Anybody seen one with a hole in the side?

My old Nissens rad had the sensor hole in the back of the radiator (by the tranny line) but this new Genuine Volvo radiator has it in the SIDE of it.

All this, after two FCP employees insisted that the radiator came with the plug already installed. Not only is it not installed, it is not even in the box. So my car is sitting apart in the drive way.

Also, I dont really see how I can safety wire this thing with the sensor plug on the side. I am half considering returning this otherwise nice quality radiator for a cheaper Nissens one which at least I can safety wire.


(I really dont understand the logic of not having a plug that cannot be securely screwed in, but that is another gripe.)

Anybody have one of these with the sensor hole in the side? Any suggestions? Is it essential that I safety wire this? What do you all recommend?

Thank you all!

When I last replace my radiator, I discovered it did not come with the grommet. I reused the old grommet and jut used plastic tie wraps around it as an added measure to make sure it did not blow out.

Been fine for 8 years.
--
Paul NW Indiana '90 745 turbo 145 K

You were saying??

Dear U.S. Diver,

Hope you're well. Call a Volvo service department, give them the part number on the box (or on the rad iteself) and ask if the temp sensor plug and grommet: (a) are (or are not) supplied with the radiator and (b) if the temp sensor opening in the radiator side-tank should face the passenger-side fender or whether the temp sensor opening should face the firewall (as it does on Nissens radiators).

The rad shipped to you could have been mis-boxed or mislabeled. You may have been shipped a rad that looks like it is for a 940, but is for another model.

By "wiring this thing" I presume you mean using brass or copper wire to secure the black plastic plug, that goes in the side-tank hole, where - on some models - a temp sensor should be installed.

If so, it could be hard to secure the plug. I don't know if there's clearance to thread some heavy-duty nylon fishing line between the radiator fins (front-to-back), and across the plug's top. I'm pretty sure that nylon fishing line won't damage the rad. I fear that wire - threaded between the rad's fins - could do damage (e.g., bi-metallic corrosion that causes premature rad failure), so I wouldn't use wire.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

What part number did you order?

The correct radiator will have a hole, but it should be in the same spot as your old radiator.

I hate this set up and Volvo has been using it for a long time. It's always seemed to me to be a ready made problem waiting to happen.

Nissens has updated their 240/700 radiators and got rid of the rubber grommet and instead now has a threaded bung. The radiators also come with a a sensor.

Unfortunately it appears Nissens isn't doing that with the radiator you need.

FYI, use a long zip tie or multiple zip ties to hold the plug or sensor in place and install it before you install the radiator.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

Thanks. The radiator is Volvo parts number 8603905. Fcp insists it is correct. If you know otherwise, please let me know.

With the hole on side, I don’t even know from where I could safety wire it. However, didn’t the new cars come with no safety wiring? Thanks

Dear U.S. Diver,

Hope you're well. I presume the Volvo radiator has plastic side-tanks, as does the Nissens rad shown here: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-radiator-740-940-non-turbo .

To secure the temp sensor plug, in the Nissens rad shown, loop thin brass wire:
(a) over the front face of the side-tank's rear-most fin (the fin closest to the front of the engine), (b) through the slot in the plug's head, which should be inserted so the slot is parallel with the rad's side-edge; and (c) around the base of the nipple, to which attaches the automatic transmission coolant pipe. Use a pliers to twist the brass wire ends until snug. That will secure the plug. This manner of securing the plug has served for several years, with no problem.

On the Volvo-supplied radiator, I understand that the plug hole is in the side-tank's side, i.e., that the plug hole faces the driver's side fender, rather than towards the engine (as it does on the Nissens rad). To secure the side-facing plug, a braided nylon fishing line (say, 50 pound test), should be run through the finned radiator core, at the end closest to the side-tank.

There's enough room for braided nylon fishing line to pass from front to back of the finned core. Do this before installing the radiator. Insert the fishing line in the space between the first fin in one of the horizontal rows of aluminum cooling fins and the side tank, e.g.,|•/\/\/\/\/\/\/. The "dot" shows where the fishing line should go. The fishing line can then be brought around to the top of the plug and there knotted securely.

I'd not use wire in this position, for fear that wire might damage the rad. Nylon fishing line is too soft to damage the rad core's aluminum fins, unless huge tension is put on the fishing line. There's no need: a snug fit with a few knots should secure the plug.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Thanks, Spook.

By "fin" are you referring to one of the two black plastic fins alongside of the overflow nipple at the top of the tank, yes?

Thanks.

Dear U.S. Diver,

Hope you're well. No. I wrote: "There's enough room for braided nylon fishing line to pass from front to back of the finned core. Do this before installing the radiator. Insert the fishing line in the space between the first fin in one of the horizontal rows of aluminum cooling fins and the side tank, e.g.,|•/\/\/\/\/\/\/. The "dot" shows where the fishing line should go. The fishing line can then be brought around to the top of the plug and there knotted securely."

I specifically used "finned core" and "aluminum cooling fins" to make clear that the fishing line cannot be looped over the side-tank's top fin, which is made of black plastic.

The "diagram" using keyboard symbols, represents one row of "accordion" format aluminum fins. By placing the fishing line between the first aluminum fin and the side-tank, the fishing line should not damage the fin and perhaps cause premature radiator failure.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Thanks, Spook. I will not be using the side mounted sensor radiator; I am currently awaiting FCP's shipment of the more familiar rear mounted design. Therefore, I intended to use the brass wire method you set forth below:

"To secure the temp sensor plug, in the Nissens rad shown, loop thin brass wire:
(a) over the front face of the side-tank's rear-most fin (the fin closest to the front of the engine), (b) through the slot in the plug's head, which should be inserted so the slot is parallel with the rad's side-edge; and (c) around the base of the nipple, to which attaches the automatic transmission coolant pipe. Use a pliers to twist the brass wire ends until snug. That will secure the plug. This manner of securing the plug has served for several years, with no problem."

My question is: is this "rear-most fin" the plastic fin by the overflow nipple in the tank? Thanks.

Dear U.S. Diver,

Hope you're well. I think you're right to use the Nissens radiator, rather than the Volvo unit. The side-facing temp sensor plug hole in the Volvo unit complicates the securing of the plug, that goes in the temp sensor's opening, when no temp sensor is needed.

The radiator nipple - to which is attached a hose that goes to the coolant overflow tank - is between two black plastic fins on the top, passenger-side of the radiator.

The black plastic radiator passenger-side top corner fin - around which brass wire can be placed - is on the rear-facing side of the radiator, i.e., the side closest to the engine compartment.

The other black plastic radiator passenger-side top corner radiator fin is on the front-facing side of the radiator and so is closer to the chrome-colored plastic grille, mounted in front of the radiator, between the headlights.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Closing the loop on this repair:

After many phone calls, FCP sent out an additional TWO radiators, that, like the first one, both had Sensor holes in the side. It was sort of a nightmare. Anyway, in one of the radiator boxes they also included the requested grommet and plug.

It was not quite as easy to seat the plug in the side of the radiator, but I was able to use a wooden block, dish soap and a C clamp to do so.

Once installed, I used a zip tie around one of the crossmember bolts to safety wire the plug.

The genuine Volvo radiator is a little more robust than the Nissens one. Just don't believe the parts guys who tell you that the plug is already installed -- in fact, it is not even in the box.

Question: Does anybody take cores anymore?

Or do we just throw the old one in the trash?

Thanks, all!

Dear U.S. Diver,

Hope you're well. Thank you for the follow-up.

I recycle the aluminum radiator core and the in-radiator copper automatic transmission fluid cooler (a double-wall, hollow core cylinder).

You can remove the black plastic side tanks by prying-up on the tabs, that secure the tanks to the core.

The aluminum core has no value other than as scrap, which can be melted-down and re-used.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

That is the right part number, so you might have gotten a misboxed radiator.

All of the pictures I have found for a 8603905 radiator have the hole facing the engine.

From what I can tell, the side mounted sensors were for diesels and 6 cylinder Volvos and they use a a metal retaining bracket.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502