If you do not answer questions, some people may not join in.

The board is supposed to be Volvo owners helping each other with their knowledge and experiences - the door is supposed to swing both ways - in other words, too many people ask questions, expect answers, but do not contribute.

What have you done so far?

Simple question.

Simple answer. No.


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Art Benstein near Baltimore

He who obtains has little. He who scatters has much. -Lao Tzu

Why are you testing the switch?

Your car had a problem with this switch?

A replacement from the junkyard?

A static test may not be enough.

You should use 12 volts and look for voltage drop.

Test all connections for resistance, wiggle the key around.

Make sure the spring works.

How much does a new switch cost?

How much would a failure on the road cost? - after testing, you should know how to hot wire it if it fails.

Make a jumper for the main ignition and figure how to turn the starter - I think that your car may have a point to do this for testing.

I tested mine when I was straightening out wiring for my most recent engine swap. Used a 9V battery and a test light. Put voltage “in” via the lead that feeds it; then checked voltage out with 1) key insertion; 2) turn to “on” or “run”; 3) turn to start — verify I had voltage at the wire color/switch plug number my schematic said I should. Memory (questionable) - blue wire was 12v “run” and blue/yellow was 12v on “start”. Mine’s an 82
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82 242-6.2L; '17 Mazda3; '16 Crosstrek