wheel wells? I could use some help.

I removed the moulding strips on both sides this past July in order to manage some rust on the front fender doglegs. Once the rust repair was completed I purchased 26 new moulding clips (13 per side) as the old clips broke apart during removal. The clips appear to be one-time use anyway.

The new clips pushed on easily enough and I set by gently tapping in the center pin flush with the clip. Now, I can't quite seem to get the moulding strip to grab
even one clip to get it started. There appears to be very little clearance for the moulding strip to grab on to. Any advice or tips on how to get this done would be welcome. Thanks.

Hi,

You're right. The clips are a one-time-use, but unless you are willing and able to reset the molding to bear it's original geometry, it is also may be a one-time-use.

The stainless U channel you see on the back of the molding becomes distorted both on installation and on removal in proportion to the amount of violence it's seen.

I lay the molding along the car just below it's intended position and put a 1/2" strip of masking tape on the outer rubber surface precisely at each hole position. These are the only places you need to worry about.

To adjust the gap between the arms of the U, I squeeze the molding, channel side up, in a good square jaw bench vice. Squeeze on the square part of the rubber, not on the outside edges. Check each hole point with a new clip slid into the channel to see if it's too tight or can be easily removed. I prop up one end of the molding with an adjustable stand.

There are 2 small flanges at the end of the U arms pointing towards each other. They become bent inward on installation or maybe end up bent outward if they've been pulled away from the clip. The best tool I've found to orient these flanges perpendicular to the U arms is the ViseGrip flat jawed sheet metal clamp.

The clips I've bought on Ebay can be brittle when cold and may shatter when tapped in. I've not had any problems if they're at least 80 degrees. I apply a heat gun or hair dryer before tapping. Yours may be better.

I prefer a rubber mallet and strike at about a 10 degree angle upward from the horizontal. The object is to hit the rubber at two places simultaneously. If you strike only horizontally on the fat part, it tends to produce a roll on the molding.

To get the molding factory tight is not fast or easy, but if the rubber on the inside edges compresses at preciously the moment the clips grab, you'll have it.

For a more utilitarian fix I often just repair the rust around the holes and put in 5/16" nylon hole plugs sealed with black aviation gasket. A coat of rocker guard followed by a spray of grey paint and I'm done. Not stock, I understand, but it looks fine to me and is much less prone to corrosion.

Good luck
Peter

maplebones, Great detailed explanation on how to approach this challenge. I appreciate the clear substantive ideas to work with. Re-attaching the moulding requires careful prep work, adjustment, warmer conditions and patience. All clips are in position and will plug the holes for the winter. Unless we get another 50 degree plus day yet this year, I'll likely have to wait till spring. I'll report back on this at that time. Meanwhile, take care and Thank you.

I had success with the rubber mallet, too. Before you re-attach, I would consider
spraying some rust treatment product into the holes first. It is available with a special nozzle on a wand for treating just such a place. Just be sure to place something under to catch the excess that drips out of the weep holes. In case you are wondering, here is a picture of what it looks like inside the rocker panel.

Good idea. Eastwood has an internal frame coating product with a small attachment to treat internal spaces.
I was fortunate to have a small section of surface rust on the outer rocker panel.

Just a note of interest related to your suggestion: A few years ago I lifted up the carpet up at the front door openings and removed the round plugs to gain access to the interior rocker panel. I used an inspection camera from Harbor Freight to have a look at the condition of the internal rocker panel. I discovered
some leaves and debris which I vacuumed out with a homemade series of progressively smaller hoses to fit into the opening. Fortunately there was no rust present anywhere inside.

Did you buy oem clips or aftermarket ones?

I tried both kinds and the aftermarket clips are too small to hold. Somewhere I read a suggestion that the metal inner channel needed to be squeezed slightly in order to grab the clips.

Buying oem clips might require a second mortgage, but they are better than the replacements.

Tsomer, I purchased the genuine Volvo clips with fit in mind. I think that we all have had mixed results at times with aftermarket parts. I wanted to eliminate the uncertainty of that variable.

I have noticed that the metal channel is slightly wider than the clip along the entire length. It has an even width along the inner side with no irregularities. I cannot conceptualize how the moulding can hold on so tightly when applied.

Sounds like you're doing it right. I just did this a couple weeks ago, and the only tool I took to the task was a rubber mallet. The clips were cheap from an ebay seller.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

I had no Monet to buy Degas to make the Van Gogh.

Thanks for your quick response and assurance Art. I'll just keep at it and pull the rubber mallet out. I might have been too gentle in my initial approach not wanting to bust the genuine Volvo clips from FCP Euro @ $2.26 per clip.